Help with Holley 4160 Linkage

[Arl37]

I was given a holley 4160 that I am rebuilding. I dont know what came off of. It will go on a 1972 307 with a Edlebrock performer manifold. The engine is installed in a 1972 C10. Couple of questions about the linkage.
1. I assume the throttle linkage will go in the small hole below the big hole. Is this correct?
2. I assume the transmission Kickdown will go in tthe bottom hole. Is this correct?.
2. What is the plate/arm with two bolts attaching it at the base of the carb for? Guessing someting screws into it and bottoms out on the above throttle thing? Some

kind of a switch but I havent seen any on pics of this on other carbs.? Do I even need this?

Pics of linkage setupos would be very helpful. Thanks

[baja]

You are right on the cables. The bracket was to hold a kickup sol for a/c you don't need it. That carb is off a Ford.

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by baja

That carb is off a Ford.

Actually that carb is not off a Ford. It's a universal 600 vacuum base. They make them with the Ford kickdown linkage so the carb will work with just about any factory motor. They have brackets you can bolt on to run with Chrysler too.

As far as where your linkage goes, there is no set place. You usually have to mess with it a bit to get the "throw" of the linkage right. It's different if you are running an arm attached to the firewall or a cable. The cables attach to the rear carb mount stud and the arms only attach to the primary bracket. The arms have threads so you can adjust the length to get the geometry correct.

Have you ever rebuilt a Holley before? Should you be doing this? Swapping out gaskets/diaphragms and truly rebuilding a Holley are 2 different things!

[Arl37]

Thanks pro Street. Yes I Have rebuilt a number of carbs in my day. Most in the previous century may decades ago.However, I have never rebuilt a Holley. Seems to me the major challenge will be not leaving out an o ring or a small gasket. Im not particaulay worried about adjusting it ,althought, I hear the Holleys are one of the more difficult to adjust. I read instructuions, ask questions and take my time. Any tips you have on rebuilding it would be appreciated. I figured if I screw it up I will just buy a new Eldebrock. For me it the challenge of doing it more than the money. Only out $70 at this point for kit and carbdip cleaner.
Two questions:
1.What goes in the big hole.? If it for throttle linkage pin where to I get the part to fill the hole?
2. Do I need a throttle spring retun on the carb? Seems like the spring on the throttle shaft is stong enought that a retun spring is not required.
Thanks

Again any pictures would be appreciated.

[prostreetC-10]

I just posted this on another thread. Best thing you can do is to go on Youtube and search "Holley tuning DVD". It's much better than the instructions that come with the rebuild kit. They do a good job of going into all the circuits and how to adjust them.

You absolutely need a return spring. When you hold the carb in your hand and it's cold, that's one thing. When the carb gets super hot from the engine heat, things change and swell. You need at least one return spring and I would run it off the front rather than the rear if you can. That was it's directly opposing the direction of the throttle linkage. The big hole requires a special 2 piece washer for it to work and the correct stud. If you have the rod style linkage, it really won't work without a lot of modifying. It's designed for the stud with the ball on the end that the cable style linkage snaps on to.

[Arl37]

Thanks again ProStreet. The jets are 62. What do you think of those for a stock 307,except for headers, operatnig at basicly sea level in San Diego? Also, I didnt see any separate jets for the seconday. Do both barrels operate off the same jets? Thanks.

[prostreetC-10]

Good questions. There are no jets that are changeable in the rear. It's a fixed metering "plate" that has fixed jets and fixed idle bleeds. You don't jet a carb to cubic inches. You jet and power valve a carb to obtain proper air/fuel ratios throughout the rpm curve. holley jets their carbs a tad rich out of the box and at sealevel. You will probably be fine. You can mess with the jetting down the road on the primaries if you want since the carb will spend MOST of it's time in that half of the carb. It's hard to get a stock box carb to be right on throughout the curve with the factory metering blocks. You are either going to be close down low or at WOT. Not a big deal in your application. Realize though that most of those (if not all) 307s were 2 barrel motors. That 600 is about max cfm you would want to use. The Holley DVD also tells you the old school way of reading plugs for jetting.

[geezer#99]

Here's a pic of my carb showing how I like to work on them. I use a long bolt fixed into my vise and the carb wing-nutted to it. Easier to work on.
This is most likely the same carb as the OP's.

[Arl37]

Thanks agin.