Success rate of hinge repair with just pins and bushings?

[JellyBeanDriver]

86' C30 crewcab dually.

Owner complained about air whipping around inside the cab when driving with the windows up - with the doors sagging so much it's no wonder. Driver's door is sagging and has been long enough the door post is worn down. Bushings appear to have broken up into pieces.


Got the Dorman pin and bushing kit. Looks like the door has to be unbolted as the pin won't clear the door.

Hoping I can just unbolt the door, replace the bushings and pins, then bolt the door back on and have good enough/ great alignment.

Am I dreaming? Do these pin and bushing replacements ever completely solve the sagging door problem by themselves?

[Tx Firefighter]

I haven't ever seen a door that couldn't be realigned back to like new with a hinge rebuild job and a new striker bolt and bushing.
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[xrcr]

x2 unless they are wallerd (sp?) out....

[bigd65]

Originally Posted by xrcr

x2 unless they are wallerd (sp?) out....

that sounds like some TEXAS" WERDS "there, WALLERED

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by bigd65

that sounds like some TEXAS" WERDS "there, WALLERED

Sounds right to me. That or hogged out...

[kalbert]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Sounds right to me. That or hogged out...

I believe hogged out is what you do when you crudely make a hole bigger, wallered out is what happens when a hole is worn out and too big.

For example "These new wheels don't fit, I had to hog the center out to fit over the 4x4 hubs" vs "Some of the lug nuts came loose on the highway and the holes in the wheels got wallered out and don't fit right now"

[rs74]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Sounds right to me. That or hogged out...

Hogged out? That's a new one on me. I will have to remember that one. Never heard it like that. Now wallerd I can relate to. Although I think it should be wallowed everyone says wallerd around here. Sorry for getting side track. Just found it a bit amusing.

[xrcr]

Originally Posted by bigd65

that sounds like some TEXAS" WERDS "there, WALLERED

I suspect Foristell isn't much differnt than Texas. Just on the other side of the Mason Dixon line....

[bojak]

Just did driver side on mine this last weekend. What a PITA. Now that i've done it once it is not going to be a big deal. My factory ones were rivited at bottom of the pins so i had to grind that off b4 they could be knocked up and out. Top hinge had to be unbolted as pin would not clear dooor skin. My buddy kind of pulled one on me because he said no matter what don't unbolt the hinge, you'll never get it back right again. He's a dick. Mark where there at with a sharpie, unbolt them, replace them, rebolt them, have a beer. i could of saved 2 hours doing it that way.

[willett]

Did mine a couple months ago, new bushings and striker and she's right as rain.
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[willett]

My bushings were also non existent. You have to drill the hole out for the new bushings anyways. I drilled my holes 2 thou under size and it worked perfect
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[riz]

I replaced mine on my K5 Blazer project........ much better now and not much money.

RIZ

[meatwagon83]

i think i need to do this to all four of my doors

[silvereagle07]

I did mine a few years ago with new pins/bushings and a new set of strikers. They close real nice now.

[hatzie]

You can install repair pin kits even on pretty wallerd out hinges.
I recently fixed a couple door hinges on my stepbrothers' 97 W1500 Dodge. The holes where the pins slipped through were pretty wallered out and the driver door latch area and striker was damaged beyond easy repair. The repair pins and bushings I purchased were oversize for that reason. I just drilled and installed the new pin/bushing kits and hung the new driver door.
Both doors had to be re-aligned. They close smooth and square after aligning and installing a new striker.

[kwin]

Pins and bushings will not help mine,clean rust free doors, way out of alignment on the drivers side, the skin has separated from the frame and as a result the door is racked!

@#!%

[JellyBeanDriver]

Thanks everyone.

Going to give this a try in a couple of weekends. Hoping there is enough slack in the power window wiring to unbolt the door and move it out of the way to get to the hinges. Will definitely sharpie mark the hinges before I undo the door.

Keeping my fingers crossed the holes are not ovaled, though the kit came with thicker bushings too. Heck of a deal - like $3 from RockAuto. 2 pins, 8 bushings.

[Greenlee]

A trick I read on this forum to get the old pins out is to cut them in the middle with a grinder. They come out easily after they are cut.

