Any consensus on drip edge sealer?

[pritch]

I need to redo the drip edge in my green '68. I've searched and read about 20 threads on the issue, and it seems to be between the 2 part types or the rubbery stuff. I'm a pretty good caulker, so the rubbery stuff might be easier for me to do, but I also like the idea of the 2 parters being sandable. I guess my question really is this: Which is the best product of each type?

[special-K]

I used the 3M rubbery stuff about 5 years ago and just redid it this summer. I had stripped to clean bare metal,primed,then applied,and painted. I saw it had separated from the outer lip. I was going to cut the edge off and smear more on there,but when I pulled on it I found I could pull it up. I pulled the whole mess up in one big piece...and there was moisture under there. I'm glad I went ahead and peeled it off. My concern with the rubbery stuff is paint cracking. I mean,paint isn't rubbery.
I'd have to look at the tube,but I got stuff from the paint supply house (the other stuff was from NAPA) and it gets hard,just like OEM.

[PAWS 72]

Pritch, WhenI was at the body shop we always used the 3M brand self leveling sealant. I will look in the morning and post back the number on the one I use.

Its good and durable.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

I use 3M's Ultra Pro #8300 and have been pleased with it. It sets up fast and
drys to a firm state. I have not seen any paint cracks after 5 years of application.

I tried the two part but got exaspirated trying to spread it and it is very expensive.

Jim

[PAWS 72]

Originally Posted by JimKshortstep4x4

I use 3M's Ultra Pro #8300 and have been pleased with it. It sets up fast and
drys to a firm state. I have not seen any paint cracks after 5 years of application.

I tried the two part but got exaspirated trying to spread it and it is very expensive.

Jim

This is what I use also.mine has been on the truck just a little over a year.

[GASoline71]

Good info... I need to redo the sealer in my '72.

Gary

[special-K]

The stuff I used was called Sure Seal. It's made by Dominion Sure Seal Ltd. My paint supply house sells top quality products,so I trusted in what they gave me. I never heard of it before. It's from Canada and says "since 1972" and "Worldwide supplier to automotive manufacturers" on the tube.

www.dominionsureseal.com

[Sammy]

Just bought 3M 08500 Panel Adhesive. Thought I would try that. Caulking tube no mixing involved.

[camrycurt]

Having just done this, I totally recommend going with the two part stuff because it is so easy and self levels like magic. I used the Evercoat #824 sealer because it comes in a tube that fits a regular caulking gun so I didn't have to buy the special $100 3M gun that you need for the 3M products. But hands down, two part is the way to go.

I had to do mine twice because I tried it first with the Eastwood High Solids seam sealer and it was a complete disaster. That stuff is probably excellent at sealing seams where appearance is not a factor (like floor and firewall seams), but for the drip rail it was terrible. I couldn't get it flat so in the end it was smeared everywhere and looked like the worst caulking job in the world. I think it would have been water tight, but it looked like complete crap. I tried to convince myself it would be OK for a couple of days before digging it all back out and buying the two part stuff.

With the two part, all you do is lay it in and in two minutes it self levels and in five minutes it cures to a perfect finish. It looks great and I am still amazed and smile every time I see it.

Do yourself a favor and give the two part self leveling stuff a good hard look!

Hope that helps.

[special-K]

Evercoat stuff is good. Did anyone check the link for Dominion Sure Seal? I highly recommend their stuff. The have a full line of high quality products like this. They offer two self-leveling seam sealers. Both are a single part type. Just squeeze it out where you want it and let it level. Ready to paint in very little time.