questions about drop blocks

[sir_talk_alot]

ok so ive got a good chunk of change coming in this week, and if i can find a place to get some 295/50/15s and get rid of the stupid 31s on my truck for cheap(get lucky and find blemished tires), i will be lowering it soon. im going with a 2-2 1/2 front, 4 1/2-5 rear drop. from talking with a few people, i can use my front shocks which are new, on the rear as my drop shocks, and buy new drop shocks for the front. im probably going to cut a full coil on the fronts to give me the 2-2 1/2 front drop(what i was told from a mechanic friend), and then after talking with shawno, probably do a 3in drop coil rear, with drop blocks. here is my ?, i was on cpp and it lists 1.5 drop blocks, and 2 in drop blocks, but says not to use 15" wheels with 2" drop blocks, why is that? because id like to do 2" rear blocks but i have 15x10s with hopefully 295/50s on them. any input is welcome and if anyone with a swb has this drop-2/4, 2.5/4.5 or 2.5/5, please post pics so i can see what it would look like. thanks! and is this all i need to lower it? i heard something about a "bar" to keep my rearend center? idk, but im not going wild with a drop, just a good lowered stance.

[prostreetC-10]

For whatever it's worth, I would not do a 3" drop coil AND blocks. There is just no reason. Get all of your drop in the rear from the springs. I'm running a 5/7 drop. Started with 4" springs and then went to 6". Using blocks starts to mess with your pinion angles I believe. I don't think it would happen with trailing arms but running blocks on leaf springs is a great way to give the axle leverage to start causing wheel hop (axle wrap).

Your truck should already have a panhard bar to keep it centered. What is nice is to get a cheap adjustable one because you will need to relocate (center) your axle once the drop is done.

[sir_talk_alot]

but using just all coil in the rear, basically 5" drop coils, wouldnt that put my shocks in a bind? i was told to split it between drop coils and blocks that way it doesnt put my shocks at such a bad angle where my ride goes to poop and i tear stuff up. i figured the blocks would be a better idea, but i need help with this one, dont knw alot about dropping trucks. what all do i have to do with a 5" rear coil drop? bolt it in with drop shocks and be done? trying to stay on the cheap side. wish i had money for a 4/6 or bags.
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[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

but using just all coil in the rear, basically 5" drop coils, wouldnt that put my shocks in a bind? i was told to split it between drop coils and blocks that way it doesnt put my shocks at such a bad angle where my ride goes to poop and i tear stuff up. i figured the blocks would be a better idea, but i need help with this one, dont knw alot about dropping trucks. what all do i have to do with a 5" rear coil drop? bolt it in with drop shocks and be done? trying to stay on the cheap side. wish i had money for a 4/6 or bags.
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Yes.....to do it the "right" way, you need to get shorter shocks anyway or simply relocate the tops. Even if the shock has a little travel left, it's not in the position of the valving that it was designed to be in. Nice thing about these trucks is there is a lot of room under there.

There are certainly more ways to skin a cat. I'm just really happy with the springs only. 'Course I have a C notch too. Make damn sure you have the room under there. Either way will put you pretty close to the frame and one good shot you are not expecting will knock your fillings loose.

[sir_talk_alot]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

Yes.....to do it the "right" way, you need to get shorter shocks anyway or simply relocate the tops. Even if the shock has a little travel left, it's not in the position of the valving that it was designed to be in. Nice thing about these trucks is there is a lot of room under there.

There are certainly more ways to skin a cat. I'm just really happy with the springs only. 'Course I have a C notch too. Make damn sure you have the room under there. Either way will put you pretty close to the frame and one good shot you are not expecting will knock your fillings loose.

so do i need shorter shocks AND relocaters for the rear? or will it be fine to do drop shocks and 5" drop coils? and will i have to shim the rearend still?

[laid_out_70]

reason for not using larger blocks on a small wheel is it kills your scrub radius. meaning if you got a flat your u bolt/trailing arm would drag. you can correct the pinion angle by shims. just do some measuring and get a size block that wont cause your trailing arm and u bolt to hang below the rims lip.

[dbstepside]

here's the pics

[dbstepside]

i didn't know anything about the scrub radius and wondered the same thing when i bought my last truck. it already had 3 inch lowered springs front and rear. with the big block up front it had a severe amount of rake. i made a 2 inch block and bought some new u bolts. i got my ideas from here on this site. i am now happy with the stance of my truck. i am running 15 x 10 tt II's with a 295/50 tire. as far as the trac bar i'm not using an adjustable one, i probably should as my rearend is off center about 1/2 an inch but since my truck is just sitting in shop i figure it's ok. a new adjustable is not that high and i'll get one someday before i get it back out on the road. i'll put a pick of my truck up so you can see how mine looks.

[sir_talk_alot]

i think that im going to just cut my front coils a full coil ring, and put 4" drop coils and be done. ill get drop shocks. should i relocate them? and with a 4" rear coil drop, do i need to shim the rear?

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

i think that im going to just cut my front coils a full coil ring, and put 4" drop coils and be done. ill get drop shocks. should i relocate them? and with a 4" rear coil drop, do i need to shim the rear?

That's what I would do, if you need to go lower, you'd still have spindles and blocks to get you there. I recommend getting the shock relocators for the rear since not doing it really hurts the angle when you lower. As for shims, the only way to tell is after you do it all and check the angles. More than likely you'll be fine though. You might need to trim the bump stops too to allow more travel.