Rear axle identification and driveshaft?

[Denee007]

Hi! I need a driveshaft, and just wondering how do I go about making this happen? I know the axle is a 12 bolt, but how do I go about getting a driveshaft? I have the driveshaft out of the 72 Impala with the correct front yoke, and is way too long, but of course has the incorrect rear part. IT has a constant velocity joint with a flange on the rear.
Thanks~ ; )

[yossarian19]

My plan is to get the front & rear parts I need & a tape measure, then bring the pieces to a driveline shop and say "I need these two ends on a shaft 37 inches long" or whatever. Maybe call them first and see exactly where they want me to measure.
Failing that, buddies of mine are telling me to tow the truck to the driveline shop & let them do it themselves. Probably the best way is to drop it off, then if anything doesn't fit it *cant* be your fault & you only get it back once.

[Denee007]

yeah, I was kind of afraid of that~ have to get a wrecker to get it to the driveshaft shop. I'll start looking for a driveshaft shop and see what they say. thanks!!!!

Originally Posted by yossarian19

My plan is to get the front & rear parts I need & a tape measure, then bring the pieces to a driveline shop and say "I need these two ends on a shaft 37 inches long" or whatever. Maybe call them first and see exactly where they want me to measure.
Failing that, buddies of mine are telling me to tow the truck to the driveline shop & let them do it themselves. Probably the best way is to drop it off, then if anything doesn't fit it *cant* be your fault & you only get it back once.

[mknittle]

I always require rearend identifacation.
iuse a shop that only does drive lines. You will have to know the width of your yolks and the diamter of the bores for the caps. It would help if you have the old u-joints.

[Denee007]

er, the original is long gone, but maybe a good driveshaft shop could inform me of how to obtain what they may need. I know I can't just walk in O'reilly's to get a rear u-joint~ they always require an application. Funny, they still ask me for what it's going on and try to look the part up~ I say "Guys!" Doah!

Originally Posted by mknittle

I always require rearend identifacation.
iuse a shop that only does drive lines. You will have to know the width of your yolks and the diamter of the bores for the caps. It would help if you have the old u-joints.

[hyatt]

slide your yoke into the trans up to point that it has been running You can tell by rust on unused part of yoke Take a tape and measure from center of ujoint to center of ujoint area in rearend yoke Measure distance across rear yoke and go to parts store and get a ujoint to fit the rear Go to a napa or a major store not autozone or those types where they have people that can look up things without an application When you get a ujoint and the lenth between ft and rear any drive shop can cut you what you need

[Denee007]

Thank you hyatt! that sounds logical~ thank you!

Originally Posted by hyatt

slide your yoke into the trans up to point that it has been running You can tell by rust on unused part of yoke Take a tape and measure from center of ujoint to center of ujoint area in rearend yoke Measure distance across rear yoke and go to parts store and get a ujoint to fit the rear Go to a napa or a major store not autozone or those types where they have people that can look up things without an application When you get a ujoint and the lenth between ft and rear any drive shop can cut you what you need

[hyatt]

make sure weight in on axle (sitting on ground or rear on jackstands )as lenth will change as suspension moves

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Denee007

er, the original is long gone, but maybe a good driveshaft shop could inform me of how to obtain what they may need. I know I can't just walk in O'reilly's to get a rear u-joint~ they always require an application. Funny, they still ask me for what it's going on and try to look the part up~ I say "Guys!" Doah!

thatis normal This may help you can go by the yolks and liength.
this may help. but ignore the way they measure liength{on another page}

http://driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML...D%20Guide.html

I would guess your u-joints would be spicer 1310s they are most common on cars and 1/2 ton trucks. but once in a while an odd ball size pops up.{like my jeep i welded that one together myself.

[Denee007]

That really helped~ judging by my rough measurements of 1 1/6" x 3 1/4" I need a 1310~ Now I'll know that I appear what I'm talking about when I go to NAPA! You're really nice to have around!

Originally Posted by mknittle

thatis normal This may help you can go by the yolks and liength.
this may help. but ignore the way they measure liength{on another page}

http://driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML...D%20Guide.html

I would guess your u-joints would be spicer 1310s they are most common on cars and 1/2 ton trucks. but once in a while an odd ball size pops up.{like my jeep i welded that one together myself.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Denee007

er, the original is long gone, but maybe a good driveshaft shop could inform me of how to obtain what they may need. I know I can't just walk in O'reilly's to get a rear u-joint~ they always require an application. Funny, they still ask me for what it's going on and try to look the part up~ I say "Guys!" Doah!

duplacate post. my finger stuttered

[mknittle]

oops forgot somthing.

