Looking for tips - C30 front wheel bearing adjustment

[JellyBeanDriver]

I'm about to undertake repacking/replacing if they're bad the front wheel bearings on our 86' C30 crewcab dually.

I've looked through the factory service manual but the photos and procedures don't show or mention anything about the C30's massive rotor/hub assembly.

Is it treated just like the C10's brakes?

Manual says to tighten the nut to 12 lbs-ft while rotating rotor, then back off till loose, then hand tighten and back off until the cotter pin fits. Same for the C30?

Also, how does one get the dust cap off? - it's in a recessed pocket.

TIA,
Dave

[KQQL IT]

That's how we used to adjust them on our tow trucks. And use that tool. ^
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[gchemist]

If you replace the bearings, replaced the racers. If you don't, the bearings will wear out prematurely. Use high temp wheel bearing grease. Red or black work great.

[donut]

I didn't have the tool KQQL IT posted. I used a long thin screwdriver and popped off the cap. Replacement dust caps were only a couple bucks. (old ones got trashed.) There is a hole in the side of the hub about where the dust cap is.

Pretty much treat them like any other wheel bearing. What I do is just snug up the nut to seat the bearings, then loosen it and run it up finger tight. Kinda just an educated guess on the 12#.

Little neanderthal, but works for me...

[JellyBeanDriver]

Thanks everyone! Just ordered Timken bearings from RockAuto. Much less expensive than AZ. Will likely tackle it this coming weekend if the parts show up in time.

[JellyBeanDriver]

Today was the day.
- new front bearings
- new brake pads (wagner severe duty)
- flushed brake fluid

Wasn't too bad other than just being a LONG day. Getting the dust cover off was no problem thanks to that access hole. Old bearings could have been re-used but I had already bought mail-order replacements.

Steel wire hand brushed all the loose rust to keep it from getting into the bearing area, 150 grit sand paper in a palm sander to roughen up the braking surface on the rotors. Cleaned it all up, put in new races, packed the bearings put it all back in.

Torqued nut to 12 lb-ft while rotating the rotor, then backed off until loose, then finger tightened and then backed off until one of the cotter pin holes lined up. For both sides the nut didn't have to be backed off much.

Net result is that braking is now firmer sooner. Before doing this I could definitely feel the free play in the bearings by grabbing the tire and rocking it. Brake pads too before wouldn't drag on the rotor either with the wheel off the ground due to the free play helping to push the pistons in further. Now it feels like a passenger car when the wheel is off the ground - barely perceptible free play and the brake pedal is firmer sooner due to not having to take up the caliper piston being pushed back in a smidge.

[donut]

Good, sounds like you got it knocked. Next project....

I only remember that stuff cause I had to get my rotors turned.

[JellyBeanDriver]

Originally Posted by donut

Good, sounds like you got it knocked. Next project....

I only remember that stuff cause I had to get my rotors turned.

How did they mount up the rotor? (does it center on the bearing races?) Given the size, is it common that pretty much anyone can turn them?

I thought about it but didn't have a place lined up ahead of time.

[donut]

Iirc, it was hub/rotor assembly. Mine were pretty tore up. Local O'Reillys did them while I waited. I figured the 12 or 15 bucks (per) they charged me was worth seeing if they would clean up. Knock on wood, they had to go to the max, but they're useable. (I did witness this, as I don't trust just anybody telling me that their junk.)

Besides, their new hub/rotor assembly was abt 125.00 ea. So 25-30 bucks spent, kept me from shelling out 250.00+.

[JellyBeanDriver]

Originally Posted by donut

Iirc, it was hub/rotor assembly. Mine were pretty tore up. Local O'Reillys did them while I waited. I figured the 12 or 15 bucks (per) they charged me was worth seeing if they would clean up. Knock on wood, they had to go to the max, but they're useable. (I did witness this, as I don't trust just anybody telling me that their junk.)

Besides, their new hub/rotor assembly was abt 125.00 ea. So 25-30 bucks spent, kept me from shelling out 250.00+.

Good to know. Thanks for the heads up. Didn't know O'reilly could do it.

[donut]

Call around, some NAPA stores used to, don't know who else does or what's local to you.
The down side on mine is if the rotors ever need refacing again, it's replacement time.