modded c10 cross member failure...

[jwcardy]

I actually expected it to be a little lower than this...

[jjzepplin]

So what did you modify?

[Lextech]

Unless you are trying to build a "Prerunner" type of A-D truck----That setup looks unusable to me. At least it is only bolted on and can be easily removed.

Jeff

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

So what did you modify?

x2
What did you modify?

[fabguy]

Once you lower the rear, it will bring the step lower also. It wont get it on the ground, but it will be lower.

[jwcardy]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

So what did you modify?

I narrowed a 3rd gen c10 front cross member to fit with my 53 frame rails by roughly an inch and a half. I plan to bag this truck. I knew the c10 cross member "dipped" low but I kind of figured it would be a little lower...This thread is more of a rant.

Originally Posted by Lextech

Unless you are trying to build a "Prerunner" type of A-D truck----That setup looks unusable to me. At least it is only bolted on and can be easily removed.

Jeff

What do you mean unusable? The rest of the front end isnt even bolted on yet

Originally Posted by fabguy

Once you lower the rear, it will bring the step lower also. It wont get it on the ground, but it will be lower.

Yeah that is what a couple of buddys and I were talking about last night, I just had hoped that it would be a little lower to start out.

[mr48chev]

I took me a moment but it's a C-10 crossmember on and AD truck. It looks like you have quite a gap between the frame rail and the crossmember at the bottom of the rail (s).

10/15 years ago there was an article in one of the truck magazines about notching the C series truck crossmembers to allow the frame to drop down an inch and a half into the crossmember. This was for C-10 C-20 trucks but it should work for that.


I think some of the guys over on the 67/72 side are reworking the topside of the crossmembers to do that and get the truck lower and maintain pan clearance.

You are also going to have to have the bottom of the frame rail level and flat and the lip that angles off it will have to be flattened or cut off no matter which way you install the crossmember. The top mounting surface of the crossmember has to sit flush with the bottom of the frame rail.

[jwcardy]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I took me a moment but it's a C-10 crossmember on and AD truck. It looks like you have quite a gap between the frame rail and the crossmember at the bottom of the rail (s).

10/15 years ago there was an article in one of the truck magazines about notching the C series truck crossmembers to allow the frame to drop down an inch and a half into the crossmember. This was for C-10 C-20 trucks but it should work for that.


I think some of the guys over on the 67/72 side are reworking the topside of the crossmembers to do that and get the truck lower and maintain pan clearance.

You are also going to have to have the bottom of the frame rail level and flat and the lip that angles off it will have to be flattened or cut off no matter which way you install the crossmember. The top mounting surface of the crossmember has to sit flush with the bottom of the frame rail.

There is no gap between the crossmember and the bottom of the frame rails.


I assure you it is flush. If I were to notch the crossmember like your pic then the top mounting holes on the crossmember will be higher than the frame rails.

Here is what I have been going by
http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/63-8...rade/index.htm

[mr48chev]

True but you could also weld or bolt a piece of angle on the top of the frame rail to compensate for that.


Here is a link http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/chopcross.html To one that is pancaked. It came from this thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461766

The magazine article I read didn't call for pancaking the whole thing though just notching it for the frame to drop down.

[jwcardy]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

True but you could also weld or bolt a piece of angle on the top of the frame rail to compensate for that.


Here is a link http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/chopcross.html To one that is pancaked. It came from this thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461766

The magazine article I read didn't call for pancaking the whole thing though just notching it for the frame to drop down.

Yeah...I read that too. I may just "Z" the frame

[Chris.]

Originally Posted by jwcardy

Yeah...I read that too. I may just "Z" the frame

do you think if you were to cut the entire cross member out flush with the frame rails plate the outer sections and weld a piece of 3 x 3 x 3/16 tube between them that might help or are the outsides too low too? good luck and let me know what you do

[OrrieG]

Might want to trial fit a block and oil pan to make sure you don't solve one problem only to find another later on. I believe on most C series trucks the bottom of the pan was close to flush with the crossmember bottom, it acted as a quasi skid plate.