sound proofing (great stuff)

[awitate]

So exploring my cab i noticed alot of chambers in the cab that could get filled up with great stuff (minimal expansion of course) has anyone tried this?
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[dthela]

great stuff absorbs water!

[markeb01]

Welcome to the forum!

You might want to review this thread before making any decisions on the use of foam in your truck:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=foam

[LostMy65]

I pulled foam insulation out of my cab corners that someone previous put in.
Junk - it holds moisture against the metal.
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[theastronaut]

Lizzard Skin is a waterproof, sprayable sound deadener. You could probably find an undercoating gun with attachments to apply it in hard to reach areas.

[1963c-10]

Ive heard great stuff about the Lizzard Skin

[corvettejim1968]

i knew the guy that won the world SPL (sound pressure level) contest for 1991 and he used pure silicone with a calking gun. may be more expensive but the panels were dead.

[Pop's C-10]

You need closed cell foam..not open cell

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

You need closed cell foam..not open cell

..and probably the most important thing would be good adhesion. Still don't want moisture setting between the foam and the panel.
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[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

..and probably the most important thing would be good adhesion. Still don't want moisture setting between the foam and the panel.
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^^ What he said, and that's why I like Lizzard Skin. It sprays directly on the metal so there's no chance of any moisture getting between the metal and the coating. This is important, especially in the lower panels.

Here's a cab I sprayed with Lizzard Skin's Sound Control and Heat Control coatings, two coats each. It's a little over the thickness of two credit cards and has a nice texture. It's also sandable/paintable, and you can spray high build primer over it and block it flat.












It dries black.

[dstarrett]

Whats the thought on application of the Liz skin. Must spray? Or roll/brush? Other options that are cost effective?

[theastronaut]

If I were to do it again, I'd only buy their sound control spray. You can make your own heat insulation by buying ceramic beads and mixing them in with your own paint/primer. Here's a link with more info about making your own very cheaply.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html
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[awitate]

Thanks everyone for posting! markeb01 posted a link to a previous discussion on this very subject. It seemed 1/2 and 1/2 on expanding foam. It looks like spraying foam to bare metal makes it rust faster which makes sense because of condensation. So would painting the metal before adding the foam solve that problem? How could you paint both of the inside panels of the ceiling/roof? Some people mentioned closed cell instead of open cell. How does closed cell foam react to bare metal? I have heard a lot about lizard skin but it can only reduce sound/vibration. I'm thinking that closing the gaps between 2 vibrating panels would make a way bigger impact. any thoughts?

[pdxhall]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

If I were to do it again, I'd only buy their sound control spray. You can make your own heat insulation by buying ceramic beads and mixing them in with your own paint/primer. Here's a link with more info about making your own very cheaply.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html
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I checked this link and then the site mentioned in the link that sells the beads and other related paints and such. It's very interesting and worth a look. Thanks for the info. Most of what they talk about is house paints and primers but they also talk about metal coverage. I sent them an email for more info on compatability with auto paints and primers and I haven't heard back from them yet. They claim on their site that you can mix the beads with almost any paints, primers, and even epoxys. Check it out. http://www.hytechsales.com/rust_proof.html

[dthela]

i used truck bed liner and the roofing rubber on the entire metal floor. (nobody will see it don't tell anyone)

[kieth]

I por 15'd the complete floor and back wall, then added butyl rubber with alum backing and adhesive from home depot. (roof flashing material) about 1.25 per sq foot, then added A/C duct insulation alum shin, closed foam with adhesive on top of the sound deadner. cost about 1.25 per sq ft. my cab is tight, quiet, and warm.........did not cost much.....you could use your lizard skin and then add the above items and really quieten it down and insulate it. Only draw back ....had to use a ray buck full rubber floor mat then a stock one on top of that so the shiny alum would not show since we could not paint it. If you are going to carpet it no problem.. Kieth

[K98AL]

OK, y'all are freaking me out....I welded in new rocker panels a couple of months ago, and filled with Great Stuff, to (I thought) keep them from filling up with water.....

[Max1775]

Originally Posted by K98AL

OK, y'all are freaking me out....I welded in new rocker panels a couple of months ago, and filled with Great Stuff, to (I thought) keep them from filling up with water.....

I know it seems like a great idea, but it really isn't. Not much you can do about it unless you want to cut them out...

[mbgmike]

I work for Dow chemical.We make Great Stuff. It is not for use in body repair. The proper Foam is used in newer vehicles that have been properly prepared using modern corrosion protection methods.

[theastronaut]

I'm definitly going to try the home made ceramic bead insulation under the floor and inside of the firewall on my '66. It seems it's more for heat insulation than sound, so I'll use it over a couple coats of Lizzard Skin's sound control coating.
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