pinion yoke removal/crush washer debate

[bigmac73]

okay guys, after reading another thread the other day, we all have different opinions on removing the pinion yoke and how it will affect the crush washer.

the reason I am starting this thread, is I want to upgrade my pinion yoke to a 1350 series joint along with the rest of my drive shaft, so i need to know if this is going to grow into a bigger project than I had planned


Lets get it on....

[70STOVEBOLT]

The crush sleeve sets the preload on the pinion bearings. You SHOULD replace it each time you remove the yoke, but I know a lot of people don't. If it is easily accessible, I would say replace it, they are not expensive. Also, the nut should be replaced, as it is a locking nut and is designed for one-time use. If you reuse the nut, I strongly suggest using blue thread locker on it.

[bigmac73]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

The crush sleeve sets the preload on the pinion bearings. You SHOULD replace it each time you remove the yoke, but I know a lot of people don't. If it is easily accessible, I would say replace it, they are not expensive. Also, the nut should be replaced, as it is a locking nut and is designed for one-time use. If you reuse the nut, I strongly suggest using blue thread locker on it.

if i torque the new nut back to specs then the preload should be the same, as the crush has already been established??

[Lees68GMC]

LOOK just for frame of reference here, the Gear Motive master kits from Summit for our trucks with everything you need including new bearings, shims, bolts, marking compound & brush, gasket, crush sleeve, seal and nut runs $75.00.

Risk major differential damage just to try and save $75.00? You get what you deserve.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by bigmac73

if i torque the new nut back to specs then the preload should be the same, as the crush has already been established??

Theoretically, yes.

[marvgarr68]

I have done it lots of times and have never had a rear end go out. What you do is get a center punch mark the yoke/nut/pinion shaft in line remove change seal and reinstall yoke inline with mark. Tighten nut to the mark and you are done. If you want to change yoke get an inch pound torque wrench turn yoke nut measure torque to turn pinion shaft all the way around. Replace yoke and seal install nut tighten check turn torque on pinion tighten tell the torque isthe same. It's all in the service manual also. It was good enough for GM so I see no problem.

[geezer#99]

Well said Stovebolt!!
If you're gonna do it, do it right!!
I've seen people who think they can just bolt it back togethor only to get a big buck suprise a couple months down the road.
A new sleeve and nut is chump change compared to a 1000 bucks for a new rearend.

[Dunenutt]

I have done it many times to replace pinion seals. Just don't hit it with an impact wrench, or crank it down. It takes a lot of torque to crush that sleeve, so it should not move. I agree with locktighting the nut. Re-setting the preload on a differential with a lot of miles is not a good idea.

[Bigdav160]

Do you think Chevrolet would know the answer? Do you think their engineers are smarter than most on this forum?

Look it up in the service manual. There is the answer.

BTW, removing and reinstalling the yoke will not change the preload if done properly.