should I c-notch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

merlin3 · 08-20-2013, 06:22 AM

i am lowering my c10 5 inches in the rear.should i install a c-notch kit? I have heard some guys don't bother to do it .I will not be doing any heavy hauling just cruising,also will i need to get the special drop crossmember that the driveshaft goes through? thanks for the help.

Tshort1 · 08-20-2013, 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merlin3

i am lowering my c10 5 inches in the rear.should i install a c-notch kit? I have heard some guys don't bother to do it .I will not be doing any heavy hauling just cruising,also will i need to get the special drop crossmember that the driveshaft goes through? thanks for the help.

I would do the notch i did 5 on mine and installed it you will be happier when all said and done knowing you did it right the first time. No you do not have to have the cross member.

original-71 · 08-20-2013, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merlin3

i am lowering my c10 5 inches in the rear.should i install a c-notch kit? I have heard some guys don't bother to do it .I will not be doing any heavy hauling just cruising,also will i need to get the special drop crossmember that the driveshaft goes through? thanks for the help.

like you said you dont plan on doing any heavy hauling so i wouldnt bother if you are only doing 5 inches spend that money on something else for your truck.

67chevemall · 08-20-2013, 09:12 AM

Not needed. My tires sit .5" from the wheel well without and still have lots of bag for suspension.

Tx Firefighter · 08-20-2013, 09:31 AM

I've built half a dozen of these trucks in the last 10 years, all lowered 6 inches in the back. Never notched a single one. Typically I haul motorcycles or drive unloaded. I don't see the need for it.
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STOCKISH · 08-20-2013, 10:10 AM

^^Agreed^^, I dont think its needed if only dropping 5 inches.

**leddzepp** · 08-20-2013, 10:43 AM

I put 5" drop springs in my truck and only had about 1/2" clearance from hitting the frame. It bottomed out going over bumps frequently. I ended up notching and no more problems. Try it without, and if you need it install it, not hard to do at all.

**Ironangel** · 08-20-2013, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I put 5" drop springs in my truck and only had about 1/2" clearance from hitting the frame. It bottomed out going over bumps frequently. I ended up notching and no more problems. Try it without, and if you need it install it, not hard to do at all.

+1

I lowered my C-10 LWB 4" with the 4" drop springs and bump stops are 1" off the axle...When I haul my 500lb bike or an engine...Bump stops are on the axle...Its not a tire clearance issue, its an axle to frame clearance issue that like LeddZepp indicated...Go ahead and try the 5" and go from there...In my case since I do use my truck to haul (mostly ass) occasionally...I'm looking into shorty overloads...Another factor to keep in mind as well is that anything beyond a 4" drop will require shock re-locators and shorty shocks as well as an adjustable or shortened panhard bar...In reality 5" is dead on the border line of requiring a C-Notch...

Tx Firefighter · 08-20-2013, 11:16 AM

What brand of rear springs are y'all using? You've all seen the stuff I put together and always use ECE springs. I do remove the tall bumpstops and cut them shorter with a hacksaw. Never an issue with excessive bottoming out, including hauling Honda GL1000 Goldwings. Unloaded, I can't think of a time I've ever bottomed out. There's a layer of dust on the axle where the bumpstops havent touched it in ages.

**leddzepp** · 08-20-2013, 11:46 AM

I used 5" CPP springs, which I have found are the SAME as the 6" springs ECE offers. Board member Shawno72 has even swapped out his 5" springs for the ECE 6" springs and the truck actually sat higher...I am pretty sure the vendors get their springs from the same manufacturer and just put their name on it.

sprint_9 · 08-20-2013, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I used 5" CPP springs, which I have found are the SAME as the 6" springs ECE offers. Board member Shawno72 has even swapped out his 5" springs for the ECE 6" springs and the truck actually sat higher...I am pretty sure the vendors get their springs from the same manufacturer and just put their name on it.

Good to know since I have CPP 5" springs and was wondering how they would measure up to the ECE's.

