who has DRUM brakes with a DUAL master cyl?

[NEWFISHER]

I plan on getting rid of the o.e. "coffin can" single master, but don't want to go full disc. I plan on using the frame mounted bracket from Brothers, classic, cpp etc like this one
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=DMC5954

Which master did you use? They started mandating dual reservoir dual system in 1967. I have narrowed my options to the 67 and up nova or the 67-76 corvette. The nova requires the removal of the restrictor for disc and is 3/4 bore giving a shorter pedal less effort feel than the 1" bore of the covette, which was equal pressure due to the front and rear disc. I have searched a bunch and still on the fence. I don't want to go hydroboost as I don't want/have p/steering. I don't want power boost, nor do I want to switch to disc. Looking for those who have done and are using, swapped in a dual master on a drum system and what path did you take?
Thanks
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[mr48chev]

I have a 68 C-10 master cylinder mounted on a self made bracket that bolts to the factory bracket that the original master cylinder did. The cost was digging up a couple of pieces of metal out of my small flat piece collection and using my buddie's big drill press to cut the hole for the end of the master cylinder to fit in along with pushrod and bellows and drilling the two holes to mount the master cylinder to the plate, we then cut the piece for the side and drilled two holes to mount it to the original bracket on the frame. Spend the 100 bucks if you want to but you can build the bracket for less than 5.00 and an hour's time pretty easily. The bracket also needs a gusset to keep it from flexing that that one doesn't have.

You want to set the master cylinder so the push rod has a straight shot from where it fastens to the pedal and you want to make the pushrod out of some heavy material and work a way in it to adjust it. My first pushrod bent an I had to build a stronger one.

[NEWFISHER]

Mr.48....I see your point, but I have found it shipped for $70. I could fab one up, find a brake rod, set everything up, modify the rod a few times, get up off the floor, get back down , get up off the floor , get back down ( it's like folding a basketball with me ) make another run to the parts store to get the bolts etc. $70 is a dinner at the Outback Steakhouse and alot more than $5 ish to fab it up, but I drive it every day, work on it on the weekends and I f I can spend less than $100 on something that will free up a few hours for more time with the family and dogs I lean towards a kit that in this case has all of the bolts, rod length etc. I fabbed the rear axle perches on the rear swap, built a few brackets for some other items, made the rear hitch etc. I guess I'm getting older and it's getting colder here so simplicity has become my friend.

On the master cyl it looks like I'm down to choosing a 67 and later nova, chevelle etc 3/4 bore and removing the restricter for the front disc brakes ( I am going to use drum/drum) or using the 67-76 corvette with 1" bore and not having to remove a restricter as the corvette was for a disc/disc application and will have equal pressure for my drum /drum set up.

Anyone run one NON boosted and how was the pedal feel with 3/4 or 1" ?
Thanks

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

it's like folding a basketball with me

now that was funny

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just curious, why NOT upgrade to front discs? No criticism implied - these trucks have "only" been on the road 50 or 60 years with drums and have survived just fine.

I've got a disc kit for my '55.2 I haven't/can't install because my 283 has too rumpety a cam and doesnt develop enough vacuum for s booster. plus its got camel hump heads so imstalling a PS pump will be costly for special brackets. But I always wonder how good/bad a MANUAL disc/drum combo would work?
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[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Just curious, why NOT upgrade to front discs? No criticism implied - these trucks have "only" been on the road 50 or 60 years with drums and have survived just fine.

I've got a disc kit for my '55.2 I haven't/can't install because my 283 has too rumpety a cam and doesnt develop enough vacuum for s booster. plus its got camel hump heads so imstalling a PS pump will be costly for special brackets. But I always wonder how good/bad a MANUAL disc/drum combo would work?
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Dan,
I have several reasons for keeping the drums and definately a good question for other to follow.

First issue: When I bought the " burb in a box" it was trailered 8 hours away and assesed on what the previous owner was doing, had done and what was available to install and to order. Some brake parts were new, others old, some installed. I completely went through the brake system and installed new shoes, drums, cylinders, seals, lines etc except the master. This was more to get it on the road than anything. After installing everything new, driving it 4,000 + miles and even towing our 20' Avion, it stops well, really well. If I adjust the brakes during each oil change it will literally toss you through the windshield if wanted.

Second: I have restored several rigs from 55 to 72 and have seen all kinds of brake systems and concearns. My last resurection was a 55 Chevy wagon drum/drum. I was using it as a daily driver and also towing a teardrop trailer on the weekends. The brake system was " fairly new" but just felt spongy. I needed to replace the master and wheel cylinders and after adding up the expense, I pulled the trigger on a 7" boosted dual master , disc front and new cylinder drum rear set up from CPP. It was a breeze to install and and worked better than great, with one exception....it now drove and felt like a new car. It literally changed in one weekend from an old classic with ball style bearings and weak drum / drum system to tapered rollers and disc drum with power. As much as I liked it, I didn't like it if that makes sense. With the Burb, I like the " Old classic truck feel" bouncy spring seat, leafs that you can feel move beneath you, noises that creak and moan at times and the ocasional wheel lock up and bias scream for a last minute red light. Yes I have upgraded the roller bearings and used Sid's new tie rod set up when I did the drop axle , but that was more about safety than loosing the feel ( the feel was the steering was shot and all over the road).

Third: I will have $140 plus making a dedicated rear line and only have a couple hours in mounting a prefab bracket, master and running a hard line. Super simple Saturday special and still get to hit the slope Snowboarding afterwards. Sounds like Sally is selling seashells again hahaa.

I hope that answered your question and I just want to make it clear that power disc systems are much safer, reliable and less work to maintain than a drum system. I'm just keeping it old school for now.

