72 drivetrain and front suspenson swap into a 69

[tjmeadows]

Ok, so this is a lot to take in but here is where I am. My 69 cst10 with the factory 307 and manual 3 speed transmission with overdrive is giving me some issuses. First of all, i got the engine started and running after new Hei distributor, plugs,wires, 2 brl carb rebuild,new fuel lines,fuel pickup, and fuel pump. I also got the OD functioning but the previous owner had the gear combition on the column reversed, 2/3 being closest to driver and 1/R being away from you. Simple fix right, just switch the linkages? Wrong, upon inspection i had one original linkage and one homemade, 3/8 square tubing custom bent piece-o-crap. so I found some OEM linkages thanks to a fellow forum member, no sweat, just slap them on and be done right? Wrong again, the lever that mounts on the splined shifter shaft that comes out of the trans was welded on the 1/r shaft, not only welded, but in the incorrect position to allow the OEM linkages the correct travel clearance. Now what?? These transmissions with overdrive are not easily located or cheap. Also, even though i got 307 running it isnt running right, after timing adjustments and carb adjustments i still con not make this motor run good on both top and bottom ends,What the hell?? I'm guessing cam, lifter or head troubles. Anyway,back to the title problem. I have access to a 72 cheyenne, air cab, with a 350, 350 turbo, disc brakes and power steering all of which my 69 does not have. Why you ask don't i just restore this truck, the comparison of the body condition is not close, the 72 is very rough inside and out, plus i have a sentimental value to the 69, being it was my first truck. So here is my question, is it sensible to pull the 350/350 turbo out and put it in my truck? Also the steering componants and disc brakes, how much of a task am i taking on? The 69 with the manual trans has a front mounted engine mount, also mounted by the clutch and no cross member under the trans. The 72 should have alll the correct mounts to swap over to my 69 correct? Any other issuses I should anticipate? The donor truck has less than 500 miles on a rebuilt trans, and according to the owner the 350 is strong, not smoking, and just needs a coil and battery in order to fire up. The truck is priced incredibly cheap from a trusted family friend, so i have no reason to doubt the fact of no mechanical issuses with the drivetrain. Do i go for the swap, or simply rebuild the 307, pull the trans out and have a new shafts on the trans installed to accept new levers so i can install the OEM linkages, boy, i'm stuck and any help would be appreciated.Thanks, Jace

[tjmeadows]

Anybody with thoughts??
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[rmmurphy]

[I] would buy the 72 and do the swap. The hei and all the parts you put on the 307 will bolt on to the 350. It also has everything you need for p/s p/b. all of that stuff will bolt right on also. Just use 72 for the parts goldmine that it is.

[MusicMan70]

tjmeadows, I'd go for the swap and then decide later how much time you wish to put into getting the OD correct or working. You may even wish to sell the OD later for parts. To have a running truck is much more fun and the work involved seems about the same as getting your OD correct. Yes you'll have more power too! Good Luck!

[tjmeadows]

If I go that route, looks like I would have a spare 307, and the much wanted 3 speed manual with OD just lying around, hint hint. Also would have a 72 air cab with all the accessories laying around :-)
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[cubber]

The suspension swap is easy. I put all 72 running gear under my 69, and am very pleased. I ordered a suspension rebuild kit from Classic Parts, but it came with a bunch of crap that I didn't need. You might want to replace the ball joints and any loose bushings.

[tjmeadows]

Did you have to covert your 6 lug spindles into the 72 5 lug?
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[c10srule]

you can use the crank and rods out of the 307 and put in a 350 block later to make a 327, just use 327 pistons, use 72 ball joints in your control arms so you can use the 72 spindles and you will have to use all the steering linkage, then you can swap the rearends out to have 5 lug or buy aftermarket 6 lug rotors and keep your old rearend in and still have 6 lug on your truck, something to think about is the 72 rearend is about 1.5" wider, having the whole donor truck makes anything you do much simpler as all the parts will swap onto the 69 and you dont have to chase down odd and end pieces, have fun with your build

[SS Tim]

Looks like everyone pretty much agrees. Like I said before buy the '72 for parts. But I'd try and get the engine started and running in that chassis before doing anything major to your truck. If you have the full five lug set up front and rear change those over as well. You will like power disc/drum brakes. The axle ratio with the O/D from the factory as you will remember is 4.10. That will not be much fun on the freeway.
If you want to try and retain the O/D it can be done and the parts you need should be the same as the three speed for arms, shafts and linkage. Might even try doing it in stages like engine swap, trans work or swap then the suspension and axle as the last parts off to keep the chassis a roller as long as possible. Just remember to keep the 4.10s if you choose to run the O/D or maybe a set of 3.73s. The 4.10 gears should swap into the longer 5 lug housing but will need to be set up correctly.

[tjmeadows]

When did the rear end get wider? Anyone know why?
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[tjmeadows]

Wow thanks for the info, this is my third 69, but my first major overhaul...
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[tjmeadows]

Anyone got anything on the change from the motor mounts on the 307 with manual tyranny, compared to 350 with automatic? Current motor mounts are towards the front of the block and by the clutch, with no trans cross member, while the 350 has center motor mounts and tranny cross member??
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[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by tjmeadows

Anyone got anything on the change from the motor mounts on the 307 with manual tyranny, compared to 350 with automatic? Current motor mounts are towards the front of the block and by the clutch, with no trans cross member, while the 350 has center motor mounts and tranny cross member??
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Manual trans. installations use four point mounts as you have. Two on the block and two on the bellhousing with the trans tailshaft unsupported. The automatic uses a three point system with two on the engine and one further back under the tailshaft. The switch involves removing the manual crossmember and adding the auto trans. crossmember at the rear. No bigggie just work.

[tjmeadows]

As usual Tim you're right on point with your help, thanks everyone, feel free to add any other pointers I need to pay attention to...
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[tjmeadows]

New question my buddy brought up last night, if I swap to automatic, swap columns, what do I do with my clutch pedal and how does that work? Isn't the brake/clutch pedals on same the same pivot rod?
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[WIDESIDE72]

You can remove the clutch
Pedal from the original set up or swap the auto assembly directly in. The 69 rears narrower than the 72. In general I have found that 6 lug rear axles are wider than 5. No problem though as I believe it is less than a couple of inches, unless you are trying to reuse expensive super wide custom wheels.

I swapped a whole 72 front crossmember and coil rear axle out of a lwb chassis onto a 69 SWB chassis.
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[WIDESIDE72]

Here is another option: how about getting the 72 running lime you want, pull the body, clean and paint the chassis then pull the 69 body and put it on the 72 chassis? It would be easier than swapping everything separately.
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[tjmeadows]

Including disc brakes and steering box?
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[tjmeadows]

Think the body swap would be easier?
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[tjmeadows]

What issues could I expect swapping the front clip and bed?
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[tjmeadows]

Maybe I can just get rid of the 69 and build the 72 Cheyenne???
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[tjmeadows]

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[WIDESIDE72]

I thought you mentioned that the body on the 72 was "bad".
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[tjmeadows]

Its pretty rough.... I'm on the fence about everything....
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[tjmeadows]

Bump
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