sorry guys. another carburetor thread...

[dead civic]

real sorry, But I'm new to all of this. And i keep paying a 20 here and there to shops that say they will adjust my carb properly.

and i read random stuff about my choke

here is my issue. i always have to adjust chike by hand, In the morning i have to close it. then i have to adjust it because if it opens all the way the truck stalls bad after a completes stop. On a bad day the truck will not move if the choke opens all the way till i manually close it to slight opening?, So i have to have it mildly open instead of wide open... is that normal or can you fellas drive your vehicles with a wide open choke? I've been told a few time to have wide open but...

any input is greatly appreciated.
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[lurch115]

every engine and carb. is different. What i usually do to set an automatic choke is if possible try to set it on a cold day first thing when the motor is completely cold. I usually set them so that they are held (by the automatic choke coil) about 1/8th of an inch at most open. that will get it in the ball park. some like it to be closed a little more, and some a little less. I've even set a couple of them in the summertime by using cold water or ice before.

[86 K-10]

running with it wide open is fine, it just may be harder to start...it sounds like you may have other issues with the carb though. if you're driving around with a partially closed choke, youre probably killing your gas mileage.

maybe your idle isn't set correctly with the choke off
if it only stalls when youre coming to a stop, your fuel bowl level may be too high

[dead civic]

ok. so I'm going to set the chocke to 1/8 th open for initial starts.

my question takes place at operating temperatures.
the choke has to be pretty much at 40-50% open position. other wise the motor seriously stalls laggs and sometimes shuts off. why is it doing this?

any input is appreciated thanks.

[C-10 simplex]

In my opinion, AFTER the engine is warmed up to normal temperature, the choke blade must be open all the way, all the time.

If you're stalling with it open all they way, you have other problems unrelated to the choke. Possibly to high float level---as 86 pointed out. The idle-mix screws may not be adjusted properly etc.


Actually, if you are coming to a normal stop, not a panic stop, then fuel level in the bowl might be too low---float level too low. Meaning things are too lean if the blade is open all the way?

[lurch115]

Originally Posted by C-10 simplex

In my opinion, AFTER the engine is warmed up to normal temperature, the choke blade must be open all the way, all the time.

If you're stalling with it open all they way, you have other problems unrelated to the choke. Possibly to high float level---as 86 pointed out. The idle-mix screws may not be adjusted properly etc.


Actually, if you are coming to a normal stop, not a panic stop, then fuel level in the bowl might be too low---float level too low. Meaning things are too lean if the blade is open all the way?

i agree with both of these guys. sounds like you are either having float issues, air fuel mixture issues, or the carb. is just plain due to be gone through (rebuilt) and cleaned out.

[86 K-10]

Originally Posted by dead civic

ok. so I'm going to set the chocke to 1/8 th open for initial starts.

my question takes place at operating temperatures.
the choke has to be pretty much at 40-50% open position. other wise the motor seriously stalls laggs and sometimes shuts off. why is it doing this?

any input is appreciated thanks.

set the choke completely open, readjust the idle mixture (preferrably with a vac. gauge) and fuel bowl level. if it wont run without the choke under normal driving conditions it's running lean and is probably gonna need a rebuild...that is, if it was running fine previously. maybe try running some cleaner through it.

if it's a newer carb and has never ran right, you may just need to tune it. jets, etc...

can you give any more info on the carb? brand/type/mileage

[dead civic]

ok. I'm gonna tune it with a wide open choke...

the truck has had issues since i bought it about a month ago.

dont know much about the carb but here is what was listed.

"Carter 4bbl carb" from the sales posting

how would i adjust fuel bowl level?

