More help from some dropmember guys..please

[smartass12]

I know this might be jumping to far ahead but if someone that is running the same set up as me might be able to help. So i am running Porterbuilt dropmember (will lay frame) and run about 5" ride height. Two piece drive shaft and a LS1 Engine with 4L60e Auto Transmission. I don't want to purchase the engine yet (money/warranty issues) but i want to continue on the rear end.. ie.. weld on bag mounts and such. In doing so i need the pinion angle of the rear diff and i assume somebody would know if they are running the same set up..If anybody can help me out that would be great..Fyi...my truck is a 67 c10 stepside...thanks again if any help is possible..

[smartass12]

Anybody??

[Jparks]

If I get what I think you're asking, assuming you have the rear trailing arm setup, the rear end will place itself once everything is tightened on the arms. The pinion angle you worry about is the front coming off the trans. After everything is secure, put your truck at ride height and weld the bag mounts on.

You can always give Nate a shout.
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[smartass12]

Originally Posted by Jparks

If I get what I think you're asking, assuming you have the rear trailing arm setup, the rear end will place itself once everything is tightened on the arms. The pinion angle you worry about is the front coming off the trans. After everything is secure, put your truck at ride height and weld the bag mounts on.

You can always give Nate a shout.
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I do have the trailing arm setup from nate. So once secured that is the rear dif angle? no need to change any angle on that end? I wasnt sure if i needed to remove the existing ubolt perches (for lack of a better term) to chance the angle ....

[Jparks]

From what I remember from talking to him about mine, no you don't do anything with the rear, it's the front that makes everything mate up, it's been about a year since I did mine though so I'd definitely shoot him a text just to double check
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[DURG]

Before welding the mounts up on the rear tubes for the 4 link, set your frame at the desired ride height. You can then set your pinion angle to the desired angle. Tack the mounts and check the angle again. You will be able to change your pinion angle slightly by lengthening and shortening the upper and lower trailing arms. Shorten the upper arms and it will tilt your pinion down. Shortening the lower arm will tilt the pinion up. To decide WHAT pinion angle you want to run, with a single piece shaft, some recomend running the pinion angle just the opposite of the front driveline angle so if your engine was in at a 3 degree down angle toward the tranny, run your pinion up 3 degrees. In circle track cars we used to run the pinion down a couple degrees to promote bite but we had a 3 point rear suspension. As close together as the 4 links are vertically from each other it should be fairly easy to set the angle as long as the mounts are welded on properly when you are at ride height. Sorry I just wrote all this thinking your "trailing arm" suspension was a four link as I call the other stock style "truck arms".
The only way to change your pinion angle with a stock truck arm rear is to changge the location of the perches or use tapered shims on the perches.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by DURG

Before welding the mounts up on the rear tubes for the 4 link, set your frame at the desired ride height. You can then set your pinion angle to the desired angle. Tack the mounts and check the angle again. You will be able to change your pinion angle slightly by lengthening and shortening the upper and lower trailing arms. Shorten the upper arms and it will tilt your pinion down. Shortening the lower arm will tilt the pinion up. To decide WHAT pinion angle you want to run, with a single piece shaft, some recomend running the pinion angle just the opposite of the front driveline angle so if your engine was in at a 3 degree down angle toward the tranny, run your pinion up 3 degrees. In circle track cars we used to run the pinion down a couple degrees to promote bite but we had a 3 point rear suspension. As close together as the 4 links are vertically from each other it should be fairly easy to set the angle as long as the mounts are welded on properly when you are at ride height. Sorry I just wrote all this thinking your "trailing arm" suspension was a four link as I call the other stock style "truck arms".
The only way to change your pinion angle with a stock truck arm rear is to changge the location of the perches or use tapered shims on the perches.

Porterbuilt's center T/A x-member allows for adjusting the pinion angle as it has multiple holes in the verticle plain for adjustment.

[DURG]

It will change more than just the pinion angle by moving the t-arms up and down in those mounts. Raising and lowering the t-arms will affect forward bite too.