Lowering Questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

the_69_C10 · 09-10-2013, 05:49 PM

I know it's been asked a thousand times but....
I'm going to lower my truck 4/6 hopefully! I'm not gonna do a C Notch because many people say I don't need it. And My Welding Sucks. So ECE has a 4/6 but with front spindles, Hotchkis has a 4/6 with just springs. Will the Hotchkis kit be just as good? I really don't want to swap spindles yet. Thanks in advance

You guys mind checking out my thread? Not much there, I'm going to gt more pictures up soon! Sorry!

sduckworth13 · 09-10-2013, 07:15 PM

Here, I'll change your mind on the C-notch. It's so easy a caveman can do it... so I bought one. The Porterbuilt C-notch is the way to go from my own experience installing the one piece c-notch. This setup takes the guess work out of the installer from wondering if the notch is lined up right under your rear axle and the two piece design allows the first plate that bolts on the frame to be used as a template which makes cutting the notch worry free. The second plate of has the notch and it just slides into place and bolts up. I have installed a C-notch before and it was a hack job to say the least, I had to weld up some sections where I cut to much material out of the frame.

sduckworth13 · 09-10-2013, 07:17 PM

Here is a link
http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/?p=385
Posted via Mobile Device

Pro Performance · 09-10-2013, 07:20 PM

I would lean towards the ECE, since it uses spindles. I my opinion, this is the better way to go, so that you are not using the spring to get the complete 4" of drop. As for the c-notch, it does add a little more clearance, depending on what you will be using the truck for and if you will be hauling things. Scott is right, the PB c-notch does make it simple, because you can use one of the pieces as a template. It is built extremely well and very heavy duty. I would suggest the PB notch if you do decide to add one.

We have heard good things about the ECE kit.

the_69_C10 · 09-10-2013, 07:26 PM

Does soindles make a difference then all 4" with springs? Thanks Guys.

*Fitz* · 09-10-2013, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the_69_C10

Does soindles make a difference then all 4" with springs? Thanks Guys.

HUGE difference. The spring only approach really screws up the front end geometry. In short your truck will hangdle like a pig and I suspect you will be breaking tie rod ends. At the very least you will need a new pittman arm. 2 in drop in the spindle and 2 in drop in the spring is a much better way to get 4 in lower.

the_69_C10 · 09-10-2013, 07:29 PM

On the Porterbuilt kit, what comes welded together?

Pro Performance · 09-10-2013, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the_69_C10

On the Porterbuilt kit, what comes welded together?

Each piece is welded to create it, but the 2 pieces themselves don't get welded upon installation. They just bolt to the frame.

The additional pictures here show it...
http://www.azproperformance.com/Port...0-C-Notch.html

Pro Performance · 09-10-2013, 07:30 PM

The spindle will lower the truck 2" without effecting suspension geometry or ride quality. A 2" spring will effect it less (vs. a 4" spring), since the arms stay closer to the factory position. Of course, an alignment will bring it back to where it needs to be. In some cases. it can be difficult to align using a 4" spring, since the control arms are much farther up and away from the factory ride height position. I don't have personal experience aligning a truck with a 4" spring, but I have heard of people having issues. Maybe someone with 4" springs can shed some light on this.

the_69_C10 · 09-10-2013, 07:34 PM

So there is no welding on my part? Just trace the pattern and bolt it up? Are in struction included

Pro Performance · 09-10-2013, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the_69_C10

So there is no welding on my part? Just trace the pattern and bolt it up? Are in struction included

No welding on your part. Trace, cut the frame, drill holes & bolt it in. No instructions are included, but I can help you if needed. It is very straight forward, and they fit on the frame only 1 way really.

the_69_C10 · 09-10-2013, 07:38 PM

Fitz- Thanks, will definitely consider that.
Pro Performance- That's awesome I think you just sold it to me.

67 chevelle · 09-10-2013, 07:46 PM

6-4 is pretty low , as all have suggested drop spindles are the way to go up front , and c notch in back with the springs and shocks 6 is too much IMO to do without a c notch , 5 yes 6 no

Pro Performance · 09-10-2013, 07:42 PM

Sounds good! and very glad I could help. Just give me a call when you are ready.

