Think I might need some advice with this motor

[jackwalkeasy]

Hello, John here,

I got me a 350 chevy motor to rebuild and put in my 68 C-10.
I think the motor came from some chevy in 78 or 79 because it,s blue.
But I,m going to rebuild it as if i is a 72 350 in a C-10.
It's been about 10 years since I mess with a motor. So I'm needing a little guidance I think.
I'm going to build it stock. The truck already has headers on it. So I'll be running them with a Q-jet 4 barrell and The Ele Ig. And a 400 auto trans.
The motor is apart. I will have the cam barrings put in.
I'll get a new cam and liftters. And have the heads rebuilt.
The frist thing I got is the lifters. I put them in a can filled with oil.
The Crank mic at 2.4800. So i,ll reuse it with an undersize barring.
Does it sound like I'm going in the right direction so far?

[TBONE1964]

The first thing to consider is what kind of life do you expect this engine to live. In order to get 100,000 good miles you need to have the cylinders bored and use new oversize pistons. If it is a standard bore, the normal is .030" over. Along with this, make sure all of the crank journals mic the same. The normal machining for a standard crank is .010", .020" or .030 depending on wear. It is not suggested to exceed .030". Make sure the rods are checked and resized if needed. Ring end gaps and crank shaft end play also need to be measured. This is all standard practice for rebuilding any engine.

You may consider buying a GM crate engine with all new parts and a warranty for most likely less money than you will have into parts and machining of your engine.

[MARKDTN]

If I was going to the trouble of building a motor today (and it wasn't numbers matching) I would not build a 2-pc seal block. I would find a 1-pc seal block and build it. They have better metal. They have vastly improved sealing. You can boilt on early heads (I woudn't do that either, but that's another post). Unless you really look hard you can't tell the difference. Just my .02.