How do I remove the rear brake drum?

[Sundy]

The thread search thing isn't working so I'll just ask.

How do I remove the rear brake drum?

I have brake fluid running down the inside of my driver side rear tire. I tried to remove the drum last night to look at it and...it just won't come off. I took the parking brake off. What else? There's a slot that I'm guessing needs to be liked up with something and then...I do something to the something it's lined up with.

Plese help before I break my brake.

[63chevy4x4]

remove the little rubber plug (if its still there) on the bottom of the brake backing plate and back off the self adjuster, you can just use a flat screw driver, there is a special tool for it, if your not sure wich way to turn start turing youll find out haha. then try hitting it from the back side with a dead blow hammer, you might wana hit it with the torch( not litteraly) I have had to have some drums almost red hot in the center to get em off, also use a liberal amount of penetrating oil.

[WhippinSaw]

You Shouldn't have to but you can try loosening the star adjuster for the brake shoes accessed by removing the grommet on rear of backing plate.

[aerotruk63]

The star wheel mentioned is 5.110 in the picture below. The inspection oval slot is near the 6 o'clock position on the backing plate.

[Sundy]

Excellent info, thank you.

Also, I've ordered the 1963 shop manual. I only have the 66 suplimental and it tells me to look in the 63.

Much appreciated!

[jayoldschool]

If you can spin the wheel (in the air/neutral), backing of the star wheel won't do much (unless the shoe has put a groove in the drum). The drum is likely rusted on the axle. You can usually get it off by hitting the face of the drum where it is backed by the axle flange between the lugs. Spray a good penetrant around the axle end where it passes through the drum and keep working it. Sometimes on the really tough ones, you will need to get the torch out to heat the face of the drum to get it to pop off the axle.

Once you replace that leaking cylinder, do a new combi kit and new shoes. Both sides.

[Sundy]

OK, I got time to look at this tonight and there is no rubber plug on the backing plate and there is no knockout either. I don't see a way to access the star adjuster. There is a large screw/bolt thing at the top...do I remove that?

[earl84]

I did mine about 4 weeks ago. Mine had access holes on the drums themselves on the right side drum and on the left side drum it had a stamped area that was just like the access hole on the right side. I knocked that stamped area out with a chisel and gained access to the star wheel. It knocked off pretty easily, actually. Of course, it gets knocked into the drum, but you just pick out the piece once the drum comes off.
The new hardware kit I got had rubber plugs that went into the holes when I put them back together. BTW, I had a heck of a time bleeding the brakes, but that was solved by using a pressure bleeder. It was like magic after fighting it for a long time.

[LostMy65]

The star access is toward the bottom.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Sundy]

There's a small thing at about 8:00 in the pic above about the size of the head of a nail. Could the star wheel be behind that? I don't want to break something off that should remain.

[Blue666]

Originally Posted by Sundy

There's a small thing at about 8:00 in the pic above about the size of the head of a nail. Could the star wheel be behind that? I don't want to break something off that should remain.

You can use a set of heavy side cutters (wire cutters) to cut the head off that guide pin. There is one on both sides, one @ 8'oclock & one @ 4' oclock.

This will allow the brake shoes to free up from the backing plate. The drum should come loose then.

New guide pins are available from the local parts stores and are often included in most rebuild kits.

Good Luck.

[Lugnutz65]

When it comes time to adjust the brakes, this is what worked for me. I didn't have or need one of the measuring tools to measure the inside diameter of the drum. This method is very simple.

Step 1. If the drum has a little friction from the brake shoes when you slide it on, that's good! Try to adjust the star wheel so there is at least a little friction, but not too much. Do the same for both rear wheels.

Step 2. Mount your tires

Step 3. Chock the front wheels. Put a jack under the differential and lift the rear axle up enough so BOTH rear tires are off the ground. Have a helper REPEATEDLY press and release the brake pedal WHILE you spin the rear tire in REVERSE. You should hear and maybe even feel the star wheel adjusting the brake shoes to the correct tension. Do this on the other side. Repeat the process UNTIL YOU CAN NO LONGER TURN THE TIRE BY HAND while the brakes are on. Always check your newly installed/adjusted brakes in a safe area in case of unexpected failure.