- Travis

09-10-2013, 05:49 PM	#1
the_69_C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tifton, Georgia Posts: 115	Lowering Questions I know it's been asked a thousand times but.... I'm going to lower my truck 4/6 hopefully! I'm not gonna do a C Notch because many people say I don't need it. And My Welding Sucks. So ECE has a 4/6 but with front spindles, Hotchkis has a 4/6 with just springs. Will the Hotchkis kit be just as good? I really don't want to swap spindles yet. Thanks in advance You guys mind checking out my thread? Not much there, I'm going to gt more pictures up soon! Sorry! __________________ 1969 C-10 SWB Project 2002 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab LS Build Thread--> "Start of Something New" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=557900

09-10-2013, 07:15 PM	#2
sduckworth13 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Kansas City, Missouri Posts: 3,541	Re: Lowering Questions Here, I'll change your mind on the C-notch. It's so easy a caveman can do it... so I bought one. The Porterbuilt C-notch is the way to go from my own experience installing the one piece c-notch. This setup takes the guess work out of the installer from wondering if the notch is lined up right under your rear axle and the two piece design allows the first plate that bolts on the frame to be used as a template which makes cutting the notch worry free. The second plate of has the notch and it just slides into place and bolts up. I have installed a C-notch before and it was a hack job to say the least, I had to weld up some sections where I cut to much material out of the frame. __________________ Scott

09-10-2013, 07:17 PM	#3
sduckworth13 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Kansas City, Missouri Posts: 3,541	Re: Lowering Questions Here is a link http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.com/?p=385 Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Scott

09-10-2013, 07:20 PM	#4
Pro Performance Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: AZ Posts: 3,069	Re: Lowering Questions I would lean towards the ECE, since it uses spindles. I my opinion, this is the better way to go, so that you are not using the spring to get the complete 4" of drop. As for the c-notch, it does add a little more clearance, depending on what you will be using the truck for and if you will be hauling things. Scott is right, the PB c-notch does make it simple, because you can use one of the pieces as a template. It is built extremely well and very heavy duty. I would suggest the PB notch if you do decide to add one. We have heard good things about the ECE kit.

09-10-2013, 07:26 PM	#5
the_69_C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tifton, Georgia Posts: 115	Re: Lowering Questions Does soindles make a difference then all 4" with springs? Thanks Guys. __________________ 1969 C-10 SWB Project 2002 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab LS Build Thread--> "Start of Something New" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=557900

09-10-2013, 07:29 PM	#7
the_69_C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tifton, Georgia Posts: 115	Re: Lowering Questions On the Porterbuilt kit, what comes welded together? __________________ 1969 C-10 SWB Project 2002 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab LS Build Thread--> "Start of Something New" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=557900

09-10-2013, 07:30 PM	#9
Pro Performance Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: AZ Posts: 3,069	Re: Lowering Questions The spindle will lower the truck 2" without effecting suspension geometry or ride quality. A 2" spring will effect it less (vs. a 4" spring), since the arms stay closer to the factory position. Of course, an alignment will bring it back to where it needs to be. In some cases. it can be difficult to align using a 4" spring, since the control arms are much farther up and away from the factory ride height position. I don't have personal experience aligning a truck with a 4" spring, but I have heard of people having issues. Maybe someone with 4" springs can shed some light on this.

09-10-2013, 07:34 PM	#10
the_69_C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tifton, Georgia Posts: 115	Re: Lowering Questions So there is no welding on my part? Just trace the pattern and bolt it up? Are in struction included __________________ 1969 C-10 SWB Project 2002 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab LS Build Thread--> "Start of Something New" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=557900

09-10-2013, 07:38 PM	#12
the_69_C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tifton, Georgia Posts: 115	Re: Lowering Questions Fitz- Thanks, will definitely consider that. Pro Performance- That's awesome I think you just sold it to me. __________________ 1969 C-10 SWB Project 2002 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab LS Build Thread--> "Start of Something New" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=557900

09-10-2013, 07:46 PM	#13
67 chevelle Registered User Join Date: May 2013 Location: WEST PALM FLORIDA Posts: 1,174	Re: Lowering Questions 6-4 is pretty low , as all have suggested drop spindles are the way to go up front , and c notch in back with the springs and shocks 6 is too much IMO to do without a c notch , 5 yes 6 no

09-10-2013, 07:42 PM	#14
Pro Performance Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: AZ Posts: 3,069	Re: Lowering Questions Sounds good! and very glad I could help. Just give me a call when you are ready. - Travis



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