Insulation and sound deadening

[Donaldo]

Hi, I am new here and a first post -

we have a 1951 Chevrolet 5 window 3100 pick up I am working on and trying to update to somewhat modern power and comforts. I find there are many places offering several different insulations, 50 mil to 80 mil - with as many pricing/shipping variations too -

I would appreciate any input from folks who have used their products.
thanks, Don

[parkwood]

i've just sprayed lizard skin in my hot rod both for heat and sound. I'm now putting hushmat over the top of that.. should be like a sound proof room when i'm done...

[Kid]

Originally Posted by parkwood

i've just sprayed lizard skin in my hot rod both for heat and sound. I'm now putting hushmat over the top of that.. should be like a sound proof room when i'm done...

I too used Lizard Skin (both products) along with some Damplifier pro matting. I'm sold on the results, been enjoying the comfort & quiet since 2007. Will never do another without Lizard Skin.

[buggy5872]

I used ez cool in Big Bertha. It was reasonably priced and works good. It keeps the floor cool with a 454 cranking at 3500 rpms under it. http://www.lobucrod.com/

[Daze57]

welcome to the forum from sin city - i went with hush mat seems to work pretty well

[skymangs]

Welcome to the board!

There are lots of options out there, but for the money I used Home Depot Peel and seal on the kids truck, and have been totally pleased. Total cost for the floor and firewall was like $50. I put carpet padding and carpet over it, even on a hot summer day the floor is cool to the touch.

[MidLifer]

Before you go down the sound deadening route, you owe it to yourself to read the excellent information at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com.

In short, the common "wisdom" that the aluminum-backed "mat" products deaden sound is somewhat incorrect. The purpose of those products is to dampen vibration and they do a fine job of it. However, you only need to cover 30-40% of the sheet metal to achieve the desired effect. Most guys waste a lot of money coating the entire inside of their cab with this stuff and don't get as good result as they could.

In order to quiet your cab, you need to reduce vibration/resonance *and* stop the transmission of noise from the engine/road, which is what the "mat" products do *not* do. You need to put down mat, then a layer of isolating foam, then, and this is the most important part, use mass-loaded vinyl to stop the sound transmission from outside. The aforementioned website does a fine job of explaining this better than I can.

I did the 3-layer technique on my 71 C10 with excellent results, and will do it on my 1950 when I get around to redoing the interior.

MLV is very heavy (2lb/sq ft) and therefore hard to ship. You can find it at building supply houses. I found mine locally on CL from a guy who had used it to build a recording studio and had enough left over to more than do my truck.

Good luck with your project!

[_Ogre]

welcome to this forum, you'll like it here. you can add pictures and lots of old chevy truck builds here.
i just answered you in the old-chevy-truck listserve, now i can add pictures

after doing a lot of research, i ended up using products from raamaudio.com/ his products seem to fit the bill for sound deadening with a decent price and had good reviews in the car audio forums and the sound deadener showdown link above. i used double layer of rammatt inside my cab, followed by a double layer of ensolite foam and then carpet on the floor. for the doors i have full size door panels, so i was able to use a sinlgle layer of rammatt and ensolite on my whole door. i also used lots of small pieces of rammatt to cover most of the outer skin of the doors. i only used a single layer of ensolite foam under the headliner. the rammatt is self adhesive butyl, ensolite needed to be glued down. i see he offers self adhesive ensolite now. i also had the bottom of my cab and the back inside the cab sprayed with rhino liner bed liner.

my truck has been on the road 3 yrs and 20,000 miles with no failures or delaminations. it does keep the sound down, but nothing will eliminate road or engine noise, that's what the volume control on the stereo is for. i still get a lot of wind noise from my doors at 80 mph.

i'd be leery of anything off of ebay. a lot of those guys buy the peel n stick roofing membrane from home depot. some say it works, some say it falls off after a year or two. some say it smells like tar, some say it's not that bad. being the first layer of your interior, i'd rather not have it fail or smell.





i cut pieces, peal the backing part way off, stick the front edge, work it in with the roller



you can see the ensolite foam under the seat area, carpet up front





doors

[Atomsplitter]

Just use "Peel and Seal".
It's alot cheaper and does a great job.

