removing front drums on a 4x4

[zetan]

1960 Chevy K10 4x4 - doing the brakes. Has drums brakes all around.
I got rear drums off, cleaned, painted, and about to put new parts on.

The front drums are not wanting to come off. There's no access to an adjuster screw.

I've been looking at drum pullers, but they force into the middle and it would damage the hub selector (aluminum). What is the proper tool and method for removing the front brake drums? Do I have to remove the hub first?



Thanks

[maxwoof]

I just did my 62 k20. Access holes were on the backing plates at the bottom. You don't have any there? If the drums won't come off because of the shoes I don't know how you can get them off without backing off the shoes. If the drum is frozen to the hub, tapping/heat/penetrating oil on the face of the drum, around the wheel studs.
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[bhc41051]

There are two adjuster's on the backing plates at 3 and 9 o'clock.. I'll try and get a photo for you... If your truck is a V8 could you post a photo of the engine mount on the crossmember?

[zetan]

Originally Posted by bhc41051

There are two adjuster's on the backing plates at 3 and 9 o'clock.. I'll try and get a photo for you... If your truck is a V8 could you post a photo of the engine mount on the crossmember?

Ah thanks are those the two 9/16 tall nuts? I did break them loose but turning didn't seem to help. I'll try more.

My truck has a 283 but originally came with the v6. So the tubular engine mount in front has the bracket on the FRONT side. I need to cut it off and weld it to the back side of the tube to use the U-shaped engine mount vs the bubba mounts in currently.

[zetan]

Did penetrating oil (PBlaster)

While the rear drums have the little plastic oval to remove from the adjuster location, the fronts only have two rivets in the same place.

Did tapping with hammer & screwdriver around the drum lip.
Moved up to 5lbs slide hammer. No movement at all.

Assuming the drum is rusted to the axle flange.

[bhc41051]

My rear brakes are standard Chevy... My fronts are a little odd... You'll see when you get the drum off. I knew I was going to have to buy new drums so I wasn't afraid to beat on them.. My truck wouldn't even make a decent parts truck when I started...

[bhc41051]

Hmmm that's an interesting setup for the moter mount...the mount on the crossmember is correct but you need a "horseshoe" type mount for the engine.. That bar setup looks like it's off of an earlier model truck...

[bhc41051]

No my mistake.. your mount is in the front of the crossmember.. your truck was originally a six cylinder...

[bhc41051]

I have the same problem.. but my mount on the crossmember was all hacked up.. I have to fab one and weld it to the rear... Your mount looks to be in good shape..

[j.kirn]

do you have the horse shoe mount?

[zetan]

Yes I have the horseshoe mount. I want to go with the original v8 configuration, so I have and move the motor mount bracket off the tube.

The frame is distinctly different from other 62-63-66 2wd trucks I have looked at. For example our frame horns are cut, but the angles and holes of the frame rail leading up to the tip is shaped differently than a 62 set of frame horns which we cut at a junkyard. Was 60 a crossover year? Maybe there is more in common with this frame to a 59 napco?

[zetan]

How do I get this off the splines?
I can pull it forward about 1/8" then it gets stuck.
It appears to be part of a flange behind it that rides on behind the out splines.

[RANDY COX]

I had drums on the front of my 70 Burb 4x4 also,but they came right off.will the drum spin freely,if so I wouldn't think that it would be stuck to the shoes,so it's prolly just froze to the center hub,I would soak it with a good penetrating oil,scrape around the flange with a sharp tool to help rid of crude,spray around the studs and the extra holes in between the studs,pry on backside and tap around the center of flange while prying.But it the shoes are stuck to it then yea your gonna have to get them backed off,they can be a pain..doesn't have to be an old vehicle either...good luck with it...

[66Submarine]

I have had to remove a lot with a hammer. Prying just tears stuff up, tapping does nothing most of the time, IME. What I'll do is take a hammer (6lb sledge works well) and beat on the drum, right on the top outside edge, (where the wheel mounts) pointing down to the hub/spindle, so all the impact is going to the center of the drum where it's frozen to the hub. Kind of barbaric, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything. Not sure about 4wd stuff, though. Neat truck, BTW.

[61K10]

on 1/2 ton 4x4 the front backing plates have 2 adjusters as bhc has said. so on the backing plate--back side of the drum there are 2 hex head locking nuts with an adjuster in the middle. when turned they push the b-shoes out to contact the drums. this might not be your problem through.

[zetan]

I think I have to get that hub part off the axle shaft spline to access the axle shaft nut. Then the drum can come out.

I have the two hex brake adjusters loose..
I did PBlaster the hub mounting surface holes..
I did whack the drum with a rubber mallet and lightly with a 5lbs hammer to break things free..

I have a brake drum puller but the drum is held up by the nut AFAIK.

I thought it was a dana 44, but different than the 76 axle I took apart a while ago.

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by zetan

I did whack the drum with a rubber mallet and lightly with a 5lbs hammer to break things free..

IME lightly doesn't cut it. You have to get pretty violent, sometimes to a WTF level.

[padresag]

take an oxy/acet torch and heat the drum up between the studs and the hub. could just be frozen on there like the old chey p/car rear hubs. they were a bugger to take off and one usually had to use heat
ron

[61K10]

hows it going up your way padresag---there was a gasket for the p-cars that fit between the drum and axle. don't know about the trucks. shortened my steering arm for my ps--works perfect now.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 61K10

hows it going up your way padresag---there was a gasket for the p-cars that fit between the drum and axle. don't know about the trucks. shortened my steering arm for my ps--works perfect now.

glad that you got your steering sorted out.. guess that I ma have been referring to the tri5 rear drums and perhaps a few later years. I can remember them a pain to come off. you could heat them up until you heard a crack and off they came
ron

[66Submarine]

Also, I don't think anything's holding the drum on besides rust. It looks like it goes on over the hub just like normal.