Help Needed ASAP!!!

[Nhoechst]

I just drove my truck onto the driveway and not even a minute later I went to turn on my accessories and they would not work, I then tried to start the truck and it wouldnt even turn over. I checked my battery and it has full voltage, both grounds have full power, and I cannot figure out what is wrong. My father said it could be the ignition switch, but I dont think it can be that since the lights, radio, horn, brake lights, and wipers wont work either. I already sanded the grounds to be sure, and I also already tried to start it in neutral and change through the gears. Please tell me any info you may have, I am taking it to an important show tomorrow night and need to be able to take it there!!
Thanks for any help!!

[Rufton]

I'd try a different batt first if you have one in another car.
No joy, I'd try to hot wire it.
Then work the DMM to check fuses, etc.
Did you clean positive main terminals also?

[Nhoechst]

Originally Posted by Rufton

I'd try a different batt first if you have one in another car.
No joy, I'd try to hot wire it.
Then work the DMM to check fuses, etc.
Did you clean positive main terminals also?

All my other cars have side threaded posts, I just checked all the fuses and they're all good too, and yes I did clean the positive main terminals also.
Thank you for your advice though!!

[SS Tim]

Is the wiring stock or modified like as in an internal regulator alternator?
How does the fuseable link look running from the battery pos to the junction on the right fender?
You are right some things are independent of the igniton switch like the lighs hazard lights, horn and brake lights.
But the turn signals, radio and wipers do run through the igniton switch.

Does anything electrical work?
Define "both grounds have full power".

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Is the wiring stock or modified like as in an internal regulator alternator?
How does the fuseable link look running from the battery pos to the junction on the right fender?You are right some things are independent of the igniton switch like the lighs hazard lights, horn and brake lights.
But the turn signals, radio and wipers do run through the igniton switch.

Does anything electrical work?
Define "both grounds have full power".

This... and this.

Gary

[Nhoechst]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Is the wiring stock or modified like as in an internal regulator alternator?
How does the fuseable link look running from the battery pos to the junction on the right fender?
You are right some things are independent of the igniton switch like the lighs hazard lights, horn and brake lights.
But the turn signals, radio and wipers do run through the igniton switch.

Does anything electrical work?
Define "both grounds have full power".

The wiring is stock, the fuseable link to the right fender was replaced a few months ago and is perfectly fine and has all volts, nothing electrical works, and both grounds from the battery (pos to the starter, neg to the frame) have 12.5 volts and all grounds are touching bare metal without any paint in the way.
Thanks for the suggestions!!

[Rufton]

12.5v when light switch is on?

[Nhoechst]

Yes, when I turn on the lights they do not affect the voltage, it stays the same.

[SS Tim]

Sorry, the fuseable link is in the harness between the battery junction block and the harness splice. So the quickest test now is for B+ at the alternator terminal where the 12ga red wire lands and at the regulator too.

[Nhoechst]

I checked that also, and have volts to that. But I turned the key and my brake light in the dash came on, so i tried to turn the headlights on, but then I lost power again. So I believe that means I have a short in my wiring somewhere right?

[D.PASSMORE]

Shorts will pop fuses. An open circuit or dirty connection causes these problems. Make sure negative side of the battery is grounded to frame. Seems you have a ground problem - dirty connection. Hook your negative lead to the frame and check you positive points without a load and then turn them on. See what happens.

[Rufton]

If shorted I'd expect batt voltage to drop.
Maybe try the wiggle test to find loose connection.
I'd break out the wiring diagram next.

[Nhoechst]

Originally Posted by Rufton

If shorted I'd expect batt voltage to drop.
Maybe try the wiggle test to find loose connection.
I'd break out the wiring diagram next.

Well I would try the wiggle test but since I have such wonderful luck, all of my flashlights are dead and its too dark to keep progressing. Looks like ill be goin to the show without my baby, but its all good there are still other shows in the future. I wont get a chance until Saturday to work on her again, so ill let yall know what I find out. Thanks for all the help guys!! I really appreciate it!
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[Nhoechst]

I had the dirty connect problem about 5 months ago, so I keep it clean, but I did check the negative ground and it is as clean as a whistle.
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[Rufton]

Sorry bout that.
Probably something simple like a bad battery wire, etc.

[Nhoechst]

I did have that problem once before too, but i did check those and they had 12.5 volts running thru them.
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[Rufton]

I just looked at wiring diagram for my car. If my car had your symptoms I would suspect loose main disconnect terminal on firewall. YMMV.

[Nhoechst]

Thanks ill be sure to check that on Saturday.
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[Zeke's Garage]

If you have power initially, then lose it when you put a load on the system, then you have a poor connection. Most likely at the battery terminal connections. You may be able to read 12+v but that doesn't mean it can carry any current.

Disconnect and re-connect all four power points for the battery, clean and tighten. Also if your battery cables have any age on them, check inside the insulation and see if the copper is green or black.. this will cause very high resistance and cause the problem you are describing.

[Nhoechst]

I got her back and running today. It was a bad/loose connecting where two wires were crimped together.
Thank you all for all the help!!
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[Rufton]

Congrats.
What wires were crimped?