Need some of y'all to review my logic and provide some advice.

[cjohnson6772]

I've got a '72 SWB Super Cheyenne. The engine in the truck is a stock 4 bolt 350 and TH 350 trans. I've had a TPI on the truck for about 5 years now. I love the simplicity and drive-ability of fuel injection. The engine is blowing smoke and using a significant amount of oil. I just have the valve seals replaced and it hasn't seemed to help. I've basically determined that to fix the issue that I would need to re ring the engine. This would basically mean taking the engine out (and front clip off) and I figure I would wind up spending at least $500 in parts and labor to have the engine re ringed and still have a stock gen I 350. The truck gets 14.5 mpg on a trip which is fine, but I can't take it on long interstate trips due to no overdrive which I hate so I would want to do a 700R4 swap when I re ring the engine. I figure all said and done I will spend at least $1000 on the re ring and OD trans.

So this presents some options:

-I have the original block to the truck in storage at the moment. I could build a 383 roller engine for the truck based on the original block and keep the TPI. But I figure I will spend a lot of $$$ getting the TPI up to snuff to feed a healthy 383. The plus side is that it would be the original block and very torquey. Would swap to 700R4 at the same time.

-re ring current engine and drive it. Would swap to 700R4 at the same time.

-Find an LQ9 engine and 4l60e to bring the truck into the 20th century.

-Find a truck 5.3 and 4l60e and add some bolt ons.

My goal is to have a truck I can drive to Cali on the interstate at 80 mph with no worries if need be. The truck will never be a Corvette I know that but I want decent power. I think 380/380 hp/tq is a minimum goal if I build/swap engines.

Also very important to me is all the finishing details. For instance I want all my factory gauges to work if I go to an LS engine.

From experience can anyone recommend the best way forward and give me a REALISTIC budget for their recommended option? Things to watch out for?

[BR3W CITY]

4-7k$ is where most complete swaps end up, depending on factors like what other performance mods are involved etc.

You could do a swap for under 2k, but that would be finding the right parts at the right time, and building with what is available, not what you want.

If you want a simple enough swap without throwing lots of aftermarket goodies onto it, I'd look at the 5.3/4l60e combos, or possibly the lq4 w/ either a 60e or 80e.
The lq9's are too expensive and are really too much engine for the 4l60's. The lq4 makes only a little less power and is cheaper, although you are again on the higher end of what a stock 60e can take.

Getting stock gauges to work (gas, temp, volt etc) are easy, but the speedo/odo may require a cableX if they are gear driven, as the 60e and 80e trans don't have an output for that.


Cheap "just get it done" swap
junkyard 5.3 longblock w/accessories ; 5-800
(find one with a cable driven TB if you want to avoid the drive by wire stuff for expense)
running 60e off craigslist or junkyard ; 4-500 (optional $200 to go over it, do a cheap shift kit)
use stock converter to save cash, or find a used one or new stock one;60-350
mounts; 40
harness; if you can get it with the engine, then its just the cost of your time pulling out the junk, otherwise anywhere from 150+reworking or 400+ for custom
driveshaft re sized; 125
fuel system stuff; 250 if you just to hardline with some FI rubber and clamps and a cheap inline pump
headers/exhaust mani's that fit your truck; 85-500 (Stock type vs headers)


Thats like a minimum outline, and not including all the little stuff for gauges, or stuff like shift brackets, sensors, misc.

Start putting go fast goodies, show details, upgrades, custom stuff etc and you look at an additional 2k and the sky is the limit from there.

My swap was about 4k to do with basic fun stuff added, I'm well over 7k into it including things like the gauges and shifter upgrades that resulted from doing the engine.

[whitels1]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

4-7k$ is where most complete swaps end up, depending on factors like what other performance mods are involved etc.

This is completely accurate, and my swap fell into about the middle of this, w/o a tranny that was just motor and retrofitting the truck. I would think the 4l60E would be fine in your truck, just put a nice cooler on it. Whether you go with a 6.0 or a 5.3 you won't be disappointed they both have plenty of power, and can easily make 380 with a cam swap, good flowing exhaust, and tuning.

[nibs]

^ What he said... You can find the cheap/bargain swaps, but they can be a fun one to find. You could get some fun cheap power out of that original engine that you have sitting around!