[dcmalone]

My original MC was pretty much useless, even after an attempted rebuild. I ended up going with a frame mount pedal assembly a dual MC. I think I may have bought it form American Classic but would have to do some receipt digging to be for sure. I looked at everything possible. I am not currently running the booster and made an adapter plate so that the MC and braket would mate. It came with a 1" bore MC and so far I very happy. I do have 3 RPV's I plan on installing once the weather is nice enough to do it. I'm like you in wanting to keep the "old truck" feel. I like the leaf spring suspension, non-power steering and the creaks and pops on every bump.

[Trekster]

I used a M/C for a '70's Mustang with drum/drum brakes. It has the residual check valves already installed. I modified the M/C bracket to mount it. I will see if I can find the part number.

One more thing! The truck is still apart so I have not been able to drive it so I do not know how it works. The Mustang M/C conversion was popular on stovebolt guite a few years ago so I decided to try it.

[Brad54]

While you're upgrading the master cylinder, upgrade the brake hardware to self-adjuster kits.
I did on my '61, and it's nice.

-Brad

[lmdangerous]

On the Hamb Board there is a guy up in NY , his avator is Ghostrider -he makes a damn fine bracket for 55$ ,bolts to the factory frame mounts , and already has the gussets. I used the dual masterC. from a vette - the big one , but it looks just like the one speedway sells. It hooks up to the stock petal, and only mod I made was a off -set sleeve, about 1/2 longer bolt and a hiem end in stead of the ugly factoy rod , and dont for get the saftey loop so it dont drop out.
You might look into him - he has a 1951 3800 JS code pick up like mine - I can tell you it works and fits well . At the time I tried to order mine over a year ago - everyone even brothers was on back order- its simple nice piece that he will drill to about what ever MC you want -
LMD

[NEWFISHER]

Thanks guys fo the pics and info! I forgot about ghostrider. I like the look of the mustang set up, but working at a Chevy Dealer and owning/driving them all of my life it would be bad kahrma installing a Ford part on the burb
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[NEWFISHER]

Found this over at stovebolt if anyone is thinking of building thier own

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Found this over at stovebolt if anyone is thinking of building thier own

Definately saving this picture in case I ever need one!!

[danheit]

Newfisher,
just to throw it out there, I am getting ready to do the same swap as you. I purchased a mc for a 67 Camaro that seems like it will fit the bill nicely, and it was only $14. May want to give that a once over.
-Dan

[mr48chev]

That drawing is real close to how I did mine Newfisher.

I think, that's the same master cylinder Dan. If I'm not mistaken the first year for a dual master cylinder on GM cars was 67. Using my O'Reilly's cheat sheet the compatibility page says it fits a lot of GM cars http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1292&ppt=C0066

[Coach529]

I will be running a disc drum combo, but bought a bracket from POL to mount my master cylinder.

I could have saved some cash buying it all seperate and building the bracket, but sometimes time is money!! Just easier at this time to buy the stuff.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Newfisher, Your explanation makes perfect sense to me. I'm most likely NOT going to IFS my truck because even though I like the general drive ability of a newer vehicle, that not what I bought my '55 for. I know done guys want to drive a C6 ZO6 Vette that has a Task Force body on it. More power to them and I truly admire them; but I don't want that for myself.

Danheit, That $14 MC sounds pretty appealing. Are you gonna use that for a drum/drum or a disc/drum setup? I need to figure out a cheaper way to put a dual MC in my truck, with the front discs - since I already have the kit - yet w/o a booster. I'm gonna check to see if the TF needs a very different bracket than you guy's AD's?
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[NEWFISHER]

[QUOTE=I need to figure out a cheaper way to put a dual MC in my truck, with the front discs - since I already have the kit - yet w/o a booster.[/QUOTE]

1967 Nova or Chevelle with disc/drum non power MC is what should work for you. It's 3/4 bore and you will leave the restricter valve in it ( disc front / drum rear)

[danheit]

Newfisher got to it before I could. Also, the 67 Chevy C10 I believe had a front disc option. I know the camaro had some option as far as boosted or non-boosted, so I would assume disc brakes were an option. I should say though, that mine was $14 with my discount. I think 19.99 without it, but still not bad! Btw, mine is going on a TF, not an AD.

Also, where did you find it for $70 shipped?? I would do that today!
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[NEWFISHER]

[QUOTE=danheit Also, where did you find it for $70 shipped?? I would do that today![/QUOTE]

Look up " Ghostrider " on stovebolt or Hamb, he builds and SHIPS them for $50

[Dan in Pasadena]

So '67 Nova, Chevelle or C10 with disc/drum option. Did these three vehicles come both with and without a booster? Cause I need an MC for use without. I saw the bracket alone on POL pretty cheap. So with any of these 3 MC's I need nothing else?
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[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

So '67 Nova, Chevelle or C10 with disc/drum option. Did these three vehicles come both with and without a booster? Cause I need an MC for use without. I saw the bracket alone on POL pretty cheap. So with any of these 3 MC's I need nothing else?
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Yes, you want a non-boosted one

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Yes, you want a non-boosted one

Ok, Rockauto has them at $20 but +$20 core charge. Or $45-50-ish without. But I notice none of their listings are clear about whether its for a booster or not. Hmmm...
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Now I'm wondering if there's a nifty drawing like the one above for a Task Force truck? GOnna search here and on Stovebolt. Anyone know anything about this?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just checked eBay. "67 Chevelle Master Cylinder" returns prices in the $50-$70 range. "C10 Master Cylinder" returns prices in the $35-$50ish range.
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[Coach529]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=617080