Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!

[lil hoodlum]

I've got a little problem I could use some experienced opinions on.

My girlfriends truck, Chevy, the heater hose pipe fitting broke off at the intake. The threads are still in the intake manifold.

I know I should just take the intake manifold off and take it to a machine shop to have the thing fixed. However, I am just too broke at the moment and just wanting to try a down and dirty approach.

My first idea is to simply "sleeve" the broken fitting with some 1/2" OD copper tubing. I would either use J.B. Weld or another gasket maker than is waterproof (i.e. liquid resistance to antifreeze.)

My second idea is that if I am going to "sleeve" using the copper tubing, why not just extend it and connect it with a heater hose from the copper tubing to the heater core inlet.

[lil hoodlum]

My first idea using a copper tubing to "sleeve" the broken fitting back together.

J.B. Weld.

Other Gasket Sealant made by VersaChem, Type 1

Keith

[lil hoodlum]

Second idea.

Using a legnth of copper tubing, J. B.welded or gasket sealant afixed to intake manifold. Attach heater hose to heater core and copper tubing.

I was considering Soldering the copper tubing to the broken fitting/ intake manifold.

I'm not sure that is a good idea because of the contamination of the old pipe fitting. Does that sound correct, that both pieces should be free of contaminets in order to make a leak proof seal?

Thank you for your time and consideration!

Keith

[doubleb's69]

Man that sucks. I've heard that the TBI engines are notorious for this. Those quick connects are just another "lets hurry up and get them down the assembly line" issue from GM. Your JB Weld trick might work but you will need a good clean area to work with. When you are able to fix it correclty I'd recomend putting a pipe nipple in there and running rubber hose with the old fashioned hose clamp.

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by doubleb's69

Man that sucks. I've heard that the TBI engines are notorious for this. Those quick connects are just another "lets hurry up and get them down the assembly line" issue from GM. Your JB Weld trick might work but you will need a good clean area to work with. When you are able to fix it correclty I'd recomend putting a pipe nipple in there and running rubber hose with the old fashioned hose clamp.

For sure, when I can get it properly fixed, I will just use the pipe nipple in the intake manifold.

Thank you for your input!

Keith

[dadsworktruck]

those pot metal fitting are bad to do that, get you the 9.00 replacment fitting at the chevy place, you need to get that old stuff out and fix it correctly, no jb weld stuff only asking for problems,,,i took a dremel tool and slowly opened it up till the 1/2 pipe tap would start then i just retaped the hole, took a while but it worked for me, good luck

[doubleb's69]

Plug the hole on the intake and spray real good with carb cleaner. Antifreeze is a lubricant so the fitting needs to be free of it as you stated above.

[mcbassin]

Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.

If that doesn't work you can stuff a small rag inside the fitting then cut through the fitting with a die grinder on both sides being careful not to get shaving inside the manifold (that's what the rag is for). Be careful not to cut throught the threads. Then just break the fitting in two pieces and unscrew what's left.
I have done a ton of these kind of repairs. If you have time to wait I will send you an ez out.

You don't need to take the manifold off to get that thing out. Or take it to a machine shop.

Use one of these once you get it out.

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.

If that doesn't work you can stuff a small rag inside the fitting then cut through the fitting with a die grinder on both sides being careful not to get shaving inside the manifold (that's what the rag is for). Be careful not to cut throught the threads. Then just break the fitting in two pieces and unscrew what's left.
I have done a ton of these kind of repairs. If you have time to wait I will send you an ez out.

You don't need to take the manifold off to get that thing out. Or take it to a machine shop.

Use one of these once you get it out.

Thank you for the advice and the offer. I will try to use an ez out. I was just hoping I could do this on the cheap and easy! Ain't I a great boyfriend or what? J/K you don't have to respond to that last one!

Keith

[hugger6933]

I have had this happen to me at least ten times as most trucks from 87 to 98 had this problem. My best advise is to try the E_Zout and then retap 1/2 pipe thread. That way you had planned would probably leak,[I know it would if I were to try it]and I 'm not to sure about soldering to dissimilar metals. The pipe end that is broken off is rotten , you mat want to try a cape point chisel and tap around on that thing I have tried that with a great deal of success. That fitting as I have said is rotten and brittle it may fall apart with just a littlee help. You want to do this on the cheap you can buy that nipple at the parts store or hardware store for just a couple of bucks or less. Good luck

[alsriv2]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.

