Are Disks worth the cost?

[Mr Handy]

So I decided to do a hard look at the numbers today and broke out the catalogues.
I was planning to do a disk break conversion on my 70. Over the weekend I went ahead and replaced the wheel cylinders on the front because the passenger was leaking... $20. Now the truck stops like a champ with the drums. so it got me to thinking, do I really need to spend the cash on disks.

My plan was to do drop spindles and 4" drop out back...
I crunched some numbers and to do the drop and disks would be about $1300 plus shipping.
If I stick with the drums and just do a 2/4 drop and replace all for springs, shocks, relocate rear shocks, replace front bearings, replace front brake hoses, replace shoes and brake springs all around, it would be $610 plus shipping...
So the question is, are disks worth $700?

I guess I should mention that all the ball joints and the rear brake cylinders were replaced a few years ago, and all the drums are in good shape. I plan to keep my steelies so I may have to do a little work to them if I do the disks, or add the cost of spacers to the cost, not really a deal breaker.

What do y'all think?

[BlackedOut67shorty]

If everything is already replaced then hold off until the brakes need servicing again. Put in considoration that you could always get used parts and can cut the conversion cost in half
Posted via Mobile Device

[Stocker]

Depends on how, where, and how much you drive it. If it's on the road a lot and you're mixing it up with heavy traffic on a regular basis, I'd convert to discs. But for tamer conditions, with the brakes being as good as you say they are now, I'd leave 'em alone for the time being.

[brad_man_72]

I made money on my 5 lug disc BRAKE swap.
Really not worth the trouble unless you're towing or driving hard enough to get brake fade.
Posted via Mobile Device

[JointTech]

if I had rememeber how much doing drum brakes sucked I would have gone ahead and done the conversion this month. Im going to wait a few months and get some important stuff done first but its back on my list. Takes 10 minutes to change pads. Drums you need 3 hands, safety goggles to keep the springs out of your eyes, and a lot of patience.

[Tinkermc]

I went disc and never looked back, if u do it don't forget the prop valve.

[Shyguy]

I used a donor '71 to convert over to disc brakes. Of course we were doing a build and it was pretty easy to change the front cradle with everything attached. Then we used the rear-end off the '71.

When we did the conversion all that was on the frame was the cab.

Now when I need to do any work to the brakes everything should be available at local parts stores.

[Frkypunk70]

I did a cpp 6 lugs disk brake swap and that came with 2.5 drop spindles and springs .....I do not remember it being 1300 bucks....I think you should do more research. Hope that helps
Posted via Mobile Device

[Mr Handy]

Originally Posted by Frkypunk70

I did a cpp 6 lugs disk brake swap and that came with 2.5 drop spindles and springs .....I do not remember it being 1300 bucks....I think you should do more research. Hope that helps
Posted via Mobile Device

disk break kit with MC Booster & prop valve, 2.5" drop spindles $825
4" rear drop springs $95
Rear Shocks $98
Rear shock relocating brackets. $59
front springs $99
front shocks$98
new shoes for rear. $31
total $1305

If I keep the drums
2/4 springs and shocks $359
relocate brackets $59
front/rear shoes $62
break hoses front $30
new front bearings $60
break springs $50
total $620
I think I had something else figured in that got me to 700 but didn't right it down

I tried to keep it apples to apples.

[lolife99]

Just my opinion.
If my front drum brakes worked fine I would run them.
BUT,... I would never spend a dime rebuilding them.
Save your money for disc brakes.
GM went to disc brakes on these old truck 42 years ago with 1971 model truck.

Bring your truck into the 21st century with better brakes.

[Vova]

You can get a front / rear disks, booster, and spindles for a little over $1K.

[67 chevelle]

if your master is fine , and you have a power booster , i believe you can just change the combo valve , you should be able to drop it and add disc in front for less than 1300 , that seems high to me

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 67 chevelle

if your master is fine , and you have a power booster , i believe you can just change the combo valve , you should be able to drop it and add disc in front for less than 1300 , that seems high to me

You will need a disc/drum specific master cylinder.
Distribution block that comes with drum brakes needs to be swapped out for a proportioning valve.

