700r4 into c10

[glenmyers]

help please...I have a 68 c10 w/ 454 and 4-speed. Tired of shifting and looking into whats involved in a 700r4 swap. It has 3.73 gear so definately want o.d. Can anyone tell me what else i'd need besides crossmember? and how the swap goes??
Thanks for help

[Dingfodgy]

Flex plate, starter, shifter, TV cable and bracket, Lockup switch & wiring, possible driveshaft lenthen/shorten, auto trans radiator or external cooler and various fasteners.

Installation steps:

1. Pull 4-speed
2. Swap out flywheel for flex plate
3. Install Trans without torque convertor
4. Bolt x-member to trans and mark location of mounting holes.
5. Measure for possible DL mods
6. Mark cutout needed for shifter
7. If needed send out DL for mods
8. Remove trans
9. Drill holes for x-memeber and install
10. Reinstall trans with torque converter
11. Bolt TC to flexplate
12. Bolt tailhousing to x-memeber
13. Install new starter
14. Install TV bracket and cable- do this correctly or fry your tranny...quick!
15. Install Lockup switch and wiring
16. Install shifter
17. Install Driveline
18. Hook up speedo cable
19. Install new radiator or cooler
20. Run lines to radiator / cooler
21. Fill with Dextron
22. Check for leaks
23. Enjoy!

[chopnchaneled]

Also need the proper drive gear on the main shaft of the trans and matching driven gear to correct speedo. the 700r4 had mechanical speedo's and electronic,
can't remember when the mech. ended somewhere around 88/89 (i think)

Try transmission center.net

[6772owner]

Bowtie overdrives is the answer to all your questions/needs, call them and never look back, I purchased some items before calling them and regretted it. They have all the correct components and vast knowledge of these transmissions.

The TV cable, bracket and adjustment is crucial for them to operate properly and live a long life. I would also receommend a good transmission cooler and a trans temp gauge if you are going to tow.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

What about the crossmember under the bell houseing. It seems you will have to remove it.

[6772owner]

I removed it when I swapped my 700R4 in, I didnt even try to leave in, I ended up cutting the crossmember up to get it out... those rivots on the top of the frame rail are a bear with the cab on!

I am using the Early Classic trans crossmember also, I really like how it fits and it "boxes" the frame rails as well.

[rsavage]

The pilot bushing needs to be removed from the end of the crank. The stick crossmember should be removed and you will then need an auto crossmember and a block mounted starter as I assume your present starter is bolted to the bellhousing. +1 on 6772owner's bowtie OD's recommendation. You will need an auto column (much cleaner than an aftermarket floor shifter (you can use a TH350 or 400 column) and an aftermarket linkage arm that connects (only about $30). You can select all gears with this setup.

[6772owner]

Good call on the starter, I totally forgot I had to change the starter as well, of course mine was a manual to begin with...

I used the Kugel linkage rod to my tilit column and purchased the indicator for OD so that the pointer is mostly correct.

[mrein3]

When you swap that manual flywheel for an automatic trans flexplate, you need different - shorter - bolts.
Sucks when you're under there and come across that fact. Not that I've been there before.
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[stingjim]

You also must have at least a 3:73 geared rear end

[77chris03]

Originally Posted by stingjim

You also must have at least a 3:73 geared rear end

i disagree...i have a 3:07 geared rear end in my 68 with a 350/700r4

[stingjim]

You also must have at least 3:73 rear end

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I run a 3.08 rear end in my 70 Stepper with 700R4 & a 350 engine. Sweet combo.

[rsavage]

The 200 4R I just pulled out of my Burb for a future rebuild was really a little too much overdrive for my 3.07:1 rear end. It will shift into OD and lock the converter up at about 45 mph which would have the engine rpm's at about 1000 - 1100. I used 3rd (1:1) until I was on a highway and could drive above 60 mph. I would agree with stingjim in that 3.73 would seem to me to be ideal. Obviously, it will work with lower numerical ratios but I don't think you are going to leave it in OD around town.

[AusTx68]

Originally Posted by glenmyers

help please...I have a 68 c10 w/ 454 and 4-speed. Tired of shifting and looking into whats involved in a 700r4 swap. It has 3.73 gear so definately want o.d. Can anyone tell me what else i'd need besides crossmember? and how the swap goes??
Thanks for help

Is your 454 bone stock or does it contain performance mods? A stock 700r4 won't live long behind a healthy big block. Especially if you like to put your foot in it. If you just want an automatic throw in a 400. If you want the OD try to find a 700r4 that's been built to handle the extra torque. Torque is key. A lot of time you'll see tranny's advertised by the HP rating. Really it's their torque capacity that matters. I have a healthy 383 with a stock 700r4. I have 2k miles on the tranny and it's starting to make noise.

[glenmyers]

thanks guys for all the great info- I do have a 3.73 in it now. The 454 is modified a bit (cam, intake, carb, headers-yup, a lot of fun!) but the more I look into it I think I will go the TH350/400 route and drop the rear ratio a bit. Looks like a lot easier and no TV/lockup issues for an old dummy like me to screw up!
Just want easier cruising around town etc!
Anyone want a complete Muncie 4-speed setup??
Thanks again

[dukcaln]

I run 3;73 and have been looking for a 700r4... as soon as I find one its bye bye tb350

[6772owner]

I understand your fears of the TV set-up, but its really not that bad if you follow Bowtie Overdrives video and you only do it once if done correctly. I used a simple vacuum control for my convertor lock up control and I havent touched it since it was installed...

The lock up and shift points can be adjusted through the governor, it just takes a few tries to get it right. I love cruising on the highway at 75mph around 2,500 rpm and will never go without OD again!