67 chevelle · 08-21-2013, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I used 5" CPP springs, which I have found are the SAME as the 6" springs ECE offers. Board member Shawno72 has even swapped out his 5" springs for the ECE 6" springs and the truck actually sat higher...I am pretty sure the vendors get their springs from the same manufacturer and just put their name on it.

I have the ccp kit also , I believe it sits lower than the advertised 5 inches , it is also an inch diferant , left to right , trucks never been hit , and I did all springs and shocks at the same time , that said it does not bottom , no need for a c-notch . Im just going to put a spacer under the low side

ccp 3-5 drop kit

**CC69Rat** · 08-20-2013, 01:22 PM

For 5" rear spring, I wouldn't notch it. 6" + then yes..

The factory cross member will be fine. I would consider shock relocation brackets and an ECE super track bar (if you haven't already)

jondancer · 08-20-2013, 09:08 PM

No
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garett · 08-20-2013, 09:35 PM

Mines dropped and has no had it done am I'm definitely going to get it done, all I do is cruze, trust me do it
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hfd410 · 08-20-2013, 09:46 PM

4/6 ECE drop kit on my 71 with no notch. No problems at all, no where near bottoming out.

merlin3 · 08-21-2013, 05:00 AM

thanks for all the replies,huge help i will post pictures of the build as soon as i figure out how to.

Square_78 · 08-21-2013, 05:05 AM

May as well do a notch then you don't have to worry. I had 6" springs in the back of mine and it was 1/2" from the frame. Bottomed out constantly.
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**Tom Vogel** · 08-21-2013, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Square_78

May as well do a notch then you don't have to worry. I had 6" springs in the back of mine and it was 1/2" from the frame. Bottomed out constantly.
Posted via Mobile Device

Square-78...does your GMC have leaf springs? Because that would be a different result than coils.

MoFormula · 08-21-2013, 09:43 AM

I am following this thread closely because I am on the verge of ordering a drop kit for my 1972 GMC LWB. It would help a lot to know the posters' experiences with leaf springs versus coils.

**leddzepp** · 08-21-2013, 10:20 AM

Bottom line: Results will vary, use if needed.

67 chevelle · 08-21-2013, 10:46 AM

I and most others I believe assume , you have coils in back , if you have leafs its totally different than my truck

knomadd · 08-21-2013, 04:54 PM

I have CPP 3" drop springs and 2" drop blocks with no frame mods whatsoever. Factory frame from front to back, including cross member. No bumps or rubs anywhere. The PO cut the bump stops down a bit as he had 5" springs (I assume they where 5" because it sits the same with the spring/block combo I put in.) It definitely rides nicer with taller springs and drop blocks then it did with an all spring drop. I also have an adjustable panhard bar, and rear shock relocators.

08-20-2013, 06:22 AM	#1
merlin3 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: nantucket,ma Posts: 230	should I c-notch i am lowering my c10 5 inches in the rear.should i install a c-notch kit? I have heard some guys don't bother to do it .I will not be doing any heavy hauling just cruising,also will i need to get the special drop crossmember that the driveshaft goes through? thanks for the help.

08-20-2013, 09:12 AM	#4
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	Re: should I c-notch Not needed. My tires sit .5" from the wheel well without and still have lots of bag for suspension. __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD

08-20-2013, 09:31 AM	#5
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: should I c-notch I've built half a dozen of these trucks in the last 10 years, all lowered 6 inches in the back. Never notched a single one. Typically I haul motorcycles or drive unloaded. I don't see the need for it. Posted via Mobile Device

08-20-2013, 10:10 AM	#6
STOCKISH Formerly- 1972SuperCheyenne Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wake Forest NC Posts: 5,782	Re: should I c-notch ^^Agreed^^, I dont think its needed if only dropping 5 inches. __________________ --Josh My Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799218 A good crossthread is better than Loctite any day. Life is not about what you have, but who you have to share it with.

