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05-01-2003, 07:03 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Knightdale,North Carolina
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SandBlasting
I got my bed off last weekend so i could put in a blazer tank, and i figured while i had if off why not spray on some rust prevenetive on the frame. I was just wondeing if anybody knows about how much it would cost to sandblast that part of the frame. also what should i use to stop the rust.
Thanks for any help. |
05-01-2003, 07:23 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Menifee, Calif, USA
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hmm dont use sand, use another type of media for the blasting. I aint sure what the cost is on it
I have heard from various persons that sand at the speed it comes out of the gun, heats up and can warp the metal, which will be visable ripple in the paint |
05-01-2003, 07:56 PM | #3 |
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Location: Knightdale,North Carolina
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Thanks
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05-01-2003, 08:10 PM | #4 |
Pesemistic Optimist
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Prineville, Oregon
Posts: 227
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Sandblasting
In my opinion, if sandblasting your frame warps it, then it's time for a new frame. Yeah the heat generated by ANY media blasting can cause warpage to body panels if done incorrectly or by an inexperienced operator.
To answer your question, around here anyway, you could have the back section of your frame blasted for around 100-200 dollars depending on condition and the type of media used. Also ZeroRust or POR15 are some good rust preventatives that I would use. Hope this helps, Dan. |
05-01-2003, 09:02 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for the info.
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05-01-2003, 10:43 PM | #6 |
68cst_ss490
Join Date: May 2001
Location: edmonton,canada
Posts: 1,363
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Up here i can get my whole froame sandblasted for between 130- 160 bucks. i wouldnt pay more than 80 or 90 for just the back half
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05-01-2003, 10:56 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Oklahoma City
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sandblasting/POR 15
Both are good solutions for taking care of rust. I have done both, so far no problems. Sandblasting will remove the rust completely. POR 15 only prolongs the inevitable. I am not knocking POR 15, I just know a lot about corrosion properties and all the research I have done in my life time tells me that, once its corroded, you can't stop it. If your frame is rusty, your bed, cab, radiator support, etc, rest on top of it. In time, these metals will become infected. As the old saying goes, pay me know or pay me later. If the area is exposed, get it done.
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05-02-2003, 12:11 AM | #8 |
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I had my frame and running gear blasted and powder coated. It was 1.5 hours for the blasting@ $90 per hour. They chose to sand, and they can use all kinds of media, and it looked fine to me.
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'67 C10 short box fleet side wood bed small rear window frame off restoration. 396BB,Th400, ps, pwr disc 5 lug, posi 3.07, 2000 Suburban 60/40 pwr seats, 2.5" front drop 4" rear, powder coated running gear. |
05-02-2003, 08:13 AM | #9 |
1969 Custom 30 wrecker
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Your other choices are to invest that money into buying your own sandblasting equipment or renting the necasary items. (this is of course if you have an area to do this job)
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05-02-2003, 09:16 AM | #10 |
Almost Satisfied
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
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Here is
the sand I use and it has never warped a panel. Worked great on the frame, but you do need to spray some oven cleaner on the grease to loosen it up before blasting. Just makes it go quicker.
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1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
05-02-2003, 01:09 PM | #11 | |
Hot Damn - Here I Am!!
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Re: Sandblasting
Quote:
Robert
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05-02-2003, 01:31 PM | #12 |
Robert Olson Transport
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: recent transplant to NC USA
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wire brush it and rustoleum it simple as that
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05-02-2003, 07:50 PM | #13 |
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sounds like me i used a Hand wire brush and rustoleum it was a pain in the arse but its done now. well pritty much done lol
-kyle
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05-03-2003, 04:24 AM | #14 |
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Sand blasting can be aggresive but a lot depends on the skill of the operator as far as warping parts go. We use three different blasters for our parts and one of our blasters can't be trusted with anything thinner than a frame.
The blaster we use most for sheet metal is extremely good. He sand blasted the grill for my 1954 John Deere, (the 1/32" thick preforated metal part) without warping it. It was clean bare metal when he was finished with it! Jim |
05-03-2003, 07:42 AM | #15 |
Careful, they attack...
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Waterford, MI, USA
Posts: 1,107
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You only need to worry about warpage on sheet metal parts. You will not warp your frame with a sandblaster. In my area, I have had two estimates to get my frame blasted. One was $350 and they come to my house, pick up the frame in an enclosed trailer, blast it, then return it to me. The second was $200 and I take it to them. So for just half I would only pay $100 or less. Why not take the rest of the truck parts off and do the whole frame, then it's done and you have a good foundation for building your truck on?
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05-03-2003, 10:05 AM | #16 |
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I wouldn't mess with blasting half the frame. They will have so much labor covering and protecting the things on the frame that you don't want blasted, it will be more expensive. If they blast the brake lines, it will probably damage them (depending on the pressure and sand). At this point, you would be just as well off to wire brush (in a drill) and paint. Don't get me wrong, blasting is the absolute best way to go on the frame, but the only way it will be worthwhile would be with a bare or near bare frame. IMHO.
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05-03-2003, 10:24 AM | #17 |
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I think minibike makes a very good point. I don't think it's practical to have a comercial blaster do half the frame. There's a good chance that they would do more harm than good. If you found someone who is really good and careful the price is going to be very expensive. Blasting it yourself is probably the best option if you had the equipment: air compressor, blaster, ect. The next best might be to clean it the best you can using ovencleaner high pressure washer and wire wheel and coat with your favorite magic rust potion. I've used the eastwood product before and it seemed to work well, and many swear by POR15, and Zero Rust. Good Luck..Stroker
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