Task Force - Removing Front Bodywork in One Piece?

[Dan in Pasadena]

I did a searches on various terms like "front clip", "Removing body work" and nothing came up. There must be a thread already with pictures that show how to do this, isn't there?

I've been told its only upper & lower radiator hoses, electrical and 8 bolts, leaving the hood on - is that true?

Anyone have a link?

[Maximus]

True...

there are only 4 bolts on each side, or 8 bolts. after wiring/cooling is addressed...
there is one bolt at the top of the fender on the cab
one bolt on the lower fender to the cab,
one bolt from the lower inner fender to the tab on the lower firewall
and one bolt on the Radiator support to the frame.

same sequence on each side. very quick and easy to remove... however SAVE ALL SHIMS because they are annoying to realign!!!!!

after the 8 bolts, lift up and off

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Maximus! I'll assume its a heavy-as-hell and I'll need at least two guys(?) to lift it off? I also plan to keep count of how many shims come out of what place - yet somehow I know it'll STILL be a PITA to get everything realigned!

I've been trying get the doghouse as clean and nicely detailed as I can and I'm grudgingly coming to the realization that just not really possible with the bodywork in place.

Oh and PS: Do you recommend taking off the bolts in a particular order to not tweek anything...like a foot!

[rgunlock]

Dan - I've had my doghouse on and off a dozen times doing mockups. It should sit nicely in place with all the bolts out until you are ready to remove it. If you are worried about it, leave the bolts at the top of fender to cab in a few turns and nothing should move.

On my 59, the hood hinge bolts to the cab so I ended up removing my hood separate from the doghouse. Not sure about your model.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks Maximus! I'll assume its a heavy-as-hell and I'll need at least two guys(?) to lift it off? I also plan to keep count of how many shims come out of what place - yet somehow I know it'll STILL be a PITA to get everything realigned!

Yea, 2-man job for sure, and not so much for weight as it is for akwardness. I found the only stable hold/lift points were the middle of the wheel well on the fenders with one hand and the bottom of the front fenders with the other (Because of the Rad Support its really front-heavy) bolts in no particular order, its a pretty easy task to remove.

[Dan in Pasadena]

rgunlock - My hood bolts to the firewall so I should be able to just lift it and leave it in place. Actually, I already took it off to clean/spray it underneath and when it went back on it doesn't sit right - damn! I think the springs are shot cause I can put them back on with my bare hand and I think that's an indicator of their condition all by itself!

[craig32]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

rgunlock - My hood bolts to the firewall so I should be able to just lift it and leave it in place. Actually, I already took it off to clean/spray it underneath and when it went back on it doesn't sit right - damn! I think the springs are shot cause I can put them back on with my bare hand and I think that's an indicator of their condition all by itself!

Dan, did you take the hood off, and then the springs came off by hand? Once you take the hood off, the hinges open a little further and you can take them off by hand, but not so with the hood on. At least that's the way it is with the cars of this era.

[Daze57]

dan - the next time you put your hood back on and are happy with the alignment - scribe a circle around the bolts - makes for a ease of realignment - my 2 centavos worth.

[Daze57]

also -once your happy with the hood in place -drill an 1/8 hole right below your hood hinge bottom bolt into hinge and cab- as a realighnment guide also -- same 2 centavos worth

[gab50]

I did mine with an engine hoist, home made crossbar and 4 straps. It was easy coming off and worked even better going back on as you can stop while you deal with any restrictions. Did it both on and off as a one man job.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by gab50

I did mine with an engine hoist, home made crossbar and 4 straps.

Gab, Any chance of a close up photo of the cross bar - wht's it made of? And where did you attach the straps?

Craig, I DID take the hood off first, then the springs, then unbolted the hinges. But when I replaced it I just pushed the hood open higher and replaced the springs with one hand while holding the hood up with the other.

[gab50]

I just did it with what was around. Crossbar was angle iron 30 inches long, bolted to the engine hoist, two small chains to the rad support which takes most of the weight and two balance straps to the cab side of the inner fenders.

[parkwood]

Now even though these aren't trucks, i just wanted to show that you could use the hoist for just about any front end. I just used 4 ratching cables that way if i needed to pick up one side or the other it made it easy..

[Dan in Pasadena]

Good to know the straps alone will work.

Now I know I should pick up the engine hoist I just saw at a local outlet place for cheap. I'd already been tempted but knew I didn't intend to pull my engine in the short term. Truth is, now I have an excuse to buy a shiny new tool!
Posted via Mobile Device

[1959 Apache 3600]

Timely thread.
Finally got mine off yesterday. Used my engine hoist and some chains I had laying around. Worked like a charm. Was quite surprised how light the whole assembly was however.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I looked into that hoist at the outlet place I mentioned yesterday and it was more than Harbor Freight charges for their larger one, so I passed. For the moment I am holding off on taking the bodywork off, til after the holidays and a ski trip I have planned for January. But after that I'll get back on it.

[G&R's57GMC]

There is a hole near the rad support on the inner fender panels that I believe the factory used to set the front clip assembly including the rad, headlights, horns, grill,etc. It should be the balance point for the complete assembly.

Here is a picture of the hole on the left front inner fender on a 6 cylinder '56 Chevy and on a '57 GMC v-8.

Note: On the GMC the rad is on its own support and has rods that stabilize it to the firewall. The factory installs it before the front clip assembly.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Excellent info. Have you tried lifting the front end off using these holes? Has anyone reading this? I think the typical hooks on ratchet straps wouldfit right into those holes and that would make the whole effort a LOT easier if it works. You're saying attach here ONLY? No need for two attachment points at the firewall end? Very interesting.

[G&R's57GMC]

I haven't tried it yet, but I think I saw a photo of the assembly line doing that.

Logic says that the factory would need a fast and easy way to handle an assembled front clip and I've never seen these holes used for anything in the field.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

...Logic says that the factory would need a fast and easy way to handle an assembled front clip and I've never seen these holes used for anything in the field.

Yup, makes perfect sense. But then again? My experience with ALL cars has been "the factory" has done plenty of illogical stuff at times. But I think you're right that this is a good bet. Thanks again.

[G&R's57GMC]

Glad to help.

[Pop's C-10]

A engine hoist is like having 3 freinds...you can pull tha clip..cab...bed & even a drivetrain..lol

[Daze57]

those are the only friends to have !