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09-24-2013, 08:49 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chesapeake, Va
Posts: 1,275
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Spid
how do you salvage the SPID when doing a new paint job inside the cab??
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Mike 72 C-10 Cheyenne off frame resto and Upgraded to 4 wheel disk, Tilt, Dakota Digital Dash / Rear slider. 421 SBC / TH350 3000RPM Stall Progression Ignition /Holley 750 DP/3:73 gear Eaton Limited Slip unit / 2 1/2 exhaust glasspacks |
09-24-2013, 09:00 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sask Canada
Posts: 1,666
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Re: Spid
Chipflyer can help you.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/m...intheshop.com/
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Trueman |
09-24-2013, 09:01 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mustang, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,806
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Re: Spid
Order one from: http://outintheshop.com/ he is a member here too. Chipflyer I think.
Or buy a blank spid from other resto companies and try to type or print it yourself. Posted via Mobile Device
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Dan <---(my name) 67 SWB C10 project "GEORGIA"-59 Brookwood 2dr wag...Next project-03 Tahoe 4x4 5.3 family ride-07 Hondur Accord, commuter car |
09-24-2013, 10:23 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
Posts: 17,975
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Re: Spid
Assume you're doing your 72? If you're doing a full-on resto, I'd do just like mentioned above, chipflyer is the man! If you're just doing a repaint on a driver (and if you're doing the whole inside of the cab, then sounds like this is not the case), then masking is probably preferable on a 72. 72 has the clear spid label cover. I'd VERY carefully mask it off with a razor and blue or green painter's tape. Again, if resto, use chipflyer. Only reason I say this is that if I were going to buy your truck, I'd prefer the original spid be in it. If it were a full bore resto, I'd understand the replacement SPID.
Whatever you decide, make sure to take good historical pictures of the SPID so you can prove you didn't alter the RPOs listed to a potential buyer in the future. |
09-24-2013, 11:13 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brookings, SD
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Re: Spid
If you are worried about originality I would buy another glove box and a SPID from chipflyer. Put the new door and SPID on the truck for paint, and keep the original door as proof of what you started with.
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Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. |
09-24-2013, 11:36 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Topeka, Ks
Posts: 2,293
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Re: Spid
Salvaging is pretty tough if your changing color in my opinion. I would replace it. An exact copy of your original can be made. If you've added original factory options CORRECTLY, go ahead and add them on a new label, nothing wrong or dishonest about that. These trucks aren't original numbers matching vettes or camaros and there is no way to prove how a truck was originally optioned without a build sheet, which is pretty uncommon to find. Here is an example of a masked off label, which could be an option but is pretty cheesey to me but it can be done.
Jeff
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I'm not a pessimist, I'm just optimistic that bad things are going to happen. 1971 Cheyenne Super K10 - tilt, cruise, air, am/fm, tow hooks, factory buckets! 1986 Jeep J10 pickup, - 5.3L Vortec with 4L60e and NP241. |
09-25-2013, 12:22 AM | #7 | ||
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
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Re: Spid
Quote:
Quote:
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09-25-2013, 02:16 AM | #8 |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
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Re: Spid
I did a color change in the interior.
You've already been given great suggestions. I'd stick with keeping the original on the glove box door, taking it off to stash it, and making an exact copy. You can take a pic of the SPID and size it properly, make a copy on decal material from Office Max, or any place that sells decal printer material. Then, just put that on the new glove box door. I kept my old one for the next owner. My truck is so changed out (a 68 cab, 71 front clip, frame, bed, etc.) that the SPID I made is really a joke. No BS'ing around with what I wrote.....Just a laugh. I took a pic of the original and worked it from there. But the original SPID is appropriately important to some folks. That's why I saved it. I decided to go with the "aged look"" of the original on the funny one. But I still wanted it to look good. So I P-Shopped an augmented one for the door. Here are a few shots of most of the orig while I was working with it, the joke SPID, and a long-shot of the way the new one (decal) looks inside the g-box.
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
09-24-2013, 11:44 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: kearney,nebraska
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Re: Spid
I jus used another glove box door and kept my original
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'70 k-10 longbox- mid 70's drivetrain 350/350 487x heads 10.1:1 flowmasters ,35's 3.73's auburn posi ,rear shackle flip. '72 short stepside U.S. forestry truck, '73 455 buick,400 turbo,dropped 2"-4 1/4" ,3.07 posi,:'89 silverado 1500 ,OK truck ,5.7 holley tbi ,trick 700r4 3.07 auburn posi ,and my '66 skylark ,'73 centurion and my '84 monte carlo imca stock car |
09-25-2013, 08:14 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chesapeake, Va
Posts: 1,275
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Re: Spid
I agree with all of them but since i have upgraded to tilt, rear slider, power brakes, heavy duty radiator, heavy duty front springs. I would rather get a new one and do the add ons,
thanks for the post guys , when i get ready for the paint, i will contact chip flyer
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Mike 72 C-10 Cheyenne off frame resto and Upgraded to 4 wheel disk, Tilt, Dakota Digital Dash / Rear slider. 421 SBC / TH350 3000RPM Stall Progression Ignition /Holley 750 DP/3:73 gear Eaton Limited Slip unit / 2 1/2 exhaust glasspacks |
09-25-2013, 10:35 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Northport, Alabama
Posts: 1,353
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Re: Spid
. . . .
Chipflyer did an EXCELLENT job on the SPID for my 70 C-10. He worked with me through SEVERAL emails to get it just how I wanted it. I bought a different glove box too and kept my original. . . . . |
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