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Old 05-27-2003, 09:40 PM   #1
2tankin79
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C section

Is installing a C-Section in the frame something you could do yourself, or does a shop need to do it? also, if you can do it yourself, how long does it take, and how hard is it? has anyone on here installed C-sections in their truck themselves?


ThAnKs, JeFf
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Old 05-27-2003, 10:17 PM   #2
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Not very hard to do. I guess it depends on how much knowledge you have with stuff like this.

http://www.73-87.com/garage/csection.htm
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Old 05-27-2003, 10:23 PM   #3
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Good job on the article Mike!

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Old 05-27-2003, 10:27 PM   #4
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Boy Mike, I thought your frame would be cleaner than that!!! JK LOL
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Old 05-27-2003, 11:12 PM   #5
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if you have a nice array of tools, and you have some welding skills then go for it
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Old 05-27-2003, 11:43 PM   #6
swervin ervin
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You don't have to weld a c section. Mine is a bolt in.
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Old 05-27-2003, 11:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by gldevall
Boy Mike, I thought your frame would be cleaner than that!!! JK LOL
Is right nasty, ain't it?
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Old 05-28-2003, 12:03 AM   #8
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Here's what a weld in C-notch looks like. More work than a bolt in, but a little cleaner look. It depends on what your skill level is. The bolt in works just fine in most applications...
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Articles-

"Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab

"Elwood" the77_Remix

85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett"

"Refining Sierra"

Last edited by N2TRUX; 10-04-2007 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 05-28-2003, 12:04 AM   #9
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I see you have the Edlebrock shocks. Do you like them?
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Old 05-28-2003, 12:05 AM   #10
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Inside view...
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Articles-

"Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab

"Elwood" the77_Remix

85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett"

"Refining Sierra"

Last edited by N2TRUX; 10-04-2007 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 05-28-2003, 12:59 AM   #11
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I bolted and welded the c-notch. Making it look like it came that way from the factory. Welding the frame is the easy part. Any welding process will work stick, flux core , mig .I think it looks more professional to weld and bolt. With a stepside box its a good idea to pry up the bed wood(fire ) or even with a steel bed .A grinder and a torch and a welding machine i guy can fix about anything .I bought a kit and after looking at it i wish i had fabricated my own. jay
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:17 AM   #12
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I have a few good pics for this . not a GM truck but same principal. this guy comes over with a baby seat in the back of his truck and the truck virtualy in two halves, if it had not been for the hitch on the back it would have seperated. NO! the rear half is not supposed to be a that angle in this first pic. in the second pic you will see his NASTY! attempt. when he told me that he eventually wanted to 'lay frame' further down the road i decided to give him plenty of room to do it . Heck the whole damn frame section needed replacing anyway it was so butchered i could not save it , so i replaced it .

ALSO= Good job Mike.
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:19 AM   #13
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nuf said

nuf said
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:21 AM   #14
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:21 AM   #15
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Old 05-28-2003, 08:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by crossy
I would have carried that notch out at least 10"-12" either way just to be sure.
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Old 05-28-2003, 03:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by ocbaud
yeah what he said!
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Old 05-29-2003, 04:16 PM   #18
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Here is the latest of my weld in...
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/U-notched1.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/U-notched2.jpg
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Old 05-29-2003, 06:54 PM   #19
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Lightbulb fish plates

Do you plan on installing fish plates on that? It certianly would improve the strength. Fish plates are doublers the go horizontial with the frame. Is that 1/2 inch channel? The weld is certianly big.
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Old 05-29-2003, 07:43 PM   #20
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that 'thing' ( no insult intended Chris ) certainly does not need fishplates. it almost ties the top & bottom portions of the frame together now. if a small filler were welded to the top to bring up to the top edge it would finish that off and that was a damn cheap & easy way of doing a 'C' notch. A section of 6" pipe would work real nice also. DAVE
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Old 05-29-2003, 09:23 PM   #21
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I stand corrected I forgot how heavy that channel is.Using channel or 6" pipe may be easier not neccasarily cheaper.that isnt the way i would fab a notch frame. But a guys got to do what a guys got to do. A guy could always go to a parts store look at the kit and take measurements.Something could be said for making it look factory(and resale value). i also might add that if a truck is never going to be a show piece what ever works works. jay
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Old 05-30-2003, 09:36 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by crossy
that 'thing' ( no insult intended Chris )....... A section of 6" pipe would work real nice also. DAVE
Not insulting me... I can assure you it is plenty strong. I probably will finish it up but it will only be for visual purposes not strength. The previous C-notch I have (on SU) uses a 6" Sched 40 pipe section. This is what you used before the "bolt-in" notches. SU has had the 6" pipe in it since 1990, and I abused it, so strength isn't an issue.

You can see some of it here:
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/blastedframe1.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/cutframe3.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/tankmount2.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/tankmount.jpg
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Last edited by Captkaos; 05-30-2003 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 05-30-2003, 11:12 AM   #23
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Chris, what did you use to paint that frame?
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Old 05-30-2003, 11:32 AM   #24
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AAAAHHHHHHH Mike!! Please tell me You at least painted it or cleaned it up while you were at it?? hahah
I want to remove my bed just for this reason!! haha
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Old 05-30-2003, 12:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by LOHRTBT
AAAAHHHHHHH Mike!! Please tell me You at least painted it or cleaned it up while you were at it?? hahah
I want to remove my bed just for this reason!! haha
That will be the beginning of the end...you will then want to remove the cab to get under it, then you will want the firewall shaved, then you will want to bag it...

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