55,,,, 2nd series question

[chopnchaneled]

I normaly hang out on the 67-72 board, but i just got a 55 2nd series 3100
in the shop and it has a leaking pinion seal, i've tried several local parts store and no help.(they don't have a listing)
anybody got a part #? bearings and drive said they could find it if i had a # that they could cross reference.
Thanks

[_Ogre]

welcome to the dark side
big box part store computers are pretty worthless past 68, ''does it have ac?''
try the local napa or independent parts store, i've never had a problem with a part number at napa

[1958Warrior]

Yes, very important question by Orge, but I belive it should have DC power,not AC.
ha ha

Just looked at my favorite site RockAuto.com , they have em depends on the rear end in the truck ,and they give you the measurments so you can measure ID <OD shaft size ect. to be sure and about 1/2 price of Auto zone, who also had em.

[Coupeguy2001]

take the drive shaft yoke off the rear end and pop the seal out of the housing. The bearing number is etched on the inner race, and you will be able to see it if you wipe it with a rag without actually removing it. There will be a part number on the face of the seal as well If it is not on the metal ring that holds the seal, it will be molded into the rubber that is actually the seal.

Here is what you need to try first:

take a short handled ratchet so you do not get any real force, and try to tighten the pinion nut just a little. do not use any force, as there is a crush sleeve that sets the bearing preload between the pinion inner and outer bearings.
ALSO:
There is also the movement of the pinion forward that will destroy the relationship between the ring gear and the pinion if you tighten it hard at all.
tightening the nut to where it doesn't move easy will restore the preload if the bearings are not worn out, (if the nut loosened up a little) and keep the pinion from wobbling slightly.
If you have worn bearings, you have to take the whole thing apart to change the pinion bearings anyway. There is an inner and outer, so buy two, with races (they will have to be pressed in as well) the races have a number on them, but you won't be able to see them without pressing them out.
Usually, if you are backyarding this, When you press the inner bearing off the pinion shaft, there will be a shim under the bearing, possibly two. Do not lose it, it will have to go back on under the new bearing, and right away, get out a micrometer, and measure it. If you screw up the shim by any accidental means, you can get another one if you know what it is.
IF YOU ARE BACK YARDING IT, JUST BE SURE THAT WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE PINION NUT, IT IS SNUG. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT, AGAIN, IT WILL ALTER THE RING GEAR RELATIONSHIP TO THE PINION..
Just making sure the nut hasn't backed off may get you a little time before you have to get the pumpkin rebuilt, but change the seal and see what it gets you.