Removing Front Drive Shaft 72 K20???

[72longbed]

IS there some secret tool that mechanics use to get to those four bolts that hold the front shaft to the Transfer Case yoke??? Damn!!!! I removed the exhaust from that side where it runs through the crossmember ... got every 1/2 inch wrench I owned (a lot) a busted knuckles and cursed for hours. The front U-joint was a piece of cake ... done, off, no problem. But the rear one is still there.

If anybody who has 'the secret' to removing those well engineered almost BLIND bolts .... I'd really appreciate the helpful ideas.

Thanks,
72longbed

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 72longbed

IS there some secret tool that mechanics use to get to those four bolts that hold the front shaft to the Transfer Case yoke??? Damn!!!! I removed the exhaust from that side where it runs through the crossmember ... got every 1/2 inch wrench I owned (a lot) a busted knuckles and cursed for hours. The front U-joint was a piece of cake ... done, off, no problem. But the rear one is still there.

If anybody who has 'the secret' to removing those well engineered almost BLIND bolts .... I'd really appreciate the helpful ideas.

Thanks,
72longbed

try removing the transmission cover, should give you better access to those four bolt.....you can thank me later

[72longbed]

Transmission cover?????? Do you mean the Pan? These bolts are no where near the pan. They go in from the back of the transfer case yoke.

I have an NP205.

Confused on your advice??

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 72longbed

Transmission cover?????? Do you mean the Pan? These bolts are no where near the pan. They go in from the back of the transfer case yoke.

I have an NP205.

Confused on your advice??

open the drivers door, and look between the seats, under the dash. the high hump transmission cover is held on by 8-10 bolts. accessable from the top, should have nut plates underneath

two wrenches, front and back of the flanges, then roll the truck alittle to acess the other two bolts

[odog]

I agree, take the high hump out and you will be much happier. I had to do this and it made it much easier.

[Stocker]

Don't shoot me.... when I removed mine a few years back, I just used a couple endwrenches and took a whole lot of very little bites. Didn't have to remove anything for access, just laid under the truck on a creeper.

[snj8198]

ah, you must have a fixed yoke? i have a flanged front output on my 205 and the four bolts zip off with a gear wrench quick. hardly a dirty finger to remove much less a dirty word

[DirtyLarry]

I don't see where auto vs. manual really matters. It is a tight squeeze either way as the distance between the yoke and tcase doesn't change. My old '72 K5 Blazer with a TH350 was no harder or easier to drop the shaft
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[72longbed]

Ok Dirt ... I won't argue with you.

Any opinion on my questions above?

Thanks.
72

[71swb4x4]

The driveshaft will turn easily. It should turn freely without jacking the front end up. Keep the transfer case in 2wd, and make sure the front hubs aren't locked.

[72longbed]

UPDATE: Front shaft OUT!

Took out the hump .... low and behold there it all was, starring right back up at me. Did it on the ground (in the cab mostly), by myself, no jacks, no muss ... no fuss.

One thing I will pass on to others who want to do it this way. I was lucky that my 'wall to wall' carpet already had a split right down the middle at the center of the hump. This did make it a lot easier to just part the carpet and get in there to remove the bolts for the hump. I had previously cut the carpet in that area to do some sheet metal repair on the hump, and install the B & M shifter. So ... if you have nice carpet in your truck ... be prepared to remove it first to do this, or put a cut from the firewall edge all the way back to under the seat above your hump (not the hump on your back, the one in the truck)

I will need to find more of the reflective heat blanket material I had installed over the hump ... I kinda cut it up pretty bad to remove it too. So the hump will stay unattached until I get my driveshaft cut and re-install it. I do agree, to have the shaft throughly inspected while out to take care of any problems at this time, and to use all high quality H.D. Spicer parts to repair.

Thanks to all for the great ideas ... I hope this Thread can help others in the future too.

72longbed