[mr48chev]

I'm thinking along the lines that Parkwood said he did in post 2 and that is use Lizard skin and then use a sound deadening mat material. And there might be a layer of peal and seal in the mix.
I've had my truck since 1973 and we have suffered through heat and noise on a number of long cross country trips of thousands of miles and don't plan on suffering on the next several thousand miles. It was part of the deal when my wife and I were in our 20's and 30's but now that we are in our mid 60's the comfort of AC with windows that actually roll up and insulation that keeps the heat and noise out sounds pretty good to us.

Sound wise I'd search out what the big sound contest guys are using to keep the sound contained. Heat wise I think the guys here have pretty well nailed it from what I have found in my searching.

[Donaldo]

I've read posts stating how satisfied folks are with the 'lizard skin' ceramic products as a base coat/ssealer and then covered with a foil backed insulating material. I came across an old thread, from 2006 or so, about insulating mixing micro ballons and latex paint, and an undercoating gun...

So I am wondering is anyone here has made up their own formulation and how has it worked ?

thanks, Don

[magicoolbus]

Micro balloons and elastomeric roof compound.

[Donaldo]

[QUOTE=magicoolbus;6301134]Micro balloons and elastomeric roof compound


Yep, I was also thinking along those lines. as an almost retired Ca painting contractor, I do have some in the can pile....or perhaps some saved 100% acrylic semigloss....... thanks

[magicoolbus]

Here is a link to bulk micro balloons or (glass bubbles).

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...clickkey=10403

And one for a gallon size of the roof coating. Cheaper in 5 gallon sizes, but that is a ton of material. The roof coating can be tinted by the paint department, something you can't get with lizard skin.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_139937-29-55...oof&facetInfo=

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

after doing a lot of research, i ended up using products from raamaudio.com/ his products seem to fit the bill for sound deadening with a decent price and had good reviews in the car audio forums and the sound deadener showdown link above.

Hi Ogre - Old thread I know, but how well has this treatment worked out keeping engine and exhaust heat out of the cab?

[fisherman420]

I just received my purchase of some Noico 80 mil. https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadeni...deadener&psc=1I work with a fellow who has installed sound deadening material in the car audio world for many years primarily using dynamat. He was thoroughly impressed with this stuff just by handling the product and for a fraction the cost compared to the "brand name" stuff I'm happy already with my purchase. I will post again once installed for further input.

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by Donaldo

Hi, I am new here and a first post -

we have a 1951 Chevrolet 5 window 3100 pick up I am working on and trying to update to somewhat modern power and comforts. I find there are many places offering several different insulations, 50 mil to 80 mil - with as many pricing/shipping variations too -

I would appreciate any input from folks who have used their products.
thanks, Don

I used CARINSULATION on my 56 truck. easy to put down, works very well and is very durable. oh yeah, great people to talk with as well, very helpful.

[nebdrummer]

I'm not totally sold on the lizard skin. It's picky on what it sticks to. I primed all bare metal spots and scuffed EVERYTHING prior to spraying. I sprayed it in the cab and underneath the cab. I wasn't too happy with how loud it still was, so I covered all that yet with dynamat extreme. That made a huge difference and it doesn't get hot inside. Once I get the whole inside upholstered, I'm sure it will be even more quiet. I'll be doing dynamat only from now on.

[rgunlock]

Good information nebrunner. This thread has a good title and shows up in google search. Maybe we can get more of these type "how did it do?" type of reviews and add a lot of value to this thread.

[nebdrummer]

I've used dynamat on a lot of previous cars and never fails, but I wanted to try something different on mine. Can't say I regret it, but not for me. Lizzard is a little cheaper though.