[Denee007]

oh, that's nice! So I would put the front yoke into the th350 tranny, put it where it kind of needs to be, then measure accordingly like you show in your pic! that seems easy enough! Now to determine the axle yoke to get the correct u-joint~ hmm.

Originally Posted by mknittle

oops forgot somthing.

[mknittle]

glad to be some help

[Russell Ashley]

Deene, I'd call the driveshaft shop and ask them how they wanted it measured. When I had mine made I measured like the illustration, from bearing center to bearing center and the shop wouldn't take that measurement. They had me measure from the end of the transmission tailshaft to the rear yoke. They said they did it like this so that they could be sure that the front yoke had the correct amount of depth into the transmission. It must work as my driveshaft fits perfectly.

When I converted my previous truck to 4X4 I had three driveshafts made at a different shop and they accepted the bearing to bearing measurement, so it seems to depend on the shop.

[Denee007]

Hey Russell! I spoke to a man yesterday at a Houston based driveshaft shop. Of course which is always on the other side of town! I told him the measurments of the rear yoke, he said, that's a 1310, (of course, I knew that!), then the way he told me to measure was from the output shaft itself on the tranny to the flat surface of the yoke, you know like where the little brackets that hold the caps in place. Kind of makes sense. I came up with 55.25". I'm taking the driveshaft to him this morning and he'll have it back to me tomorrow, about 125.oo for the service of which I thought sounded very fair! I worry too much! I thought getting a driveshaft was going to be like my windshield! lol

[mknittle]

$125.00 That is about right!

[Denee007]

When I got to the driveshaft shop, this was outside. A '53 panel truck? Looks in distress

[OrrieG]

$125 for new rear yoke and balance is more than fair, I assume he will check the front universal. Glad to see you are happy and moving forward again!

[Russell Ashley]

Not really relevant, but I just had a "DUUH" moment and want to correct it myself before anyone catches it. In my last post I said that I measured the driveshafts from bearing to bearing when I had my diveshafts made for my 4X4. After thinking about it it occurred to me that all of the driveshafts bolted directly to a yoke, so bearing to bearing would be the only way to measure those. The slip joint was in the driveshaft, not at the front like a two wheel drive vehicle.
My excuse is, I'm 71, got a bad case of CRS, and I had those done ten years ago, LOL.

[Denee007]

71~ cool! When I was in my 20's, I used to think someone in their 60's/70's were old, but now that I'm 57, almost 58, I think of someone in their 70's as "middle age"! or when I hear myself say, "a long time ago", now is getting to be just that, a long time ago! It's funny to hear my 5 y/o grandaughter say "a long time ago"! lol Hey wait a minute, you haven't been around long enough to say "a long time ago"! I guess it's just relative to your age and how young you feel in your heart and what one is able to accomplish physically and mentally. Physically, things are definitely becoming tougher! ; )

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Not really relevant, but I just had a "DUUH" moment and want to correct it myself before anyone catches it. In my last post I said that I measured the driveshafts from bearing to bearing when I had my diveshafts made for my 4X4. After thinking about it it occurred to me that all of the driveshafts bolted directly to a yoke, so bearing to bearing would be the only way to measure those. The slip joint was in the driveshaft, not at the front like a two wheel drive vehicle.
My excuse is, I'm 71, got a bad case of CRS, and I had those done ten years ago, LOL.

[OrrieG]

This morning I drove my 19 YO granddaughter home from her last high school test to graduate. I took my Chevelle so all her friends and her would remember this occasion and getting to leave in style in grandpas hot rod!

Denee you are right, age is mental if you take care of yourself. My wife and I are blessed with good genes that make us look 15 years younger and except for worn out body parts from living we are in pretty good shape. Even the Who are rethinking the lines "hope I die before I get old"!

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Not really relevant, but I just had a "DUUH" moment and want to correct it myself before anyone catches it. In my last post I said that I measured the driveshafts from bearing to bearing when I had my diveshafts made for my 4X4. After thinking about it it occurred to me that all of the driveshafts bolted directly to a yoke, so bearing to bearing would be the only way to measure those. The slip joint was in the driveshaft, not at the front like a two wheel drive vehicle.
My excuse is, I'm 71, got a bad case of CRS, and I had those done ten years ago, LOL.

I caught that but I figured we know what you ment.

[Denee007]

Thanks Orrie! I'm not an expert on U-joints, but the front felt very smooth, no rough spots. The surface of the yoke that goes into the transmission looks to be ok too.
Yes, moving forward is great!

[Daze57]

it takes me once all day what i was able to do all day once ( or sumthin like dat )