64 C10 longbed two or one piece axle with 383 stroker engine

[Hotrod1979]

HI

I have a 64 c10 longbed with a strong 383 stroker engine and th700r4 tranny.
My original drive shaft set up is a two piece drive shaft with upper mount bearing. Now that I put in the th700 transmission my front drive shaft is to long.

I have read a lot about one versus two piece drive shafts but I am still not sure what the best option will be.
My upper mount center bearing is the weaker one and I have the thinner front drive shaft. My truck is lowered 4" in the back. Will a one piece axle work without interfering with the crossmember or should I stay with my two oiece acle and just shorten the front piece.
I am a little worried about it because I have not got the heavy duty lower mounted support bearing and thicker front shaft.

Any advice from you guys? Thanks a lot

I live in the Netherlands so getting parts such as a bracket for a lower mount center bearing is very difficult....

[66 C10 383]

Though I don't have an answer for you, I'm in kinda the same situation. I'm currently building a 66 C10 LWB and will be running a stout 383 with a T56 6 speed tranny.

In my research I've been told that the 2 piece driveshaft is actually stronger than a long single driveshaft due to the length. I guess it's the torsional twisting of the longer one that is the concern.

As far as the bearing support, I'm interested to see some replies too.

[Hotrod1979]

Does anybody know what the maximum outside diameter can be for a one piece driveshaft on a longbed 64 c10 and still have enough clearance with the crossmember? And what is the maximum amount you can lower a truck with a one piece axle?

[creep]

I don't have any problems with my 2 piece driveshaft and 383 stroker (405hp). My carrier bearing mounts on the bottom though.

[Hotrod1979]

Problem is that my slip yoke has far too much play. And finding a replacement drive shaft here in the Netherlands is very difficult. That is why I was thinking about replacing the whole shaft for a one piece.

The overall length of my drive shaft would be 66". A 3.5" od driveshaft can have a maximum length of 65".

The question is what the maximum outside diameter is a 64 longbed can have to still clear the crossmember..

[TJ's Chevy]

Have you looked online for some places to build you a custom drive shaft?

[Hotrod1979]

No I went to my local shop. Building a one off with new slip yoke will get far to expensive. Around 750 euro, that is about 900$.
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[Hotrod1979]

today I measured what clearance I would have between a 3.5" thick one piece driveshaft and my crossmember. Because the yoke on the diff is not centered the clearance between de driveshaft and crossmember on the right side is only 5/16" That's can not be enough....

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Hotrod1979

today I measured what clearance I would have between a 3.5" thick one piece driveshaft and my crossmember. Because the yoke on the diff is not centered the clearance between de driveshaft and crossmember on the right side is only 5/16" That's can not be enough....

Almost sure I recall someone enlarging that opening and re-inforcing the x-member. Maybe Google will help.
Why can't you just shorten the tranny-end of your 2-piece shaft & use the bearing & slip-joint as is?
Sam

[Hotrod1979]

My slip yoke has far too much play to allow the shafts to be balanced out correctly..
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[Captainfab]

I would stay with a 2 piece driveshaft in a long bed. Do you have wrecking yards that would have some GM trucks from in the 70's and 80's? You should be able to find a driveshaft(s) from one of those that can be made to work. You can typically have a driveshaft shortened much cheaper than having one lengthened, or a complete new one built. And while at it I would upgrade to the HD center support bearing.

I believe I have some fairly good stock HD driveshafts, but I imagine shipping to The Netherlands would be expensive.