Diesel guys

[old Rusty C10]

here in the northeast it gets cold this time of year. My CUCV doesn't seem to like starting . Im changing out the fuel filter and I was thinking about a block heater.. What are you guys running and how do you install it? Im really not thrilled with the ebay ones that want you to drop out a freeze out plug.. anyone have any ideas or comments? part numbers and distributors?

[krazy_texan]

I have one that goes inline the lower radiator hose on my gas truck my understanding is that the freeze plug ones are the best though but I think those are all opinions
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[bigbuc]

The universal one that goes in the lower radiator hose would be the easiest. You can get one pretty cheap on amazon.
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[68panelman]

The purpose of a block heater is to do exactly that, those radiator ones are a waste of time & electric. Your truck should of came from the factory with one. I would search around for a 110 plug under the hood & rad support.

[spencer_41188]

dont have a diesel but it shure is nice haveing heat right away
http://www.tractorsupply.com/magnetic-heater-0191958
got this heater on the oil pan. it heats the hole engine up.

[old Rusty C10]

Originally Posted by spencer_41188

dont have a diesel but it shure is nice haveing heat right away
http://www.tractorsupply.com/magnetic-heater-0191958
got this heater on the oil pan. it heats the hole engine up.

Last night I went and b ought this and attached it to the bottom of the pan and let it sit overnight.. now we shall see how this goes... im also going check out the freeze out plugs to see if they have a heater that is just missing the wire

[86c20]

If u are going to do it do it right and get a good 1500 watt freeze plug type. Put it in the middle plug on drivers side and plug it in on a timer or a switch so it comes on about 90 before u start. Should run about 100 bycks. Puting it in is ez drain coolent out knock plug so the ti turns 90 degress out and grab with plyers and boilt in the heater. The oil heaters are not as good do to the fact that it will not heat the hole block well
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[Cheng]

It is my personal preference to run a block heater and an oil pan heater in cold weather.

Both heaters will help your engine starting problem independantly of each other.

Keeping your cooling water warm will help the fuel ignite when injected.

Keeping your oil warm will help the engine spin over faster in cold weather and will also provide better oil flow and thus increased lubrication during the crucial moments following start-up.

By using both of these heaters together your engine will start like it was a warm summer day and will be fully lubricated and protected upon startup.

This may sound like overkill; but at work we keep our 9500HP Generators warmed up with the water and oil both at 160F so we can go from stopped to 100% load in only 30 seconds without damaging the equipment.

[Rubble]

If you can plumb in a circulating heater,it will work WAY better than just a regular block heater.All the block heater does is heat up a small area of coolant,but the circulating heater will warm up the entire block! Trust me on this one,it gets cold up here!! I have circulating heaters on anything that's not in the heated shop& they start great.When hooking up the circulating heater,make sure your on the engine side of thermostat & the heater is below the water level & you should be fine...
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[D13]

Every 6.2 has a freeze plug heater from the factory. Works well. You don 't want a tank heater, no interest in getting that huge radiator warm.
Your truck will start without them, make sure you have good glows, 60G's on a separate switch and give them a few extra seconds before the crank.
Make sure you're running a winter fuel blend.
I've heard of people installing a Cummins intake heater grid with great results.

[hatzie]

If all 8 glow plugs are operating properly she will crank right up.

Get a freeze plug heater, if you don't already have one, and install it on the LH side in a center plug. If the freeze plug heater is missing the cord (my M1008 was) you can buy one of those separately. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...rentProductId= Want to double the warmup speed? Add one to the RH side. Tank heaters are easy to install but are only effective when both of the heater hoses both run to the engine.

At -10F the block will be very close to operating temp 45 minutes after you plug it in. The winter oil should circulate just fine from the radiated heat off the 180`F block. Pan heaters used to burn the oil film to the sheet metal above the bulk of the oil. I can live without extra carbon in my oil.

[zaccaglin]

I have one stock in my truck and its located on the bottom drivers side of the block
Bear the lower powerstwaring mount and by the oil pan. Only thing is I've yet to use it this winter. Reason being is I swapped my glow plugs out to be manual rather than automatic and I also put in new glow plugs. (Acdelco 60G) I just flip the switch for about 30-45 seconds turn over the starter and she fires right up. My coldest start this year was 21degs F.
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[jitteryguy]

the freeze plug type is your best bet but with good glow plug's it should start right up, when it's real cold you may have to cycle em a couple of time's. I start'd all my HMWWV's and SRATS every morn'n with no problems last winter , (some morn'ns were 10 below) with just glow plug's.

[Rubble]

Originally Posted by jitteryguy

the freeze plug type is your best bet but with good glow plug's it should start right up, when it's real cold you may have to cycle em a couple of time's. I start'd all my HMWWV's and SRATS every morn'n with no problems last winter , (some morn'ns were 10 below) with just glow plug's.

