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Old 04-16-2003, 11:00 PM   #1
XXL
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Raised bed floor

Next, I'm going to do a 11 or 12 gauge bed floor with 5 bead rolls in it, then I can squirt the whole thing with a spray-in bed liner.
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Old 04-16-2003, 11:02 PM   #2
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and...
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Old 04-16-2003, 11:34 PM   #3
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Kennith - keep me posted on this please. I need to do something with mine and not sure what that is. I've already started raising the floor but not sure what to finish it in. Is that floor frame made with? 2x2?
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Old 04-16-2003, 11:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by ProSt68Trk
Kennith - keep me posted on this please. I need to do something with mine and not sure what that is. I've already started raising the floor but not sure what to finish it in. Is that floor frame made with? 2x2?
Yeah, mine is 2x2. It gives me just the right clearance so when it's dumped on the ground the rearend clears. I had a pdf I made of the plans I drew up, but I can't find it. Basically, it's 5 equispaced bead rolls that run almost the length of the sheetmetal, stopping a couple of inches from each end. Right now I'm trying to find a place to have it made... a friend of a friend knows somebody who knows somebody who does metal fab... so I'm waiting to hear back from him this weekend. We'll see.

Oh, and you need a plex floor so people can appreciate all that rear suspension work!

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Old 04-17-2003, 10:55 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by XXL


Yeah, mine is 2x2. It gives me just the right clearance so when it's dumped on the ground the rearend clears. I had a pdf I made of the plans I drew up, but I can't find it. Basically, it's 5 equispaced bead rolls
Are these bead rolls similar to what I've done with my firewall?

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Originally posted by XXL
Oh, and you need a plex floor so people can appreciate all that rear suspension work!

Kenneth
Dude, I first need to decide if I'm gonna keep the narrowed rear or replace it with something more "streetable"(probably)....oh and of course intsall the bags!
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Old 04-17-2003, 11:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by ProSt68Trk

Are these bead rolls similar to what I've done with my firewall?
Yeah. And I found the plan. The dims aren't finalized, but they're close.
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Old 04-17-2003, 12:33 PM   #7
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That's going to be cool. How thick will the spray in bedliner be? You don't think that it will hide the bead rolls do you?
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Old 04-17-2003, 12:49 PM   #8
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Looking at his plan, the rolls are going to be 1" wide - not sure how tall. I would think they would still show. I guess there going to be there to stiff'n up the panel as well as for looks.
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Old 04-17-2003, 03:38 PM   #9
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Standard thickness bedliner will allow the bead rolls to show fine.It shows the raised ridges in the new beds so it should just follow the contours.
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Old 04-17-2003, 05:40 PM   #10
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what brand liner are you going with? Nortons is good stuff
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Old 04-17-2003, 07:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy70C-10
That's going to be cool. How thick will the spray in bedliner be? You don't think that it will hide the bead rolls do you?
As ProSt68Trk mentioned, the ribs should be visible as they're going to be 1" wide x ?? tall (I'm guessing 0.5" if it's a true half-round tool). As for liner thickness, I'll leave that to the shop that does the job... whatever is "standard."


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what brand liner are you going with? Nortons is good stuff
I haven't gotten that far yet. There are a handful of them now-- Rhino, Line-X, etc. Basically, when I get the point of needing the liner sprayed in, I'll contact several and get their pitches on why theirs is the best thing since sliced bread, get prices, and go from there.

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Old 04-17-2003, 07:39 PM   #12
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looks like you have plenty of room in there to work on the truck..heh
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Old 04-18-2003, 01:00 PM   #13
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sup kenneth, looking good on the progress. any info on the tailgate latches etc?
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Old 04-18-2003, 01:13 PM   #14
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Originally posted by jay-dawg
sup kenneth, looking good on the progress. any info on the tailgate latches etc?
Uh oh, did I owe you latch info? I'm usually pretty good at following through on such things...

Latches are like the ones here. There's a tech article on it here.

Once I get the bed floor done, I can start on the bed cover. It will be a hard cover that latches in a similar fashion as the tailgate latches work... except that the release mechanism will be hidden under the roll of the bed side lip. That way there's no apparent way to get into the bed-- just reach under the lip and pop the top, then reach inside and pop the tailgate... voila.

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Old 04-18-2003, 01:15 PM   #15
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Looking forward to seeing finished pics.
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Old 04-18-2003, 01:21 PM   #16
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You going to make the hard cover out of aluminum? That's one nice thing about step sides - you can buy sheets of metal and such that fit in one piece.
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Old 04-18-2003, 01:25 PM   #17
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I seen a step side the other day that had polished ALUM. floor plate in the bottom of the bed, and the sides were sprayed with bed liner, man, it looked good
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Old 04-18-2003, 05:38 PM   #18
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What guage are the 2X2's? I really like that idea, that is really right up my alley. I don't however want to build something that is either heavy like a pig, or too thin that will smash. I guess you could make the top panel out of Stainless...
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Old 04-18-2003, 05:43 PM   #19
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1/4" polished ALUM. diamond floor plate, it will not be too heavy and it looks bad ass
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Old 04-18-2003, 05:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by ChopTop
What guage are the 2X2's? I really like that idea, that is really right up my alley. I don't however want to build something that is either heavy like a pig, or too thin that will smash. I guess you could make the top panel out of Stainless...
I think the 2x2's were 12 gauge. The finished product definitely will be lighter than the stock wood was... but I'm not necessarily optimizing for weight. As it is now, I can do any dastardly deed I want on it and it's rock solid.

As for the bed cover, I haven't really thought too hard on it other than that I was picturing a square tube aluminum frame with a couple of cross beams, and then skinned with either aluminum or fiberglass. I don't need to be able to stand on it... I just need it to be rigid (as opposed to the vinyl ones that tend to flap in the wind) and I need it to appear to have no "connectors" (like the snaps, etc., you usually see on vinyl ones). The finish will either be a very light pebble texture then body color paint or a good marine vinyl if I can find a matching color. Ideally it could be ultra-smooth and painted but with such a large flat area it might be impossible to get it smooth enough for high-gloss to look good.

Kenneth
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Old 04-18-2003, 09:44 PM   #21
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you must have a hell of a bead roller to do 12 gauge ..i've only played with small bead rollers and anything 18 gauge or over is almost impossible
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Old 04-19-2003, 03:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by mooneyes4b
you must have a hell of a bead roller to do 12 gauge ..i've only played with small bead rollers and anything 18 gauge or over is almost impossible
Actually that's sort of hanging me up on this right now . I'm still trying to find somebody who can roll them. Any idea what gauge a stock bed floor is? Maybe 14? It might be that I'm trying to go with too thick of a piece of steel for my bed floor.

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Old 04-19-2003, 11:26 PM   #23
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I know I've seen shops bend metal to match the factory "ribs" in the newer bed floors - maybe thats another option to look at...?
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