Why does this work? Well, the star wheel is a design feature that SELF ADJUSTS the brake shoes - but it is only activated by applying the brakes while driving the truck in reverse. We all back up our vehicles several times per day, so the mechanism will keep the brakes properly adjusted as long as they are properly maintained.

[earl84]

No, that is a guide pin (probably not the correct term) that a spring slides over on the other side. The star wheel is at the 6 oclock position. I did not access mine from the back side, I accessed it through the drum itself.
And it does look a lot like a nail, haha.

[LostMy65]

It's about a 3/4" slot toward the bottom.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jayoldschool]

You can see the location of the slot for the star wheel in the GM parts diagram above. It's the slot located above part 5.188 "cover".

What I said still applies, though...

[Sundy]

GOT IT OFF!!

I guess the penetrating oil I've been spraying this thing with for two days finally worked. I see the star drive thing now, accessible from the front drum slot. I didn't understand what everyone was describing, I thought it was just a bit type you just turned it with a screwdriver. Now I see that I needed to push the teeth from the top or bottom to rotate the shaft of the drive moving the pads in or out. Learned a word.
The white gunk at 9:00 and 3:00 are spider cocoons. This thing is a mess.

Now I need to identify the part I need to order. Thanks for the support!

[Hx16457]

In his defense, I have a 1972 rear end and there are no slots/rubber boots/access holes on mine either.
Spay the drum from the back at the seam where the drum meets the back plate like you are trying to float that thing (WD40), tap (with a BFH) all around the back edge of the drum spraying it all he way around. Get the fluid inside the seam! Let it sit a little while to give the spay a chance.
Get your mind right...." This thing is coming off "!!!!!!!
Git'R done!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by Hx16457

In his defense, I have a 1972 rear end and there are no slots/rubber boots/access holes on mine either.
Spay the drum from the back at the seam where the drum meets the back plate like you are trying to float that thing (WD40), tap (with a BFH) all around the back edge of the drum spraying it all he way around. Get the fluid inside the seam! Let it sit a little while to give the spay a chance.
Get your mind right...." This thing is coming off "!!!!!!!
Git'R done!
Posted via Mobile Device

+1 if the drum rotates it's stuck either cause there is a lip the shoes are caught in, star wheel access fixes this....or

Its rusted to the axle and some heat and spray and banging and pryin is called for....(but only after the star wheel is backed off as a just in case measure...never know if the shoes are stuck in a rut in the drum till ya get the drum off)

[Sharps40]

I did a thread Ol John Lee gets brakes....I photographed every part number used - all came off the shelf from orellies....hang on I'll get ya a link.

[Sharps40]

Here it is....wheel cylinder part numbers for the 64 C10. Plus a bunca other stuff. Hopefully with some research you'll find some of these parts fit yers if it ain't a 64.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558945

[Sharps40]

Sundy, ya aint far from my mom and dad...they're in centerville. He drives a hopped up orange 47 Chevy truck.

[Sharps40]

Orellies also carries the wheel cylinder rebuild kits. If yer pistons are tosted just buy the whole cylinder since ya cant get pistons separate.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551452

[Sundy]

Thanks Sharps, this will help.

Centreville is about 4 miles away which translates to >45 minutes when traffic is on.

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by Sundy

Thanks Sharps, this will help.

Centreville is about 4 miles away which translates to >45 minutes when traffic is on.

I know all bout that traffic...its one reason I'm in the sandhill country of NC now. Trees, flowers, smiling faces and no damn traffic.

[Sharps40]

Cool. Figured the cylinder hone thread might show better how to pull em out and put em back whether you replace or rehone. As long as yer crackin the back might oughtta pick up hose and hard lines for the rear. If the lines are rusted, ye'll prolly twist em off trying to get em out of the cylinders anyhow.