Original heater on SBC - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dodger · 05-13-2013, 11:39 AM

Chipping away at the little jobs as well as the bigger ones and I was sorting through the heater.

I've wired it and the heater has power and runs through all settings no probs although I haven't run for long enough yet to see if its working right in terms of warm air.

It's a 50 and has the original heater but the truck has a SBC.

As you can see in the pic, the two top heater hose inlet/outlets have been blocked off at the firewall.

It does look like the two lower hoses are hooked up OK.

Do you think this heater will work like this or do I need to re connect the top hoses.

From the diagram it seems as those hoses that are blocked off have something to do with temp control.

Any advice would be great.

Posted via Mobile Device

mr48chev · 05-13-2013, 11:19 PM

Had to think on that one for a minute. The top two are for the heater control valve.

Here is what one looks like. http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/50_chevy_pu.html I don't think I have ever had one that worked on any of my truck cabs that I have had.

The heater hose would run from the outlet on the intake manifold on the V8 to the valve and from the valve to the heater. My guess is that it leaks and was bypassed.

When I put mine back together I was just going to put a cable operated valve in the line. One like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/310234390594...84.m1423.l2649 That link even gives the original Ford part number so one would be fairly easy to track down through your own sources. Use the choke or throttle cable in the original position on the dash and you can open or close the valve.

Dodger · 05-14-2013, 12:46 AM

OK, thanks 48,

As you can see in my engine bay, the two lower hoses are connected and running from the engine to the heater.

The temp control valve has been bypassed from the "circuit" if that makes sense.

Do you think the heater will still pump warm air but because of this bypass, I won't be able to adjust temperature or will the system simply not work as I have it connected now?
Posted via Mobile Device

PurdueSD · 05-14-2013, 07:30 AM

You are going to have 180 degree coolant circulating through your heater core antime the engine is running. The heater fan is a separate switch. It will be like having a small radiant heater on at all times.
Posted via Mobile Device

mr48chev · 05-14-2013, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PurdueSD

You are going to have 180 degree coolant circulating through your heater core antime the engine is running. The heater fan is a separate switch. It will be like having a small radiant heater on at all times.
Posted via Mobile Device

Exactly, I finally put a ball valve in the hose under the hood to shut the water off. I didn't have the internet to be able to hunt for the valve I showed in the other post then.

OrrieG · 05-14-2013, 01:54 PM

Go to your friendly parts counter guy and he should be able to come up with an in line valve that can be manually operated or hooked up to a cable. I ran one on the truck for years so I was not captive to the stock 59 heater core. Flipped in on in the fall, off in the summer. Without it you will get heat in the cab all summer. Cable is nice because you can moderate the temp in fall and spring.

mr48chev · 05-14-2013, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Go to your friendly parts counter guy and he should be able to come up with an in line valve that can be manually operated or hooked up to a cable. I ran one on the truck for years so I was not captive to the stock 59 heater core. Flipped in on in the fall, off in the summer. Without it you will get heat in the cab all summer. Cable is nice because you can moderate the temp in fall and spring.

The Ebay link I posted earlier in the thread had a Ford part number that should be good world wide to cross at most parts houses C3UZ18495A I see from the O'Reilly's site that they are available both metal and plastic.

Checking the LMC site they don't show an original style valve but show one similar to the Ford valve for twice the price and a simple valve that you screw the handle down or up on to open or close the valve. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=80 Items 16 and 17. I just use the LMC site because they have nice drawings and it's simple to navigate to be able to show something.

Dodger · 05-14-2013, 08:11 AM

Right, that would be no good in my neck of the woods during summer.

So the top fitting stops/starts water flow through the heater when you turn on/off.
Posted via Mobile Device

Atomsplitter · 05-15-2013, 10:37 PM

The OEM heater cores were never intended to be used with a modern high pressure cooling system. I'm on my second one but you can get new ones (Taiwan, Korea?) them off eBay for about $200.

Here's the cable operated ball valve I used between the firewall and the heater core. Just ran the push-pull cable to a bracket under the dash, works great.

05-13-2013, 11:39 AM	#1
Dodger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 141	Original heater on SBC Chipping away at the little jobs as well as the bigger ones and I was sorting through the heater. I've wired it and the heater has power and runs through all settings no probs although I haven't run for long enough yet to see if its working right in terms of warm air. It's a 50 and has the original heater but the truck has a SBC. As you can see in the pic, the two top heater hose inlet/outlets have been blocked off at the firewall. It does look like the two lower hoses are hooked up OK. Do you think this heater will work like this or do I need to re connect the top hoses. From the diagram it seems as those hoses that are blocked off have something to do with temp control. Any advice would be great. Posted via Mobile Device

05-13-2013, 11:19 PM	#2
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,497	Re: Original heater on SBC Had to think on that one for a minute. The top two are for the heater control valve. Here is what one looks like. http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/50_chevy_pu.html I don't think I have ever had one that worked on any of my truck cabs that I have had. The heater hose would run from the outlet on the intake manifold on the V8 to the valve and from the valve to the heater. My guess is that it leaks and was bypassed. When I put mine back together I was just going to put a cable operated valve in the line. One like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/310234390594...84.m1423.l2649 That link even gives the original Ford part number so one would be fairly easy to track down through your own sources. Use the choke or throttle cable in the original position on the dash and you can open or close the valve. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around. Last edited by mr48chev; 05-13-2013 at 11:24 PM.

05-14-2013, 12:46 AM	#3
Dodger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 141	Re: Original heater on SBC OK, thanks 48, As you can see in my engine bay, the two lower hoses are connected and running from the engine to the heater. The temp control valve has been bypassed from the "circuit" if that makes sense. Do you think the heater will still pump warm air but because of this bypass, I won't be able to adjust temperature or will the system simply not work as I have it connected now? Posted via Mobile Device

05-14-2013, 07:30 AM	#4
PurdueSD Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: the middle Posts: 296	Re: Original heater on SBC You are going to have 180 degree coolant circulating through your heater core antime the engine is running. The heater fan is a separate switch. It will be like having a small radiant heater on at all times. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ My Lost and Forgotten build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442712

05-14-2013, 01:54 PM	#6
OrrieG Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Idaho Posts: 8,800	Re: Original heater on SBC Go to your friendly parts counter guy and he should be able to come up with an in line valve that can be manually operated or hooked up to a cable. I ran one on the truck for years so I was not captive to the stock 59 heater core. Flipped in on in the fall, off in the summer. Without it you will get heat in the cab all summer. Cable is nice because you can moderate the temp in fall and spring. __________________ 1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread 1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver) Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project

05-14-2013, 08:11 AM	#8
Dodger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 141	Re: Original heater on SBC Right, that would be no good in my neck of the woods during summer. So the top fitting stops/starts water flow through the heater when you turn on/off. Posted via Mobile Device

05-15-2013, 10:37 PM	#9
Atomsplitter Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ontario Posts: 514	Re: Original heater on SBC The OEM heater cores were never intended to be used with a modern high pressure cooling system. I'm on my second one but you can get new ones (Taiwan, Korea?) them off eBay for about $200. Here's the cable operated ball valve I used between the firewall and the heater core. Just ran the push-pull cable to a bracket under the dash, works great.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.