Brake pedal adjustment on 63

[JDs1963]

OK guys I have a 63 c10, just replaced all shoes hardware drum and lines and wheel cylinders. Everything has been bled,checked for leaks and adjusted. My brake pedal isn't getting hard until about 2-3inches from the floor...which is too low. Went to adjust pedal travel on the adjusting rod that goes from pedal to master cylinder and found that the rod was already adjusted all the way out. The rod appears to be factory, I removed the rod and found that with the rod making contact with the master cylinder there is about a half inch cap between the end of the rod and the sleeve that it screws into. So I have atleast a half inch of rod travel in the pedal before it is ever making contact with the master cylinder...and that would be if it was only screwed into the first thread! I don't know if PO may have changed the rod for some reason but it looks like the correct one...but I don't see having that much of a gap between connecting sleeve-rod-and master cylinder being correct. Truck has 4wheel drums with factory round top master cylinder. What's your opinion on this guys? Thanks
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[Captainfab]

It sounds as though either the pushrod has been changed or altered, or the master cylinder is not the correct one. If you can get some measurements of the pushrod and possible the depth of the bore in the piston of the master cylinder, then we can determine which part is not correct.

On thing to check, is see if the piston in the master is back against the snap ring, when there is no pressure on it.

[aerotruk63]

63 had the rectangular master cylinder that projects from the firewall.

Cardone also lists a round top with a 1" bore as a replacement to the original

Master Cylinder - A1 CARDONE [Reman.]
Part Number: 10-34403
w/1 1/8" Master Cylinder Bore

[JDs1963]

OK so I measured the push rod and it is 7and1/4"s long...not sure how to measure or check the master cylinder as previously mentioned. And my master cylinder is a round top....so I'm guessing it was replaced if 63s originally had a rectangular one.
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[jocko]

Was it all working before you started the brake job? If yes and you haven't changed the master cyl or pushrod, etc with this brake job (i.e. only shoes/lines as you mention above) - then it seems REALLY odd that it's not working now... In other words, I would suspect the bleeding process as the culprit - however, based on your further discussion of pushrod problems... seems there might be some more to it.

Having said that, one more question is whether or not you have manual or power brakes (i.e. was a booster added when the non-63 mc was added perhaps). I'm assuming manual just based on the way you described it.

Bottom line, by the way you paint the picture, it seems you have a pushrod and mc mismatch. If you want to keep "stock" you could buy a new master cyl (for the 63) and see how that fits your pushrod and then buy a new adjustable pushrod if necessary. OR, you could just buy a new adjustable pushrod and install it on the existing master cylinder (least expensive route). Adjust it such that there is maybe 1/8-1/4" of freeplay between brake pedal fully against the return stop and before the business end of the pushrod engages the master cyl piston.

Here's some stuff:
MC= part # 34-4003 http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=94
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SSBC-U...Kit,50351.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...Heim,9329.html

[JDs1963]

When I bought the truck it had been sitting for years so the brake system was a mess and not working...and I have manual brakes on this truck. My only problem now is the height at which the pedal gets good pressure. I believe the pushrod is my problem because there is so much travel before it contacts the master cylinder. Can anyone think of anything else? Are there longer pushrods available? Thanks
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[JDs1963]

Thanks for the links jocko....I didn't see them at first
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[jocko]

it sounds like you're piecing this thing together and bought it from a guy that left it in a field...? Entirely possible the guy just bolted on a 64-66 mc so it would look like it had brakes... Who knows. Considering what you just said - personally, I'd chunk the old mc and make a major decision:

1) buy the correct 63 mc and a new adjustable pushrod and call it a day as mentioned above

2) buy a 67 drum/drum DUAL master cylinder (for manual brakes) and a new adjustable pushrod and upgrade to a dual mc system for safety's sake here's a few links:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332148
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487384
This conversion is very inexpensive (mc from oreilly's, some fittings, and some u-bend-it brake lines, and that's it) and a little safer than a single mc - but if you want "original," go with #1 above.
It's also possible to spend a little more and upgrade to Power drum/drum setup, will take a bit more research and I highly recommend Capt Fab's bracket if you go this route.

3) just go ahead and do the future disk brake conversion NOW (i.e. ya gotta buy some parts ANYway, so if you have any plans to do a disk conversion in the future - just do it now and you'll save all the money you would have spent on rebuilding the old single mc system). It's like MAKIN MONEY! Ha!

[JDs1963]

Thanks guys...got it fixed
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[Captainfab]

Sooooooo what did you do to fix the problem?

Originally Posted by JDs1963

Thanks guys...got it fixed
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[brawley]

my truck was doing that before I replaced everything, it turned out I was getting air in the line and that was causing the soft pedal.

[1963c-10]

I have seen 1963 1/2 ton chevy trucks with both master cylinders (the round top & squared bodied type). I think that the early 63's had the round...but I cant prove it. Just know that most of the early 63's I see have the round ones and the later models have the square ones. Several parts catalogs show both for 63.