Are you talkin -10 celsius?? I have a hard time believing a 6.2 is gonna start at 10 below farenhiet without being plugged in...I know any ones I have won't.And they have good glow plugs and batteries too....
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[old Rusty C10]

ok next question last night I put the heater I bought on the block ( bottom of the oil pan and left it on all night.. it was around freezing out maybe as low as 30.. today I started the truck it was difficult to start, smoked like a fiend and the valve that had cleared itself up sounded like it was sticking again for a while. I did not move the truck.. Am I going to be better off with the one that hooks in the lower hose? Am I supposed to be leaving the thing plugged in all night or should I be plugging it in for a half hour in the AM or something before I use the truck? these diesels are such a pain in the butt !!

[Rubble]

Old rusty,if you just used the magnetic oil pan heater and no coolant heater it's probably not enough to warm your truck.Make sure your glow plugs are all working good too,that will make a big difference too. I would suggest looking on the diesel forum,those guys are very helpful when it comes to 6.2s. Back to the coolant heaters,that's why I like the circulating type,only needs plugged in a couple hours even in -20c weather,the block heater will need more time,especially if the engine is cold when you plug it in.
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[Rubble]

Also should mention too,what weight of engine oil are you running too,something like a 0-30 or similar is good for cooler weather.
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[INSIDIOUS '86]

The oil is sitting in the pan. Not warming the engine. It helps cold starts by getting your Iol temp to spec quicker reducing wear. If you get the water hot it will help it start a lil and reduce warm up time and wear.

I would agree that your glow plugs Prob need to be replaced and switched. The 6.2 I just pulled out of my k5 has a plug block heater.
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[Rubble]

Gave you the wrong address,it's the diesel place ,not diesel forum...
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[86c20]

the plugs in my 6.2 are going already have one dead in drivers bank. but i have them ona switch and leve them on a little longer and she has always started even with some nasty nor easters that we get hear.

[special-K]

Sounds like you have a dead glow plug or two. That cold cylinder will make it run ruff and even give a knocking sound. You may also need a new controller. It may not be allowing enough glow time. They go bad in different ways. Does the truck crank slow,like the batteries are weak? cold motor will crank like that with not enough pre-heat.
Does your Blazer have the freeze plug with heater connection? Those are the best way to go. That way GM designed them to start. I have both 6.2s and 6.5TDs and it's been a rare time I've plugged in to heat. The glow plug controller won't let the plugs cycle long at all if you do it a second time or more,if the plugs are heating much at all. On my 6.5TD one cycle doesn't seem to be enough. I'm sure I have a dead plug or two (or the dang wire keeps coming off). For whatever reason,that controller gives a complete second cycle and she comes to life like it's 90 out. Check that your wires are connecting good on the plugs and also check/clean any corrosion. I cut the plastic off and crimp the connectors to make them tighter,too.

Here are some good sites:

www.thedieselpage.com

www.thedieselplace.com

My be something here: http://www.thedieselpage.com/t&rguide.htm

[old Rusty C10]

I have ordered a set of glow plugs for the truck. The controller is brand new as is the card.I will replace those this week..im running the Shell Rotellat 15W40 oil as per a suggestion by the truck parts store.. I was also told Delvac is good.. I was told to run some Lucas in there too but that is a way off as id have to change the filter

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

I have ordered a set of glow plugs for the truck. The controller is brand new as is the card.I will replace those this week..im running the Shell Rotellat 15W40 oil as per a suggestion by the truck parts store.. I was also told Delvac is good.. I was told to run some Lucas in there too but that is a way off as id have to change the filter

5W40 API CG, CH, CJ... oil is a better choice for cold starts in the winter. The first # is your cold pour weight. At 210F 5W40, 10W40, & 15W40 have the same weight.

[special-K]

It's just not all that technical. If your glow plugs are working right your truck will start in the cold with whatever oil you have and w/o plugging it in. Once you get into single digits the big issue is fuel gelling and there's nothing you can really do about that. That's the only time I use a fuel conditioner and I keep my tank full. The heater can help,but does nothing for the fuel in the tank and lines.

[Rubble]

Originally Posted by special-K

It's just not all that technical. If your glow plugs are working right your truck will start in the cold with whatever oil you have and w/o plugging it in. Once you get into single digits the big issue is fuel gelling and there's nothing you can really do about that. That's the only time I use a fuel conditioner and I keep my tank full. The heater can help,but does nothing for the fuel in the tank and lines.

There is something you can do about fuel gelling,buy winter fuel!!!Any trucker will tell you that,I ran 48 states & 10 provinces for about 8 years in a semi, the only time I ever had fuel gelling issues was when I had summer fuel from the southern states and didn't have a chance to buy winter fuel.It's got to be pretty cold for good winter fuel to gel,anybody running north will probably say that.As far as oil,take a jug of 30w,15-40 & 0-30 at -40C and try to pour each one out,there is a difference......There is a thread on this on the red power forum.
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