Lowering and still being about to tow

[fastpace]

So a couple weeks ago I purchased a 72 C10 LWB Highlander. I'd like to lower the truck, but I also don't want to lose the ability to tow. At a minimum I'd like to be able to pull a 4k lbs car on an open trailer still without issues, but ideally I'd like to pull the car in a 24ft enclosed trailer. I know towing is a common issue, but from searching I wasn't able to find any definite answers.

One of the main requirements is I don't want to have to raise the bed and I'd like to have a ride height close to a 4/6 drop or lower. I also need to replace all the bushings on the truck, so I'd like to just replace everything once.

Here's the 2 options I think I have and some questions about them. I'm open to suggestions

Air Ride - Something I've always wanted to do.
Heavy duty bags to handle the towing weight - suggestions?
Porterbuilt A-arms
Porterbuilt Stage 2 rear setup with bolt in c notch welded and probably will box it in on the other side for strangth
Accuair e-level to keep it nice and level when towing

Static Drop
4/6 drop with 2" drop spindles up front
Tubular control arms - suggestions?
Helper bags in the rear when towing

Which path would be the best option? The truck will be daily driven.

[tinydb84]

I think your best bet would be to call Porterbuilt.

I don't see anything wrong with the static drop except if you were to run C notch.

[ulakovic22]

You will need a c-notch to go 4/6, so your best option with either setup would be to figure out how to put strength back into the frame. Besides that what works best is up to you. Personally if the main purpose was to tow with a mild drop I would go static with a helper bag setup on the rear using air management (single compressor, small tank, sensors).

[knomadd]

Be very careful if you intend on towing a 4000+ lb car and trailer with a c-notch. I am planning the same thing (towing capacity and lowering) and all of the searching I've done suggest that if you want to tow, you either leave the frame alone, or do a full notch, not a c-notch. The c-notch reduces the thickness of the frame by (typically) about half so the strength is reduced, even when boxed. I'm no expert so someone might tell you you can tow all day long with a c-notch, but I wouldn't do it. Just something to think about.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

There is a C notch where they add box tubing to the top of the frame in a hybrid approach I guess you say, and it fits under the bed with out cutting. It gives thickness back to the structure, and helps flex in all likely hood.

I have seen plenty of people tow with C-notches, but I would weld mine in for safety. Most if them have been duallies with a 5/7 drop, and towing near max when they do tow.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

There is a C notch where they add box tubing to the top of the frame in a hybrid approach I guess you say, and it fits under the bed with out cutting. It gives thickness back to the structure, and helps flex in all likely hood.

I have seen plenty of people tow with C-notches, but I would weld mine in for safety. Most if them have been duallies with a 5/7 drop, and towing near max when they do tow.

You cant add to the height of the 6x-87 frames w/o cutting the bed floor. A guy can tow w/a c-notched truck but it isn't optimal.

I was surprised when we did the c-notch frame strength analysis thread a while back. I re-did the notch for my 64's chassis & skipped the c-notches for my dually & went straight to step notches to maintain (or exceed) full OE strength.

[Snailed]

I can add about 2" to the top of my frame on my '66 before having to modify the bed floor.

[theastronaut]

This thread has good info on frame strength with different styles of notches.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457037