Cant bleed brakes

[krazy_texan]

ok i am at a loss here i have exhausted all options possible. And yes i have done numerous searches on this forum and on the net and cant come up with a single way to do this i can not for the life of me figure out how to bleed these brakes. I have tried the vacuum pumps i have tried the old fashioned way, and i have tried making the homemade pressure bleeder my problem with it is that i can not get it to seal on top of the master cylinder and i have tried makeing numerous types of caps for it. So please for the life of me someone help me out throw out your options or opinions or what have you cause i am at a loss right now and now that i am trying to park my car for the crappy season i am really needing my truck.

[shawno72]

Take it to Midas. They should have to correct cap for their pressure bleeder.

[Sick5]

Originally Posted by shawno72

Take it to Midas. They should have to correct cap for their pressure bleeder.

like shawn told me you can pump the MC and crack the lines open on the MC to let the rest of the air out..


i just did my disc conversion and im also having issue bleeding my brakes. so.. im watching this thread closely

[absintheisfun]

Originally Posted by Sick5

like shawn told me you can pump the MC and crack the lines open on the MC to let the rest of the air out..

I would most definitely NOT recommend this! When the plunger is pushed (apply the brakes) it pushes out whatever is in the reservoir. When the plunger is returned, it pulls whatever is in the lines. If there are no lines or cracked lines, the master will suck back in air!

[Sick5]

Originally Posted by absintheisfun

I would most definitely NOT recommend this! When the plunger is pushed (apply the brakes) it pushes out whatever is in the reservoir. When the plunger is returned, it pulls whatever is in the lines. If there are no lines or cracked lines, the master will suck back in air!

Let me redo what I said make a Lil more understanding
You can bleed your master cylinder by
1. Pumping your brakes till it get really firm or hard then hold down on the brakes
2. While holding have a friend open the line in the master cylinder slowly letting the fluid and air leak out
3 continue with both side till all air bubbles are gone!
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[brokenspoke]

Are you not getting a pedal? If not are the calipers on the correct way?

[padresag]

tell us what you did that you had to bleed the brakes and what kind of system
ron

[krazy_texan]

i completly replaced the entire brake system, new wheel cylinders, hoses, line and master cylinder

[padresag]

you more than likely just have a lot of air,.sometimes it takes a while. you need a pumper(another person) and start at the d/s rear and just keep at it until it comes
ron

[aerotruk63]

Do you get any oil to the brake cylinders? In all four corners? Did you prime the master? Do you get any pedal at all?

[Harley1650]

I converted everything. There was a LOT of air. My homade pressure bleeder uses a c clamp. It still took quite a bit to get all the air out

[krazy_texan]

well i did put a dual master cylinder on it for safety purposes but i have done this before and never had and issue on other trucks so i am not sure i am not getting anything to any of the wheel cylinders i am going to try and bleed the master cylinder again and start all over from scratch but i am at the point now that i am going to have to wait until next weekend cause i start my new job tommorow. i did post this in the 67-72 board as well and someone suggested that i use a syringe to fill the lines before reattaching them to the mc and then bleed them so i might try that.

[Born Lucky]

I have a 64 C20 and at first I tried everything. My last option was a pressure bleeder, this is the only wat you we get a proper bleed, that I built myself.
Parts: pressure sprayer from Ace
pressure guage
hose about 10 ft 1/4 I.D.
air hose attachment ( repair kit style)
I drilled a hole into the sprayer and expoxy the pressure guage
I removed the original sprayer hose and replaced with new hose
I then fabricated a square piece ( I used MDF as it was all I could find) drilled a hole to fit the air hose fitting in the middle. The piece was made large enough to fit over the master cylinder. Then I used a sheet of rubber(same size of the wood piece) to seal the wood between the master cylinder.
To hold the wood piece I used a C-clamp and positioned it to hold the wood over the master cylinder.
I pumped the unit to about 8-10 PSI then started my bleeding process. I also bought about 2 quarts of brake fluid to make sure I got all the air out.
Worked great!! I hope this helps.

