Picked up my 71 last week and I have a couple of questions

[ksshane]

Told the wife I needed to get an old truck to haul stuff around.

So I found this 1971 SWB (Ive always wanted one, but I didn't let her know how excited I was to find one). But I guess I wasn't very good at hiding my excitement because the next day when she saw it the first thing out of her mouth was "Oh lord, that's not a junk hauler, your going to fix that up"

It does need your standard work. Rockers and what not. Its a 350 (originally inline 6) with a 4 speed manual transmission. It runs pretty good. I drove it 200 miles to get it home with no problems, but in that 200 miles I realized I don't care for this 4 speed manual transmission. Maybe its my old age but Im thinking Im going to have to swap out to a automatic.

So this leads into my first question. What is the easiest automatic transmission to put in its place. Im just looking for a cruiser. Don't need to break any sound barriers or anything like that. Just a good old reliable transmission. I know people put the th350 in there and the 700r4's but which is the easiest one. I know there are issues like lengths and widths that could be a factor.

Now for my second question. I said it runs pretty good. And it does. Doesn't leak a drop of oil and all that. But I had to resort to my highschool days to remember what to do when your truck just turns over but wont start. Yea you guys know what Im talking about. The good ole stuck choke. Took me awhile to remember that one. But I know have the standard screwdriver that we all carried for just an occasion.
Refresh my memory. How do I go about fixing that? Computer chips and airconditioning have fried my brain.

Anyway. Didn't mean to write a book. Appreciate your time and any help you can offer. Im sure Ill be back with more questions if I cant find what Im looking for using the search option.

Thanks

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The best automatic to put in is the 7ooR4 because it as the o-drive to give you better highway cruiseing. But changing to an auto means you have to remove the crossmember that goes under the bell housing.
The choke problem. You need to give it less spring pressure & make sure it is getting heat to release the choke as it warms up. There are so many different styles of chokes used that its hard to describe how to fix it. Holding your gas pedal tight to the floor while you crank it will generally get it started.

[geezer#99]

What carb?
And a pic of the choke side of the carb would help!

[In The Ten Ring]

How about a manual choke? That's what my dad did to his (now my) 1972 and I have no desire to change it.

[mmiddle]

Yes, we need pics of the carb. If you are lucky is has a later Q-jet with a "heat-tube" type choke. That way it is easy and cheap to convert it to an electric chock from a late model carb. effectively eliminating any more choke problems.

And Welcome and congrats on fooling the wife.

[ksshane]

Ill take a picture in the morning and post

[Mister-B]

Welcome

What octane gas are you using? When I first got my truck, I used premium 91, and it was too rich for it. The truck prefers just regular unleaded. Try cleaning your carb with some carb spray and look at maybe adjusting the choke and idle. The first time I start my truck, I pump the gas pedal twice before turning the key in the winter time. Once in the summer. Try a good gas additive, like Lucas. Your plugs might also be due for a change.

As for transmissions, the 700r4 is good, but if you don't really do much highway driving, you may also find that the bulletproof heavy duty th400 is just the ticket. I'm assuming you could get one to fit your application.
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[71cheynne402]

Nice to see some one else from wichita!! Welcome to the board!!!
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[rsavage]

Any automatic replacement of the truck 4 speed is going to involve some work. You'll need a flex plate (don't forget to take out the pilot bushing from the end of the crank), a block mounted starter instead of the bell mounted starter you have, the transmission, cooling lines and a radiator that has fittings for them (or an auxiliary cooler), an auto cross member, an auto column and shift linkage (or an aftermarket auto floor shift), a new yoke for the drive shaft that will fit the auto, and your driveshaft shortened. The stick crossmember is riveted in and you will work hard removing it grinding and air chiseling it out. A TH 350 is about the easiest to find and is pretty bullet proof for a non OD transmission. The 200 4R or 700 R are OD choices but the throttle valve cable is adjustment is critical to having the transmission live. Bow Tie Overdrives has some info on their web site and there are past discussions on this board on auto swaps too. Good luck on whatever you decide and welcome.

[ksshane]

Rsavage,

That was some great info. Dropped the transmission down the list of things to do, but I made of list from what you said and will start collecting what I need to make it happen eventually.

Me and my son (he is 8 and really excited about the truck) will be going thru it today. I'll get some pictures posted of that carb.

71cheynne402 - Yes it is. Hope to see you out and about some time.

[Tinkermc]

my vote would also be the 700R4, helps gas mileage 2.

[ksshane]

Okay. So here is a pic of the carburetor.



As I did my investigation of the truck I also found what I believe to be the choke cable. Someone had it zip tied to the brake fluid reservoir.

I had noticed an annoying rattling sound when I drove the truck home. I had assumed it was a washer on a loose bolt. What I found was a rod that goes along the passenger side of the frame that is just hanging loose. Its about 2 foot long or so. Not sure what that's for.

And then I found out that both my rear shocks have been cut off at the top and they are only facing upwards from the pressure from the bolts in the bottom. I also found out that this use to be a step side and along the way someone put a swb on it. From what I can tell the brackets for the shocks don't even line up anymore.
Nothing that cant be fixed. Just wish I would have noticed it before I drove it 200 miles.

[71cheynne402]

There's a car show at the 53rd and meridian walmart every froday night about 7 bring ur truck by
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[ksshane]

Thinking about swapping the carb out for some off the shelf eldebrock at the local store. What do I need to do if I go with an electric choke? The wiring on this thing is a mess.

[ksshane]

Ill do that.. My son would love that.

[mmiddle]

Ummmmm... This rod you speak of???? it is perhaps the track bar on the rear-end? If it is, it is highly dangerous to drive this truck with that un-attached. perhaps this is why your shocks don't line up.
If so, push the rear of the truck over and reconnect this rod. Then replace the shocks.

As far as running a Edlebrock carb with E-choke... Just run a fused hot wire from the ignition switch (ign. on) to the choke coil. Vola, you have electric choke. It is that simple.

[ksshane]

Ill get under there and take a picture. Be back in a few

[geezer#99]

Sure would have been nice if you took a pic of the choke side of the carb. Appears to be a divorced choke carb but without a pic can't tell if your manifold is set up to make it work.
An edelbrock carb won't bolt on without an adaptor. TO hook up an electric choke you just need a 12v supply to the choke coil.

[ksshane]

Okay. Here is the mystery rod. It goes through the frame right here. You can see it sticking through the front of the frame



And here it is on the other end. It fits up into the frame rails and stops just before the end of the cab. What I was hearing was it ratting against the exhaust.



And then I just thought Id add my wonderful discovery as I was looking for what was making the noise under the truck - Why someone would leave the shocks like that I have no idea

[ksshane]

Ill get a picture of the choke side

[mmiddle]

Oh, OK. First you have leaf spring rear suspension. OK Good. That rod you are referring to is for the E-brake cable. Ether replace and fix the e-brake system now... or wire-tie that sucker up so it does not rattle.

[ksshane]

I got it tied up for now. Would like to hook it back up but that's down the road.

Thanks for the quick response