If that doesn't work you can stuff a small rag inside the fitting then cut through the fitting with a die grinder on both sides being careful not to get shaving inside the manifold (that's what the rag is for). Be careful not to cut throught the threads. Then just break the fitting in two pieces and unscrew what's left.
I have done a ton of these kind of repairs. If you have time to wait I will send you an ez out.

You don't need to take the manifold off to get that thing out. Or take it to a machine shop.

Use one of these once you get it out.

I have performed this exact repair just like mcbassin describes using the dremel tool. You could also use a small round hand file to "cut" in two small reliefs in the old pot metal. The relief cuts will reduce the pressure caused by the corroded pot metal swelling. Done carefully, you might not have to run a tap into the manifold if the corrosion isnt too bad.

Just saw I posted to late! Congrats on the successful repair!

Al
'69 GMC 2500 Custom Camper
'69 Chevy C10 396BB

[Josh]

I've had good luck using Pipe ez outs before. I've also had to use a hacksaw blade and a punch to chip it out then retap it with a 1/2" pipe tap...

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Josh

I've also had to use a hacksaw blade and a punch to chip it out then retap it with a 1/2" pipe tap...

I've done that on several. Take a hacksaw blade and cut the fitting in several places until you just get to the threads but don't cut into the threads if at all possible. Then take the punch and knock out a section and fold the next section in a bit and move to the next one and move it a bit an the last one then use a pair of plyers to unscrew that part out of the manifold. I did it a bunch of times on broken risers on wheel lines when I worked on a dairy farm.

[Coley]

....promise me that you won't try to repair this with JB weld.
I agree with the guys here with the take your time and do it right approach. You shouldn't have to remove the manifold or anything along that lines.
Plug the hole, soak it with the right lubricant, tap it a few times, heat it up, spray it again, tap it a few times...leave it overnight.
Get the right EZ-out and a cup of coffee...take your time, nice and slow a bit at time.
You'll be done and in the clear before you know it.
Good Luck
Coley

[69C-owner]

Coley hit the nail on the head
Posted via Mobile Device

[cdowns]

something worth doing is worth doing well

[stsalvage]

thats why i hate them new chevy engines there too bridal.I know the 305 and the 350 use the same intake manifold best off is to find one and get new gaskets and get on down the road. I take it you don't Run distill water in your engine. Alum intakes and other parts that come into contact with the water in your engine dose not like that tap water to many minerals.Loves to eat any thing Alum brass or copper.And if you live back in the cold states your copper and alum really hate it.

[mcbassin]

Keith,
Seriously, you can handle this. Pipe ez-out like Josh said is a good choice. That fitting is made out of a cast metal probably cast aluminum. It should come out pretty easy with a little heat applied. If you have a huge srewdriver or chisel that you can wedge in there and try turning, it might come right out? Update here when you get it out. Please don't hesitate to ask for my help. BTW, it sounds like you have your GF covered

[Fldawg]

The E-Z OUT is the best way and help line at parts store makes the same fitting to screw back in

[YBNORML]

Haha, I just did this repair on my 98 this weekend.

I used a square style e-z out, the bottom portion came out with a little work. Just take your time. Make sure you pound the e-z out in squarely. The new nipple I bought from NAPA was only $14.00. It has also been redesigned for better function. It is also made out of better material.

[hjewell2]

Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.
Yep thats the ticket right there

[OhOneWS6]

That is a very common issue on those. Get you a jig saw blade for metal and a pair of vise grips and just saw a slot in the pot metal fitting. You can saw two slots if you want across form each other. Lightly tap it with a screw driver after you cut the slots and it will fall apart. Done it many times. No need to re tap. Just don't cut too deep. All you need to cut is the pot metal fitting. You do not need to cut all the way through the threads. Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes.

The replacement fittings from the auto parts are steel and not pot metal. You will not have the same issue with the replacement.

If you want to spend money you can buy an air saw instead of using a jig saw blade with vise grips for a handle.
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-sp...saw-91753.html

[BMERDOC]

My vote is with OhOneWS6, use a hack saw blade to cut two slits 180* from each other. Use a punch, chisel or a screwdriver to knock the two halves loose from the threads.

[dfwright]

Wow... I still have the original on my Suburban. I think I'll go pull it off and replace it before I end up in the same boat.

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by dfwright

Wow... I still have the original on my Suburban. I think I'll go pull it off and replace it before I end up in the same boat.

Be prepared. 95% of the time they break if they are the original pot metal piece. The saw method is by far the easiest way to get the broken one out. You will be surprised at how easy that soft metal is to cut and how easy it is to knock the pieces out after you cut a slot or two in it.