[jocko]

ditto on some of the above comments - I did a dual res conversion and added some new lines. Took a LONG time to get the air out - and to even see the first dribble of fluid. I threw my pressure bleeder in the gar-baaaage and borrowed a neighbor. The pressure bleeder spewed crap everywhere no matter what type of seal i applied.

[blackedoutharley]

Did you by chance happen to clamp the single rear flexible brake line while doing the job, to keep fluid from leaking out, and forget to remove the clamp on the line?

Don't laugh, others (not me mind you) have done this before and it is easily overlooked or forgotten.

[krazy_texan]

thanks for all the input guys i might try it tommorow if i can though i dont ever remember it taking this long but then again i was much younger and had alot more energy to spare pumping that brake pedal lol

[Crash'd Artwerks]

Would you mind telling us a little more about exactly what you replaced ? Did you bench bleed the master cylinder ? Did you do a front disc conversion or just put a new dual reservoir master cylinder on it and keep the drums ? Did you replace ALL of the lines, or just put new ones across the front to do the dual res. conversion ?

I have seen people put the calipers on the wrong side, with the bleeder pointing down, and that traps air in the top of the caliper where the bleeder is supposed to be. You WILL NOT get the air out of the system if this is your problem.

If you didn't bench bleed the M/C, go back to that. We have one of those nifty little bench bleeder kits that has a little plastic clip that holds two clear plastic lines and has some plastic fittings that screw into the ports on the master cylinder. You just put the little clip in between the two reservoirs, and run the clear tubing from the plastic fittings in the ports back up into the reservoir, that way it recycles the fluid, and gets all the air out at the same time. I just used a really big phillips head screw driver to slowly and gently push the piston in and out, watching until all the bubbles stopped coming out.

If you didn't replace ALL of the lines, you could have one of the lines clogged, it could have a kink in the line, or even a split in the line that's causing it to suck air.

Let us know if any of that helps.

-Aaron

[krazy_texan]

i put new lines throughout the entire truck with the new mc and i put new hoses and wheel cylinders, new self adjusters, brake pads, and spring kits the only thing on the brakes that i did not replace was the drums themselves.

[krazy_texan]

oh and i kept all 4 drums

[blackedoutharley]

Fill the master cylinder, pump the pedal numerous times, open all bleeders and check tomorrow for fluid coming from all of them.

[Crash'd Artwerks]

I didn't see if you replaced them, but what about the actual bleeder itself ? Did you replace all of those as well ?

All but one of mine but one were completely clogged.

Also, I'm sure you did, but I just thought I would try to cover all bases. Did you put the little copper washer on all of the rubber hoses before you screwed them on ?

-Aaron
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[Crash'd Artwerks]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention. When we bled the brakes on my truck, my uncle had a vacuum canister that you hook the air hose to and it has a rubber line on the end of a hose coming out the top the canister that you plug on the bleeder.

It essentially sucks the fluid from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. Had my dad at the too filling the M/C and it took no time at all ! Easiest way to bleed brakes, in my opinion. Not messy at all because the fluid gets sucked into the canister.

-Aaron
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[ol_skool_chevy]

Did you happen to replace the rear brake hose? I mean the one before the "T" at the rear end.
I just did my single to duel master and I had a Heck of a time bleeding my brakes only to find out that hose was collapsed. You cant see it from the out side. I replaced mine and BINGO....no problems.

[lwb66step]

I didnt see you say you did a bench bleed on your MC....I have always put my MC in a vise and used a long screwdriver to prime it by pushing the plunger in and out repeatedly

[Crash'd Artwerks]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

Did you happen to replace the rear brake hose? I mean the one before the "T" at the rear end.
I just did my single to duel master and I had a Heck of a time bleeding my brakes only to find out that hose was collapsed. You cant see it from the out side. I replaced mine and BINGO....no problems.

I had the same exact problems so I just went ahead and replaced all three of the rubber hoses.

Originally Posted by lwb66step

I didnt see you say you did a bench bleed on your MC....I have always put my MC in a vise and used a long screwdriver to prime it by pushing the plunger in and out repeatedly

That's the way I did mine. It's a lot easier and cleaner doing it this way than trying to mess with it bolted to the firewall.

-Aaron