[csb#356]

If when the engine is warmed up and you have to have the choke partially closed for it to run right, then you probly have a vacuum leak. The choke being closed limits air to the engine, so if its running ok with the choke shut the engine is pulling air from somewhere else other than above the venturies(barrels of the carburetor). When the engine is warmed up the choke should always be fully open, outside air temperature doesn't matter. The choke is for cold starting only, once it starts you shouldn't need it closed after a minute or two. Check all the vacuum lines to the carb and make sure none are cracked or unplugged and make sure there is no open fittings on the carb. If that checks out then take a can of ether and spray it around the base of the carb and intake and listen for a change in rpms. If the float level was too high and the engine was getting too much fuel because of that the choke being closed and making it even richer wouldn't help that situation.

Also take a spark plug out and check color and then report back. Do you have a timing light to check ignition timing?

[dead civic]

Originally Posted by csb#356

If when the engine is warmed up and you have to have the choke partially closed for it to run right, then you probly have a vacuum leak. The choke being closed limits air to the engine, so if its running ok with the choke shut the engine is pulling air from somewhere else other than above the venturies(barrels of the carburetor). When the engine is warmed up the choke should always be fully open, outside air temperature doesn't matter. The choke is for cold starting only, once it starts you shouldn't need it closed after a minute or two. Check all the vacuum lines to the carb and make sure none are cracked or unplugged and make sure there is no open fittings on the carb. If that checks out then take a can of ether and spray it around the base of the carb and intake and listen for a change in rpms. If the float level was too high and the engine was getting too much fuel because of that the choke being closed and making it even richer wouldn't help that situation.

awesome answer cancelling out the float issue thanks for that. when light breaks tomorrow I'm gonna check all my lines and carb to IM seal as well. will post back after. thanks.

oh and I'm also gonna change the fuel filter

[dead civic]

wow. i sprayed carb cleaner along the IM to Heat meet. and idle shifts all around. then to the carb to IM meet and same. so decided I'd check them bolts and they were super loose. so tightened them up. truck runs. but takes a a second to react small stall, but the engine runs now with an open choke . and it shut off on me once when i took a corner hard :/

[csb#356]

The shutting off when cornering could be a float issue, especially so if the float bowls are on the sides like on the carter AFBs. Did you check the plugs? they'll probly be pretty white if it was running that lean. From what it sounds like it wouldn't be a bad idea to just go through the carb and clean it and set it back to factory specs and then maybe reseal the manifold and carb base.

[dead civic]

I'm done. this is so annoying. The truck is back not working with the choke open more the like 35-40 percent. this is too much for me. I really feel like selling the truck. the truck is also leaking oil form the valve covers, and smokes like crazy because of the headers.



:HOW MUCH WOULD THIS TRUCK BE WORTH?:

1979 Chevy Scottsdale Short bed
Clean title
Current reg. need to smog soon.
B.A.R. for the Swap


Engine
Changed:
Motor oil
Transmission oil
Spark plugs
1979 Corvette 350 5.7l with a cam
350 Trans with Shift kit (churps tires to 2nd!)
Carter 4bbl carb
Edelbrock Intake manifold RPM
Edelbrock air cleaner (satin black)
Doug Thorley headers
Flowmaster 40 series
Edelbrock High performance fuel pump (not installed)
Truck sounds mean!

Exterior

Primered Rustic red for that rat rod look!
Lowered 3.5" with drop spindles, coils, etc.
Very lil dings here and there, all original!

Interior

Could use some work if that’s what you’re into!
New window stripping
Grant steering wheel and hub
Tan Bench Seat with decent condition
Chevy center consle
JVC headunit with ipod/aux
6x9" speakers on the doors
amp (forgot brand)

Wheels/Tires

Brand new Monroe lifetime warranty front struts
14" 100 spokes Daytons [all 4 tires are not so good]
White wall tires
or
15x10" American racing 200s 5 spokes ( big lip) $1100 for the rims alone! [missing one rim]
Daytona GT Qualifier tires 265/50/15

[86 K-10]

brand new holley 600 - $277
set of valve cover gaskets - $15
enjoying your square after fixing it's issues - priceless

dont give up...you just need to rebuild that carb or get a new one.