Fuel tank options

[Jdubs71]

Anybody running Dave Boyd's aluminum tank in their blazer? I'm planning on using the efi tank, but couldn't get a clear answer from Pro Performance on fitment in a blazer. I'm assuming since they fit in the 67-72 trucks it should work fine I just want to be sure. I'm open to other tanks just figured this one was a good one at a reasonable price. Any advice would be appreciated.
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[Jdubs71]

Would a moderator please move this post to the LSx swap sub-forum, it might get some responses there.
Thank you
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[Firebirdjones]

Nope, pickup truck tanks are different, won't fit. Not a huge fan of aluminum for a fuel tank anyway with todays ethanol fuels.

I ended up going with NWMP's 37 gallon tank made for EFI (in tank pump) Worked like a champ.

[Dale99]

I went with a 31gal tank from a 91 burb.

[JJH Jimmy]

I built my own. I made it out of 16 gauge stainless steel and the Tanks Inc. sending unit and fuel pump hanger with the Walbro 255 pump. I also put baffles in it with a fuel pump tray. Although it turned out nice, it was a ton of work.

[Jdubs71]

Will any of those tanks mount without having to modify my rear crossmember. The frame is already painted so I'd hate to cut up and weld on it.
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[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by Jdubs71

Will any of those tanks mount without having to modify my rear crossmember. The frame is already painted so I'd hate to cut up and weld on it.
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Yup, NWMP goes right in without mods, and you get 37 gallons.

If you use a burb tank, it will require cutting and fab work and you get ~31 gallons.

I'm like you, I didn't buy a rust free South West blazer to start cutting up the frame.

[Effeckt]

I went with a polyurethane tank that was molded to be a direct replacement for the factory tank. Worked well for me.

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by Effeckt

I went with a polyurethane tank that was molded to be a direct replacement for the factory tank. Worked well for me.

Yep, That's what I pulled out of mine. Worked fine but not made for an internal fuel injection pump, so it had to go Which is what the original poster is looking for.

As a matter of fact, I'm tired of it sitting on my floor. Anyone wants it come and get it. Within the next week it's going in the dumpster.

[Firebirdjones]

Here you go Dubs, this is what you get from NWMP.

You get all new hoses, including a correctly sized filler hose (that seems to be elusive at the parts stores).
Brand new 0-90 ohms sender, in tank fuel pump setup (the tank has baffling as well as a sump built in to keep the pump surrounded with fuel at all times). All the wiring, terminals, gaskets, nuts and bolts you need for the install. As well as high pressure fuel line hoses in both 5/16 and 3/8 (stuff is about $15 a foot) and you get more than you need along with all the clamps. Everything you need to complete the install. Didn't have to make a single run to the parts store, sweet deal. To top it off, it has all the factory evap connections necessary to keep your charcoal canister working properly, all in the right locations, no mods necessary.



Here is a test fit in the blazer, slides in fine. Then decided to toss it in the booth and shoot it a dark metallic grey I had left over from another job.



Here it is installed sitting outside. A side shot that shows how it tucks up under the truck.

[Jdubs71]

Thanks for the info and the photos that is tempting. A little bigger than I was planning on using considering it will be my sunday stroller. It is a very nice looking tank.
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Oh and nice blazer by the way. Love the color scheme.

[Firebirdjones]

The capacity is awsome, just what I wanted. At 22 mpg highway I have about a 800 mile range if I run it dry

Mainly city driving though for me (about 16-17 mpg) so I go about 2 weeks without having to fillup. Less stops at the gas station is what I was after.

My pickup has factory dual 20 gallon tanks so I'm used to the hit. The suburban I'm currently looking at is a 38 gallon tank

[Dale99]

My 31 gallon, I did remove the rear brace and installed my own made from box tubing.

[JJH Jimmy]

Here you go jdubs. I don't have any drawings but i have pictures. The tank i built is 17" wide x 26" long and 12 1/2" tall. I formed up the tank in four pieces (2 halves and 2 ends). I stitched welded in 2 baffles (10" tall with the bottom corners cut for fuel transfer) equally spaced and built a 4" tall x 3 1/2" wide x 7" long fuel sump tray with a 1/2" "mouse hole" in it. The mounting flanges that the pump hanger and the fuel sender mount onto is 1/4" stainless steel plate that i had laser cut out. I then drilled the mounting plates with the correct hole orientation of the sender and pump relay and counter sunk the back side. I tack welded counter sunk s.s. 10-24 screws to the plates and then welded them to the tank in the correct locations seal welding as well on the inside. I used brass nuts to hold the sender and the pump hanger down so they would not gall up. I used 1 1/2" s.s. sanitary tube and fittings for the fuel filler neck and i located it in the same position as the stock one so all of the original hoses would work. I also used 1/2" s.s. tube for the fuel filler vent. I also pressure checked it with air at about 10psi for 30 minutes to make sure there was no leaks. The top oil canned a bit when i welded the sender and pump hanger mounts down but you will never see it when i get the body back on. I also welded 3" x 1/4" s.s. angle to the ends to mount the tank to the frame. Here is the parts list from Tanks Inc.


1- SSP-1 In-Tank Fuel Pump Hanger Kit - For Fuel Injected Engines) @ $50.00 = $50.00

1- WPA Walbro Fuel Pump Plug Wiring Adaptor for the GSS-242 & GSS-340 Pumps) @ $6.00 = $6.00

1- GSS-340 Genuine Walbro GPA Series In-Tank Fuel Pump - 255 Liters per Hour) @ $109.00 = $109.00

1- TAN-GML Fuel Tank Sending Unit GM 1965 & UP Type 5 Hole Design - 0-90 Ohms) @ $35.00 = $35.00

Like i said it was a lot of work, but i rather do it myself if i can than pay some one to do it for me. Josh.

[Jdubs71]

Nice work! That would be a good project to take on for sure.
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[Firebirdjones]

I noticed you welded side tabs with holes drilled.

You may already be aware of this, but it's worth mentioning in case others aren't aware. If you plan on mounting the tank directly to the frame that way, it's generally not a good idea as the frame tends to move around quite a bit, eventually would cause fatigue and cracking in that aluminum tank. That's why they are always mounted with straps, to allow some movement.

Just something to keep in mind. Still nice fab work by the way

[JJH Jimmy]

[QUOTE=Firebirdjones;5861797]I noticed you welded side tabs with holes drilled.

You may already be aware of this, but it's worth mentioning in case others aren't aware. If you plan on mounting the tank directly to the frame that way, it's generally not a good idea as the frame tends to move around quite a bit, eventually would cause fatigue and cracking in that aluminum tank. That's why they are always mounted with straps, to allow some movement.

Just something to keep in mind. Still nice fab work by the way

I have not heard of this before. I know this is how Dave Boyd mounts his aluminum tank's and have not heard of any problems. My tank is also stainless steel not aluminum. Aluminum is way more brittle and will crack easier than stainless.

[Tom Vogel]

Mine was made by Rick's Hotrod Shop. Its a 20gal stainless, and will bolt right in without mods. Mine is for a carburated blow through setup, but Im sure the make them with the whole in tank pump/Lsx setup. They are weel known in the business.