[clinebarger]

I like the LQ9/4L65E combo. The trucks that this combo comes in are REALLY heavy AWD trucks & SUV's, If driven like a normal person...The trans will last a long time. 67-72 trucks are light in comparison so your actaully not putting the trans under as much strain

BR3W CITY, Im not saying your wrong....I just have a different opinion on 4L60E/65E transmissions.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

I like the LQ9/4L65E combo. The trucks that this combo comes in are REALLY heavy AWD trucks & SUV's, If driven like a normal person...The trans will last a long time. 67-72 trucks are light in comparison so your actaully not putting the trans under as much strain

BR3W CITY, Im not saying your wrong....I just have a different opinion on 4L60E/65E transmissions.

Its all good, you tend to be the "other side" to my opinions, it ends up better for everyone reading.

FWIW, since the 65e went to 5 planetary gears, it IS stronger the a junkyard 60e. IMO lq9 in front of 4l60e (which already probably has 60-100k on it, which also means it probably never had the fluid service) is asking to eventually slip the trans and need a rebuild or replacement.

I would take an 80e (and I've heard good about the 70e but never had my hands on one) out of the junkyard and put it behind a swap and run it.

I also have plenty of nasty things to say about the 700r4, so maybe I'm just pre-disposed to dislike the 60e.

[Clyde65]

I dont have near as much experience with the LS swaps as Chris ( Clinebarger) or BR3W City does, but Ill throw my .02 in there anyway.

I was in almost the exact situation you are in, tired motor, want better driveability, economy and reliability. I did my swap in my carport and it was just me, only working evenings after kids were down and it took way longer than I wanted( 9months) but its done and has been done for a while, I absolutely love it, it is just a 4.8/4l60e swap but it has plenty of power for me and gets me close to 20mpg on the highway.

I didnt do any power adders or that stuff, heck it is a 4.8! I bet you could do the swap for a lot less if you fore go the add ons and just get it to DD status, do the harness yourself and find some good deals. Chris does these swaps for a living, he has helped me alot over the years and so has BR3W City. You will never regret doing the swap.

BTW, I drive my truck to work and back about 3-4 times a week, I have driven it, 100miles one way at 70mph and it never missed a beat, got hot or anything. I got 20.4mpg on that trip.

[OldCreek]

Remember, you can find a 5.3/4l60e combo for approx $1k-1.5k with all the fixings. However, all the other stuff will nickle and dime you to death! Plus, you'll spend a lot of time online researching part numbers and stuff. But, it's worth it.

It's not a necessity, though. But the cool factor is worth it!

[softballnrd27]

BR3W- I tend to agree with you on the trans. The 80 can handle alot as it sits, but add certain parts to it and it becomes pretty bulletproof. The only downside to the 80 is it's size compared to the "lighter duty" transmissions.

I haven't had the balls for the lack of a better word to sit down and tally up the costs that I have associated with my swap. The really crappy thing is now I have to hunt down a new motor. (Injector failure lead to a broken rod)

CJohnson- With your power goals in mind I would look for a 04+ 5.3, even an all aluminum 5.3 would work but will cost a little more $$$. Throw a nice cam in it with a good tune and you will meet your power goals with flying colors. A 4l60e can be made to survive behind your power goals/weight but a completely stock 4l80e will last forever.

[cjohnson6772]

Thank you to everyone who has weighed in. I've done a ton of reading and checking with local guys and i think my plan so far is to look for an lq4/lq9 whichever appears first and a 4l80e. Engine will get a mild cam in the 580-590 lift range. Ls6 intake and if i go lq4 then shave the heads to get 10.5:1. Headers and that is it. Basically stock. Hoping with a tune for 450 at the flywheel. Reasonable?
Posted via Mobile Device

[cjohnson6772]

Alright well here is where I'm at. Found a lq4 out of an '04 van. Has everything except for a/c comp (already have a sanden 508 v-belt comp on truck now). 130K miles for $1000. Also have a line on a 4l80e with 80K miles for $500. Trying to buy both this week. Here is where I need help:

What do I have to look for when going to look at these engines. COMPLETELY new to ls engines so assume my complete ignorance.

Also help me make sure I'm not forgetting anything major that I need to mod:

-need tubular engine stands
-long tube headers
-f body oil pan
-radiator hose adapters for stock 4 core
-elec speedo of some type
-move trans cross member
-possibly use rear mount tank, but possibly use stock fuel tank for now

Please weigh in on plan to date and feel free to give suggestions on fuel tank, headers, mounts, a/c bracket for 508, and radiator hose