08-20-2013, 10:43 AM	#7
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 20,036	Re: should I c-notch I put 5" drop springs in my truck and only had about 1/2" clearance from hitting the frame. It bottomed out going over bumps frequently. I ended up notching and no more problems. Try it without, and if you need it install it, not hard to do at all. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul

08-20-2013, 11:16 AM	#9
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: should I c-notch What brand of rear springs are y'all using? You've all seen the stuff I put together and always use ECE springs. I do remove the tall bumpstops and cut them shorter with a hacksaw. Never an issue with excessive bottoming out, including hauling Honda GL1000 Goldwings. Unloaded, I can't think of a time I've ever bottomed out. There's a layer of dust on the axle where the bumpstops havent touched it in ages.

08-20-2013, 11:46 AM	#10
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 20,036	Re: should I c-notch I used 5" CPP springs, which I have found are the SAME as the 6" springs ECE offers. Board member Shawno72 has even swapped out his 5" springs for the ECE 6" springs and the truck actually sat higher...I am pretty sure the vendors get their springs from the same manufacturer and just put their name on it. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul

08-20-2013, 01:22 PM	#13
CC69Rat Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chattanooga TN Posts: 6,214	Re: should I c-notch For 5" rear spring, I wouldn't notch it. 6" + then yes.. The factory cross member will be fine. I would consider shock relocation brackets and an ECE super track bar (if you haven't already) __________________ Chad 1967 C10 SWB - Project Savannah - 6.0/4L80 Currently underway 1968 C10 SWB - TOTY 2018, 50th Anniversary Tribute Project * Sold * Pride and Joy 1986 Silverado Short Fleet - Scarlet Sold 1985 Silverado Short Fleet Sold 2022 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted, Built 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted 2013 Honda Accord EX-L v6 Coupe 6spd (wife's ride)

08-20-2013, 09:08 PM	#14
jondancer Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: central michigan Posts: 1,194	Re: should I c-notch No Posted via Mobile Device

08-20-2013, 09:35 PM	#15
garett Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: tacoma wa Posts: 35	Re: should I c-notch Mines dropped and has no had it done am I'm definitely going to get it done, all I do is cruze, trust me do it Posted via Mobile Device

08-20-2013, 09:46 PM	#16
hfd410 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Burleson Texas Posts: 570	Re: should I c-notch 4/6 ECE drop kit on my 71 with no notch. No problems at all, no where near bottoming out.

08-21-2013, 05:00 AM	#17
merlin3 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: nantucket,ma Posts: 230	Re: should I c-notch thanks for all the replies,huge help i will post pictures of the build as soon as i figure out how to.

08-21-2013, 05:05 AM	#18
Square_78 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada Posts: 1,237	Re: should I c-notch May as well do a notch then you don't have to worry. I had 6" springs in the back of mine and it was 1/2" from the frame. Bottomed out constantly. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ #teamlongbed "I refuse to go disc brakes. I actually love drum brakes. It makes for an adventure." - 50bomb 1978 Chevy shop truck - static 6/8" 1970 GMC 1500 - Accuair eLevel Resto-mod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=537497

08-21-2013, 09:43 AM	#20
MoFormula Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: SE MO Posts: 106	Leaf versus Coil I am following this thread closely because I am on the verge of ordering a drop kit for my 1972 GMC LWB. It would help a lot to know the posters' experiences with leaf springs versus coils.

08-21-2013, 10:20 AM	#21
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 20,036	Re: should I c-notch Bottom line: Results will vary, use if needed. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul



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08-21-2013, 10:46 AM	#22
67 chevelle Registered User Join Date: May 2013 Location: WEST PALM FLORIDA Posts: 1,174	Re: should I c-notch I and most others I believe assume , you have coils in back , if you have leafs its totally different than my truck

08-21-2013, 04:54 PM	#23
knomadd Registered User Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Rosenberg, Texas Posts: 3,506	Re: should I c-notch I have CPP 3" drop springs and 2" drop blocks with no frame mods whatsoever. Factory frame from front to back, including cross member. No bumps or rubs anywhere. The PO cut the bump stops down a bit as he had 5" springs (I assume they where 5" because it sits the same with the spring/block combo I put in.) It definitely rides nicer with taller springs and drop blocks then it did with an all spring drop. I also have an adjustable panhard bar, and rear shock relocators. __________________ -Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby)

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