When I replaced mine, the new pins i got from Classic Parts went in without drilling. However, I still have a slight bit of play in the door. It's much better than before, but i think I would have been better off with the over sized pins.
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[JellyBeanDriver]

Originally Posted by Greenlee

A trick I read on this forum to get the old pins out is to cut them in the middle with a grinder. They come out easily after they are cut.

When I replaced mine, the new pins i got from Classic Parts went in without drilling. However, I still have a slight bit of play in the door. It's much better than before, but i think I would have been better off with the over sized pins.
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Not sure that would work with mine, the door panel is in the way as it curves in and over the path the pin would take.

This kit came with thicker bushings. Given how the OEM bushings all fractured and split apart - I am tempted to drill for the oversize bushings.

Or maybe I'm thinking about it wrong - bushings are softer than steel so I suppose thin ones would be best if the hole is not ovaled.

[Greenlee]

Originally Posted by JellyBeanDriver

Not sure that would work with mine, the door panel is in the way as it curves in and over the path the pin would take.

This kit came with thicker bushings. Given how the OEM bushings all fractured and split apart - I am tempted to drill for the oversize bushings.

Or maybe I'm thinking about it wrong - bushings are softer than steel so I suppose thin ones would be best if the hole is not ovaled.

I took the door off the truck first before I cut the pins. Maybe it could be done with the door still on, but there won't be much room to work.
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[tucsonjwt]

I found that using OEM GM pins and bushings was the only way for me. The Dorman pins are too large in diameter and require reaming out the hinges.
Here is my experience with replacing the pins and bushings. I did not have a engine hoist to hold the door up so I just built a platform out of 2x4s - worked well for me.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ubba+door+pins

[JellyBeanDriver]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

I found that using OEM GM pins and bushings was the only way for me. The Dorman pins are too large in diameter and require reaming out the hinges.
Here is my experience with replacing the pins and bushings. I did not have a engine hoist to hold the door up so I just built a platform out of 2x4s - worked well for me.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ubba+door+pins

I remember reading your thread. The splined end of the pins I have are not much greater than the diameter of the rest of the pin. Going to give these ones a try and if needed I can turn down the splined part a hair.

The 2x4 platform looks like a good idea. I saw another post where a guy did the same thing but made a saddle to fit his floor jack, and arms on the side to keep the door from falling over.

[JellyBeanDriver]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

I found that using OEM GM pins and bushings was the only way for me. The Dorman pins are too large in diameter and require reaming out the hinges.
Here is my experience with replacing the pins and bushings. I did not have a engine hoist to hold the door up so I just built a platform out of 2x4s - worked well for me.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ubba+door+pins

Did the driver's door hinge pins+bushings today. Used my transmission jack to hold the door while I fished out the door's wiring (power windows and locks) and then unbolted the door and set it aside.

Upper hinge was badly worn - hole was elongated. 'normal' bushings would not have lasted long as there was no steel to back it up. Used a 31/64's drill (thanks to a thread here) and installed the oversize Dorman bushings.

Lower hinge was not as badly worn - used the 'normal' bushings.

For good measure, I reamed the upper hole a hair before trying to set the dorman pins in place. Basically just reamed it until the serrations from the factory pin were removed. Did not have any problems setting the Dorman pins in place after doing this. Greased the pins and bushings with wheel bearing grease before installation of the pins.

Hinges are nice and TIGHT now! (not stiff - just no slop).

Unfortunately the door needs to be aligned - the upper hinge needs to move towards the front of the truck a little bit to correct ~ 1/8" sag at the latch. For now I just adjusted the new striker so it is in-line with the door latch.

Closes nice and solidly now - no need to slam it.

Now I need to buy/make a special tool to get to the door hinge bolts on the frame side so I can align the door.

[99monte]

This I was hoping was door hinge pins & bushings,turned out to be a cracked door.Got it welded up,fit with new pins & bushings,elogated the holes in the hinge(cab side) ,and now it fits

[JellyBeanDriver]

Originally Posted by 99monte

This I was hoping was door hinge pins & bushings,turned out to be a cracked door.Got it welded up,fit with new pins & bushings,elogated the holes in the hinge(cab side) ,and now it fits

Bummer about the cracks.

I'm surprised how tin-can'ish this truck is. Lots of hollow body parts, frame set inside pretty far from the side, thin sections of sheetmetal where bigger pieces are bolted to like the door hinges and striker bolt.