Need help identifying the year of my suspension! On 68 please!

[68chvy]

Alright guys thanks for looking! I bought this 68 (my first one) and t drives pretty rough I was wondering if this is 68 control arms ... It has 5 lugs up front.. Thanks for any comments or advice also my brake booster needs to b replaced.. Any ideas what this is off of or what I can use.. Thanks again I love this site!
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

Posted via Mobile Device

[mud.man.rj]

I believe they all had 6 lug not 5 lug until disc brakes in 71, but someone may have changed parts.

[68chvy]

Booster and master that came With truck
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

I believe they all had 6 lug not 5 lug until disc brakes in 71, but someone may have changed parts.

Yeah thanks.. that's what I'm tryna figure out what parts I got or what will work for ball joints.. Bushings.shocks.. Springs.etc.. I haven't tried the parts store yet.. Ones by me parts guys aren't much help lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

I put in a 2004 5.3L 4L60e dbw
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[mud.man.rj]

Well with disc and 5 lug you know it is a 71-72 front end for sure so pretty easy for parts.

[GMCPaul]

The control arms are 1967-70 on your truck as the brake line hose is routed to the rear of the control arm, if the control arms were 71-72 the brake line hose would be routed to the front of the control arm and since their is no bracket to attach the brake line & hose on the front its got to be 67-70.
But now you need to determine if its using disc conversion spindles or 71-72 spindles to have converted it to front disc brakes to find out what parts are on your 67-70 control arms. If its disc conversion then the upper & lower ball joints and tie rods are all stock for 67-70, but if its 71-72 up spindles then you need to use 71-72 upper & lower ball joints and 71-72 outer tie rod with adapter adjuster sleeve. 67-70 tie rods are a smaller diameter threaded shaft than the 71-72 I can't remember the exact sizes maybe someone will post it up. Is their a number cast into the spindle? If so post it up and I'll let you know if its a GM spindle.
Paul @ GMCPauls

[68chvy]

Thanks man that's some good info.. Ill see of I see a casting number on spindle
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

Any ideas on what this booster is off of? Or what I can use without changing too much?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tx Firefighter]

The crossmember is 70 and earlier. Odds are its the original one.

The control arms are 63-72 vintage. The steel bushings positively identify that.

I need to see the back side of the spindles to tell whether they are aftermarket or GM.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tx Firefighter]

GmcPaul is slightly incorrect on one thing. Those could easily be 71-72 control arms. The brake hose routing is dependent on where the brake line tabs are, but they are on the crossmember not the arms. Other than the ball joint differences, you cannot visually identify a 63-70 versus a 71-72 control arm.
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

If I am planning in changing the springs.. What should I order them for? 68?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tx Firefighter]

Springs are the same from 63-87 so order whatever is easiest.

Your booster looks like a stock 67-72 booster. The picture is dark but it looks like it has the original bracketry between the booster and firewall.

Your master cylinder is unknown, but you still have the stock brake drum brake distribution valve and not a disc brake type of proportioning valve.

Shoot a picture of the back of the spindle and I can tell you if its stock or drop spindles (OEM or aftermarket). Regardless of whether they're 63-70 conversion spindles, 71-72, or 73 and newer, you're gonna wind up taking them to the parts store and test fitting ball joints to see whether they're 63-70, 71-72, or 73-87 fitment.
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Springs are the same from 63-87 so order whatever is easiest.

Your booster looks like a stock 67-72 booster. The picture is dark but it looks like it has the original bracketry between the booster and firewall.

Your master cylinder is unknown, but you still have the stock brake drum brake distribution valve and not a disc brake type of proportioning valve.

Shoot a picture of the back of the spindle and I can tell you if its stock or drop spindles (OEM or aftermarket). Regardless of whether they're 63-70 conversion spindles, 71-72, or 73 and newer, you're gonna wind up taking them to the parts store and test fitting ball joints to see whether they're 63-70, 71-72, or 73-87 fitment.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks man so I need a proportioning valve as well?
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

Is this a good pic?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Tx Firefighter]

Those are not dropped spindles.

Now, to narrow it down a bit further, are the upper ball joints riveted to the control arms or bolted in ? Check both sides as one might be replaced and not the other.
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Those are not dropped spindles.

Now, to narrow it down a bit further, are the upper ball joints riveted to the control arms or bolted in ? Check both sides as one might be replaced and not the other.
Posted via Mobile Device

They are bolted in
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

And I'm planning on just getting another brake booster.. Does anyone know what I can use without changing brake pedal or lines.. Etc. idk what year mine is off of.. Or if this is stock? Sorry this is my first "old school" lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[68chvy]

if I wanted to order a set of drop spindles.. would I order them for what year suspension?

[BMERDOC]

You've got some good guys looking after you but I do have to ask...what do you mean by "rides rough"? The front coils are obviously junk and even with big rims on it I'd say it sits high for lowered spindles. Shake the front end down to look for loose parts. At least have the front wheels rebalanced (maybe all four) and swap out those junk springs for good springs. Jack the front end up under the the lower ball joint when checking the front end. Wiggle the front tires (first at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock then 12 and 6) look for excessive play in all joints including the wheel bearings.

[68chvy]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

You've got some good guys looking after you but I do have to ask...what do you mean by "rides rough"? The front coils are obviously junk and even with big rims on it I'd say it sits high for lowered spindles. Shake the front end down to look for loose parts. At least have the front wheels rebalanced (maybe all four) and swap out those junk springs for good springs. Jack the front end up under the the lower ball joint when checking the front end. Wiggle the front tires (first at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock then 12 and 6) look for excessive play in all joints including the wheel bearings.

Yeah.. guess it's the wheels.. I replaced springs.. made a difference.. now thinkingaboutloweringit.. nof sure what's the best route to go.just yet...
thanks

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by 68chvy

Yeah.. guess it's the wheels.. I replaced springs.. made a difference.. now thinkingaboutloweringit.. nof sure what's the best route to go.just yet...
thanks

I have an idea.
You could start by sending me those wheels.

[cool68]

if there is a reliable frontend shop that works on old cars/trucks have it checked out, do not have to let them do repairs. once you know what you have should look at putting a bigger disc brake set up on it - will look better and help those big wheels stop better.