Need specs on running gear

[JimJones]

Hey guys I'm wondering what axels front and rear and what transfer case's these trucks came with from the factory.
The trucks I would like to know about are:
4x4 1/2 ton long bed
and
4x4 3/4 ton long bed

[argonaut]

What year?

[JimJones]

67-72

[Stocker]

They were not all the same. My '72 K20 came with D44 front, Eaton rear, and NP205 t-case.

[Redcap]

These are 40+ year old trucks. No telling what has been swapped in.

[andrewmp6]

They both have a good point,Are you looking to buy one?You can take pictures of both axles and the t case and we can id them for you.

[JimJones]

I'm wondering what they came with originally from the factory. Right now I'm researching different components involved with these trucks to put together a spec list of what I want when I build mine.


Stocker got any more pics of the truck in your avatar?

[jeffahart]

the standard k20 factory setup is generally = based on what I've seen.
HD44 open knuckle (70 and earlier Drum brakes)
SM465
NP205
Eaton HO52 and likely with Detroit locker.

It seems like gearing options correlate with engine size.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by JimJones

Stocker got any more pics of the truck in your avatar?

There's another one in a really old thread but I can't find it... sorry.

[vectorit]

If you are building one, then build it with your choice of parts.

If you are building to OE spec for restoration purposes, then it's easier if you could tell us what year your truck is.

The 67-72 list of options in the running gear department isn't very long.

[JimJones]

I don’t own one of these trucks "yet". I was just curious what they came with from the factory. If you were building one from scratch which axel front and rear and transfer case would you choose if you were going with a 500 hp motor and 33" tires. I don’t plan on any serious "off roading" or abuse but I want the drive train to be able to withstand this power without breaking parts. I also want to be able to burn a set of BFG's any time I feel the need without worrying that I'm going to snap an axle or grenade the rear differential.


Like I said in another thread I had a buddy that built a really nice 3/4 ton Silverado. I was directly behind him while we were pulling out of a drive thru. There was a little bit of water in the gutter and he decided to light up the tires. As soon as the tires hooked up with dry pavement it was snap crackle pop as he reared blew up. I don’t want to be that guy. I want to be able to light up the tires anytime I want and not have to worry about broken parts.
How would you spec your rear axle to avoid this?

[Stocker]

If you're building an "unbreakable" truck you don't need factory parts. Maybe start by looking at trucks built by Dirty Larry and mosesburb. They both used D60 front axles and, I think, 14BFF rear axles.

A little reading to get you started:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551921
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=303017

[Mr. 250r]

I would be somewhat surprised if he did that on say a near stock motor with a full floater now i'm not sure on the semi floater axle strength differences but that could've been under there but chances are most everyone is going to recommend a 14b ff for the rear and since your shooting for 500hp then they will point you in the almighty dana 60 front which isn't exactly cheap say.... 900 range give or take year/condition/seller/luck/etc but as the saying goes. Gotta pay to play lol

[andrewmp6]

I would find a 4x4 truck long bed or short bed that's up to you,But they are right dana 60 front and maybe rear too or a 14 bolt which will be swapped in from a 73 and newer truck.What trans again up to you on auto or stick on the t case a np205 is hard to beat.