1950-ish Chevy 3100 Build

[jrdamien]

Have you ever had the distinct feeling you've bitten off more than you can chew?

Today was spent picking up the frame. I got it from fellow site member semn49. A really good guy who gave me a hell of a deal on a rolling '49 chassis that's in remarkable shape.

The truck I was going to use to tow the frame fell through, and then the trailer I was going to borrow become unavailable, but today had to be the day, so...



Does this violate the *-Haul contract?
FIY, *-Haul trucks are only as long as they're advertised along the top. I almost drove off with a truck several feet too short for the frame.

Got it to the garage and gave it a good look over. I already knew it was a in great shape. Someone, somewhere along the line, cleaned and painted it already. No way it's this good after 60 years:



There's not even enough rust to scrape!

Here's the only bummer. The rear engine crossmember is bent in and will have to be beat out:



Tomorrow I'm going to tear it down and clean it up...after I return the pneumatic scraper and greaser I bought because I just won't need it. I'll use that money to buy the rusty metal primer and paint!

Funny story: I asked the kid at HB where the pneumatic tools were and he looked at me dead eyed and said "The what?"

[semn49]

Glad to see it didn't come out the back door!

I'll for sure be watching this one.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

Glad to see it didn't come out the back door!

I'll for sure be watching this one.

Thanks again Bill, both for the frame and for getting it into the truck!

[jrdamien]

Anyone care to weigh in on the chassis color?

Black or red?

[semn49]

Red kind of peaks my interest, but I'd still probably go with black. It goes with anything.

[Root2812]

I'm glad to see you found a frame. Do you already have the body? I was reading the other threads you had going on but may have gotten confused. Is this the frame with the Heidts cross member in it already or a different one?

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by Root2812

I'm glad to see you found a frame. Do you already have the body? I was reading the other threads you had going on but may have gotten confused. Is this the frame with the Heidts cross member in it already or a different one?

No, the Heidts frame was one of two I was going to get but seller of Heidts frame decided he'd only sell it with the worthless body so I passed.

Now it's just this frame and the body. Going for a very budget, very original build (with a few exceptions).

So yes I do have a body though I need some fenders eventually because the ones I have have some rust holes.

[mr48chev]

Not a bad looking frame.

What is the rust problem in your front fenders? you might find a fender that is banged up in a different spot that you can cut a patch out of or I have some scrap fenders of a big truck that are banged up around the headlights but may have the part you need that can be cut out. That would only take the price of what it costs to mail the sections. They aren't any good to put on a truck but have a lot of patches left in them.

[jrdamien]

So I tore it down today. Could some of you help me out with a few questions?

A: Leaf spring perches. I had to grind the rivets (or whatever they are) on the shackles/perches to get the front and rear leaf springs off. The perches are in great condition but what sort of bolts or connectors do I use to reconnect them to the frame?

B: Transmission support. I took out the stock crossmember because it's not going to work with the T5 setup I'm going to use. Do I need to add some reinforcement in place of that member?

C: Clutch/brake pedal mount. For those of you who have upgraded to power brakes do you use the stock mount and pedal assembly?

[semn49]

C: Clutch/brake pedal mount. For those of you who have upgraded to power brakes do you use the stock mount and pedal assembly?[/QUOTE]

If you want to leave the brake pedal in the stock position under the floor there is a bracket you can order that lets you bolt a dual master into that position. I actually have one that I copied off of a aftermarket one I bought.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

C: Clutch/brake pedal mount. For those of you who have upgraded to power brakes do you use the stock mount and pedal assembly?

If you want to leave the brake pedal in the stock position under the floor there is a bracket you can order that lets you bolt a dual master into that position. I actually have one that I copied off of a aftermarket one I bought.[/QUOTE]

Bill did you fab an extra one of those brackets?

[jrdamien]

Took about 8 hours to tear it down and clean half of it up.



I have my first real sense of just how long this might take to do...and it's a little daunting.

Here's hoping I can meet my deadline and goal, both time and money wise.

[semn49]

Originally Posted by jrdamien

If you want to leave the brake pedal in the stock position under the floor there is a bracket you can order that lets you bolt a dual master into that position. I actually have one that I copied off of a aftermarket one I bought.

Bill did you fab an extra one of those brackets? [/QUOTE]

It's somewhat like this?
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=DMC5959

I'll see if I can find it.

[mechanixman]

This seems like a great start I'd like to see where this is heading.
A. I'm afraid I can't help here too much. You can pick up some grade 11 hardware at fastenal, I'd use that.

B. not if you're fabbing a rear cross member for the T-5. But just to be safe, I'd say go for it. I've heard other guys say that without that reinforcement, the frame buckles in on itself.

C. yeah. the only downside to using the original mount and pedal assembly is that you need to cut a hole in the floor to access the new MC.

[mechanixman]

Not necessary.
But it's probably a good idea to keep the large diameter steering wheel.
That's what I'm doing.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Not necessary.
But it's probably a good idea to keep the large diameter steering wheel.
That's what I'm doing.

The idea for power steering was to shorten the column and move the wheel into a slightly less death prone position. Lil' more room in the cab and a little extra safety.

[mechanixman]

Ah
I see what you're saying.
But what I'm working on, is a steering box off a 82 c10, and and an aftermarket collapsible column.
Thus the less chance of the steering column shooting through the dash.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Ah
I see what you're saying.
But what I'm working on, is a steering box off a 82 c10, and and an aftermarket collapsible column.
Thus the less chance of the steering column shooting through the dash.

Manual box? Which after market column (Ididit)?

[mechanixman]

Ebay version of it, but yeah

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Ebay version of it, but yeah

Link? I like cheap parts! Is it a 28", 30" or 32"?

[mechanixman]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-30-Ti...b8e0ff&vxp=mtr

Here is the one I'm looking at.
Based on the photo, I'm planning on doing the intermediate shaft, so 28 is probably best, but really it's up to you.
If you do decide to use a manual steering box of a c10 or c20, the gear box's mounting points are parallel with the input shaft, so the best option (without making a new mount) would be the picture to the right.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-30-Ti...b8e0ff&vxp=mtr

Here is the one I'm looking at.
Based on the photo, I'm planning on doing the intermediate shaft, so 28 is probably best, but really it's up to you.
If you do decide to use a manual steering box of a c10 or c20, the gear box's mounting points are parallel with the input shaft, so the best option (without making a new mount) would be the picture to the right.

Oh, that's a good column at a great price.

So what shaft are you using?

[jrdamien]

As I continue to get everything in order (finishing frame tomorrow, hopefully) I am thinking about the under bed gas tank. I'm going to keep the spare on the outside of the bed. But how could I reinforce the rear some to help in the case of a possible rear ending?

My thought is to move the spare tire cross member to the very rear of the chassis, flipped on its side open end out. But what about welding in a thick plate and putting some bumper styro in between that and the tank? Ideas?

[mechanixman]

I plan on making my own linkage. (Today I tried to find a set up that was ready to go, no such luck.) Really all it is, is a smaller shaft in a tube (for the sliding part) and some sort of key way. (for the turning part. ) All between 2 knuckles.

Here's a picture of one I found. Hope it helps.

As for the rear, some heavier gauge box tubing (compared to the spare tire rack) welded between the two frame rails, then a set of gussets added to the frame should make it strong enough. I like that idea of styrofoam.

[mechanixman]

Well i came up with a quick model.
Dark Grey are the frame rails
Brown/light grey is the new piece/tire bracket
Red are the gussets
Polished look is the tank
and the pink would be the styrofoam

In the second picture I took out the foam to show gussets both top and bottom.

Whadya think?