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07-08-2013, 10:52 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lyndon, KY
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Roof gutter seam question
The seam seal in my roof gutter has shrunk back a little in places and I have one small piece about 2 inches long above the drivers door that has popped up.
I'm pretty sure I should cut out the section that has popped up and reseal it but haven't worked with this before. I would rather not have to remove all of the sealer in the gutter and have to repaint the whole thing. I guess to do it right that would be the best thing though. Any suggestions from the experts here? Thanks! Scott
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07-08-2013, 08:46 PM | #2 |
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Location: Ledyard, CT
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
I'd reseal the whole thing. The reason my 60 Apache had so much rust in the roof is the sealer failed in the gutter and the water just poured through. Also if one section of the sealer is loose then it's more than likely there's other loose sections too..
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07-08-2013, 09:16 PM | #3 |
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
x2 I'm dealing with the rust in the cab/roof area also. PO, who happens to be my dad, put what looks like plumbers putty in there.....didn't work too well.
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07-08-2013, 09:45 PM | #4 |
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
Thanks for the advise. I kind of expected the answer to go that way.
My other option as I see it is to not ever get it wet! You know tht's not going to happen. Thanks!
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07-08-2013, 09:55 PM | #5 |
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
Sorry about the paint, but if you have gaps or missing sealer anywhere there is already rust forming under all the rest of what’s left. Quick attention will minimize future cancer issues. I’d suggest chipping out all of the remaining sealer and then wire wheel the entire cavity to bare metal. If there’s no cancer, simply coat with epoxy primer followed by self leveling seam sealer. The primer doesn’t have to be sprayed, just mix it up, allow to set for the induction period per instructions and apply with a disposable brush.
I used the Evercoat Maxim self-leveling sealer. When I did mine I filled the sides and front of the gutter clear to the top where possible. This way the way the water just runs off instead of sitting in a channel with no way to drain. The nice part is it can be applied with a standard caulking gun. Many of the professional grade sealants require an expensive specialized application gun. Here's how it looks on mine: Although it’s self-leveling, it goes off pretty fast (5-10) minutes so it doesn’t require continuous attention to keep in place. I did place the truck on jack stands to provide the best level of the gutter possible. As best I remember I placed a couple of removable dams to control the flow, pulled them immediately when satisfied and continued around the channel. I also taped off the roof surface just inboard of the gutter, along with the outer face of the gutter so I wouldn’t have to clean up any mistakes. I used disposable gloves for any smoothing. I had a stack of popsicle sticks and tongue depressors on hand in case I needed them but don’t remember if any got used or not.
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07-08-2013, 10:20 PM | #6 |
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
I loved the lord fusor self leveling stuff, came out great, easy to work with, one tube will do a whole roof seam. panting the roof is easy because there's natural edge lines to work with to hide paint seams.
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07-09-2013, 09:01 AM | #7 |
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
Evercoat Maxim self-leveling sealer worked great. Standard chaulk gun. Prime, chaulk, prime, then paint. If you only put on what you need, 1 tube will cover the whole gutter. (The tools are for a back window install)
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07-09-2013, 10:03 AM | #8 |
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
X2 on the Fusor Self Leveling sealer. I used it on the '65 I restored and it was super easy to work with. It's paintable- no need to prime over it, and won't shrink or crack since it's an epoxy (no solvents to evaporate). Flows out smooth very smooth, no need to sand any of it except where it overlaps at your start/stop point.
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07-09-2013, 10:17 AM | #9 |
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Re: Roof gutter seam question
That's some beautiful work on the seams guys!
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