[BigRed76]

The fluid reservoir on a drum brake MC will run out of fluid with disc brakes once the pads wear, that's why disc brake MCs have larger reservoirs.

IMO if it's not a DD then drums should do you just fine.

[CC69Rat]

Does a bear sh** in the woods?

Yes, do it .. Bem muito mais!

[Rufton]

I converted one car to front disc and I really enjoy it. Low maintenance is high on my list and I find disc easier to maintain and stopping is more predictable. YMMV.

[Mr Handy]

Thanks for all the impute. I think I am back to my original plan to do the disks, now I just have to save up some scratch. I have had a couple members send me pm's with help as well.
I guess I'm not just looking to do disks, when I do the brakes I want to do the drop as well, do it all at once and be done. it's not like I don't have enough other stuff to do on the truck. now that the drums are running good, I need to focus on getting rid of the rust and getting it painted, which means I need to get the parts together and do my engine work, I figure I will pull the engine, do the work I want on it, paint the engine bay, work on the front clip in pieces, paint, put the engine back in, reassemble... then do the brakes and drop... then drive the hell out or her. luckily I think the work side is starting to turn around for me and I hope to busier then a one legged man in a butt kicking contest for a few months... I may not have a lot of time to work on the truck, but I at least hope to get most of the rust gone and get it ready to paint and work on the engine...
when I am done I want to be able to DD her if I want or need to if one of our other cars breaks down. I may go the shop truck route with my shop logo and such, might as well take advantage of an awesome truck and all the attention it will be getting

[70cst]

I switched to disc brakes and I am glad I did.

[70blackfish]

disc is the only way...

[BlackedOut67shorty]

I remember when my 67 was all drum, I wantedd to convert it but didn't think I could ever afford the price tag... But one day I went to the junkyard and there it was. A 71 to 72 c10 with everything I needed, took the spindles, rotors, steering box, master cylinder with prop valve, and drag link for all about 60 bucks. Take a stroll through cause you'll never know what you would find and you can use square body brakes too, bit I believe you might need the steering box from it. If you wanna keep it 6 lug you can just change the spindles to my knowledge
Posted via Mobile Device

[volksworld]

when I converted mine I swapped in a 75 suburban crossmember...because in 1980 there were no aftermarket disc conversions available yet ! the master cyl bores are the same from disc to drum ,its only reservoir capacity that increased...and not by a tremendous amount....due to ignorance I never changed the prop valve either....this was my daily driver and shop tow truck and drove it like that for 15 yrs without any brake issues...I only put a disc master and valve in 3 yrs ago during the resto and its still manual cause I hate having a booster in my way in the engine compartment

[bugmasta]

Used a donor 72 to convert my 68. One of the best mods I did.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Longhorn 70]

Here is one thing that I haven't seen mentioned here. I converted my 70 to disc for several reasons....ONE was in AZ we have storms that frequently flood streets. As my truck was a DD I had to drive through those streets. Even though the drums worked well when they were wet, not so well. Just a thought.

[Daves70]

It is the best improvement that I did on my 67.I used spindles from a 82, used 82 ball jounts,used an conversion tie rod collar and 6 bolt conversion disks. I think it was about $800 to do the whole thing with a new booster and master with prop valve.I found that with drums you get one good stop until they fade. With disks you get many.All it takes is one idiot cutting you off and causing an accident and the conversion is more than paid for. IMO

[Square_78]

The only reason I am switching to discs is because I need drop spindles. Otherwise I would keep my drums.

Couple things. On a 4" drop you don't need drop shocks or shock relocators. That's optional. Your factory length shocks will be fine as long as they still work. If you already have a power brake booster then all you need is a master cyl and you can get one from any junk yard off an 80's Chevy truck for $20. Cpp makes good kits at good prices. The cpp kit with spindles and brakes is $650 I believe. Rear 4" springs and I would just cut 1/2 to one coil off your stock front springs to give it a bit of rake. Don't waste your money getting too fancy for a 4" drop. That's not very much on these trucks. If you are going 4" rear then you will be going about 3" front and that's only 1/2" drop springs after you out your 2.5" spindles in.
Posted via Mobile Device