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07-02-2003, 12:44 PM | #1 |
Hammer On!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 473
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Wood Bed ?
Those of you that have restored or are in the process of, what are you using to protect the wood from rot on the underside as well as the top? I'm not having much luck finding a good sealant and would like some info. Thanks for the help guys!
Aaron
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1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed |
07-02-2003, 12:45 PM | #2 |
Hammer On!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 473
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I forgot to mention im going with oak in my bed, it has pine currently, or whats left of it anyway. I don't know if that makes a difference on what sealant to use or not.
Aaron
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1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed |
07-02-2003, 12:52 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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I have heard that a Polyurthain (spell) is the best. not sure what company though .
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
07-02-2003, 06:44 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Knightdale,North Carolina
Posts: 377
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Look at a boat shop. They have some pretty good finishes
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07-03-2003, 12:50 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Emmett, Idaho
Posts: 858
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Spar Varnish
What I've used in the past is Spar Varnish. I've been doing custom woodwork for 20 years and for outside finish it's the ticket. It should be available at any good paint store. I have wood doors on my house that get quite a bit of sun and weather that still look great after 15 years. If you are going to stain use Watco Oil, before the Varnish. Let it dry for at least 2 full days. Watco has a Natural color if you are looking for a clear, it seals the woodand I think it's as important as the varnish. The secret is to stain all surfaces, top, bottom, edges, and the ends before varnish. The Varnish is very slow to dry, so plan on 4 days to do 2 coats. Sand lightly after the first and you will have a great finish. If the gloss is too much you can knock it down with some very fine steel wool.
LJ
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Larry 72 Chevy SWB 4x4 71 Chevy SWB 4x4 My Work Truck "Don't confuse enthusiasm with capability" |
07-03-2003, 01:04 AM | #6 |
senior member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: fort macleod alberta
Posts: 2,770
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polyurethane is what i used on mine i have to refinish it once a year. on the inderneath i had it srpay bed linered stands up great hellmans is the brand i used for the yurethane works great and stands up to the weather
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69 GMC bagged |
07-03-2003, 08:25 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: hughesville, pa usa
Posts: 337
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My opinion...oil finish
I put an oak bed in my 67 two years ago and one of the board members gave me a recipie that sounded off the wall but worked great. I mixed linseed oil, turpentine, paint thinner to make a watered down mix. Gave it a coat a day for almost two weeks letting the oil soak in the whole way around the board. After the 6th day, the gloss reallycame out in the wood and even though my truck is garage kept (over nights), there is still a shine on those boards after two years. I considered the poly finishes but didn't want the every year do over. Don't have that kind of time.
Dave
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Dave Benamati Hughesville, PA USA |
07-03-2003, 02:32 PM | #8 |
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Location: Easley, South Carolina
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dbenamati, What recipe?
What were the ratio's used in this blend? Thanks, Headquarters.
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Richard Dobson |
07-03-2003, 02:49 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: hughesville, pa usa
Posts: 337
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Ratios
I can't remember exactly since it was a few years ago but I do remember I got a gallon of "Boiled" Linseed oil (not the raw oil) and filled an empty paint can to half with the oil and then used one quart turpentine and just a little paint thinner to keep it viscous. I would paint the mixture on the boards, letting it dry for a day in the sun and steel wooling the boards between coats for about 10 coats. Make sure it is totally dry before steel wooling or else it will leave flecks of the steel wool in the oil finish when it does dry. I checked with a friend who works at a lumber specialty factory (making wooden jungle jims, etc.) and he said since presure treated lumber isn't good for that stuff anymore (cancer causing Iguess) that they use the same mixture except they use something called "Japanese Drier" in their mix almost like adding hardener to bodyfiller. Everything I mentioned you can pick up at a Lowe's or home improvemet center for just a few dollars. I think I paid about $15 for all my supplies . I have to say I had my doubts but it's held up really well and still beads water when it rains. Also it is easy to touch up when scuffed. Hope this helps.
Dave
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Dave Benamati Hughesville, PA USA |
07-03-2003, 02:52 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NEBRASKA
Posts: 188
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MINWAX SPAR URETHANE ONLY WAY TO GO!!!
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07-03-2003, 05:33 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Crescent City, FL
Posts: 492
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A good oil based exterior house paint served me well for years.
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