Cross Over Steering and Difference Between Steering Boxes

[MoreLoveThanMoney]

Need some help. Need to know an easy way to determine between 2wd and 4wd steering boxes. I've got a few boxes but I don't know if they are 2wd or 4wd. I would also like to see some of your pics of your cross over steering set ups and any suggestions you may have in setting one up for a 10 bolt front.
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[GSP7]

I serched and found this below.

completely different sector shafts. one is a press fit with a lock bolt, the other is set up for a pinch bolt. i believe you can swap parts between the two as well.

the input shaft size also changes from the 73 -76 (larger) to the smaller input shaft on the 77-79 with the double flare fittings which changed in 80, but still have the smaller input like the 77-79.

My 4x4chevy box has the pinch bolt no threaded end. I know the cross over uses a press fit with a threaded end on the sector shaft for the big nut on my 99 dodge cross over

I hope this is correct for the chevy 2wd box also. Least the ones if seen are like that

[b454rat]

It's been a bit since I messed with this stuff, but 2wd boxes are indexed every 90 degrees, 4wd only have one index. Other than that, can't help much. My 89 that I SAS'd had the correct shaft, so just had to bolt on the arm....

[OLDCHEV4X4]

2wd boxes move the pitman arm left to right and the arm is held on the sector shaft by a taper and a big nut.
4wd boxes move the pitman arm front to back and the arm is held to the sector shaft by a bolt/nut and the sector shaft is not tapered.
The power steering lines changed to a o ring fitting some where, I'm not sure of the year.
If you have a 10 bolt, your gonna need D44 flat top knuckles to mount the steering arm over on the passenger side.
Its also gonna have to be machined flat and drilled and tapped for the new steering arm.
When you find your D44 knuckles, check to make sure the tapered hole for the center link match. Either up from the bottom or down from the top.

[MoreLoveThanMoney]

OLDCHEV4X4
Thats a lot of helpful information. Thanks for clearing up the box difference for me. As far as the cross over goes, I found Off Road Design sells a kit and all of the pieces. They will also machine the 10 bolt knuckle and even sell a replacement knuckle. I am still curious though about the setups that dont go from the box to the knuckle. I have seen some that go from the box to the cross piece that ties the two knuckles together. I am wondering about how people like that set up and if there is more bump steer and how fast/slow the reaction is.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Originally Posted by MoreLoveThanMoney

OLDCHEV4X4
They will also machine the 10 bolt knuckle

You cant do that. Its gotta be a D44 flat top knuckle or a aftermarket knuckle. The drag link attached to the center link: It puts the drag link at too steep of a angle for me. And I like too keep my links as high as possible, so they are protected more.
Glad I can help ya out.

[wilkin250r]

Ditto to what OLDCHEV4x4 posted, plus a little more info.

From what I've seen, only early D44 knuckles will work. I believe late-model D44 knuckles as well as all 10-bolt knuckles don't have enough material on the top to machine and mount the steering arm. I'm not sure the exact year it changes.

[MoreLoveThanMoney]

From what I'm reading it's 76 and earlier flat top knuckles that work and Off Road Design can machine those for the bolt holes for a flat plate thats the link bolts into. What about the stud kits though that allow you to bolt the center link on the bottom like normal but the stud also provides a mount for the crossover link to bolt on top? No machine work or parts searching then. I appreciate the input. I just dont won't my first trip out to end up in a ditch!!
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[OLDCHEV4X4]

Originally Posted by MoreLoveThanMoney

What about the stud kits though that allow you to bolt the center link on the bottom like normal but the stud also provides a mount for the crossover link to bolt on top?Posted via Mobile Device

The steering arm for the pass side knuckle can come with 1 hole or 2.(along with the 3 holes that attach it to the knuckle). 1 hole is just for crossover steering(drag link). 2 hole is for crossover and also the center link.(high steer) If you go the latter, you also need a arm for the driver side.
The studs,cone washers, and nuts are the same as the stock ones. If you go full high steer, you will need 6 studs, cone washers, nuts total.
Figure out what kind of end you want to use on your drag link and center link so you can tell the vender what hole it has to have. I use 1 ton drag link ends so my hole is tapered for that.
You will also need a different pitman arm for your 2wd steering box. I used a 78 Ford F150 arm and machined the taper bigger for the 1 ton drag link end. There are aftermarket arms too.