K10 k1500 help and advise

[adricar1]

i have just picked up my 1971 k 1500, from the docks today in the uk. but it looks like i have a few things to sort out before i can get it on the road.
if someone could advise me on what s the best way to sort or tackle these items it would be most helpful

1) the transmission boc NP205 date stamp 1970 has got stuck in high gear and i can not get it out of high. when drving it it makes a banging noise? how do i get it the lever to go to neutral etc and what could be causing the banging? if i need some parts wheres the best place to order them from?

2) the heater core has been piped out very badly though.can you get to the heater from within the cab?

3) the wiper mechanism only works on the passenger side the arm in the scuttle has come unattached on the driver's side. how do you get this out?

4)how do you get the wiper arms off , they seem stck on the spline? on the uk cars there is a cover which lifts up and a nut underneath.

5) the rear axle is not a dana 44 , and has 12 bolts on a cover which is not round any idea what the axle could be. i need to order a new gasket.

6) the front hubs have a hand turn on them on the centre but there is a resistance to turning , how should they operate, should these be easy or stiff?

7) the headlights are 4 round head lights what do the centre two do? i can not get these to light?

Many thanks
adrian

[JointTech]

2. Heater core needs to be unbolted from the outside of the truck. theres a couple good threads on the forum on it. its not bad on a non AC truck. AC truck is kind of a pain.

4. Theres a little tang sticking out. Push it towards the shaft and pull the wiper arm straight up. I used a claw hammer to pry up the arm while using a little screw driver to hold back the tang.

[mrein3]

For number 1, you got a lot of heavy, mechanical forces working against you. If my 205 lever is stuck I like to get on a level spot and try it in park on the transmission. If that doesn't work, back up a few feet in reverse, put it in park again, and try the lever again. Same for number 6. Back up a touch if they're stuck. I usually put the transfer case in "2" before I try the hubs.

For number 4, if you can wait and they ship there, I'd get myself one if these:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all
Claw hammers and screw drivers are hell on paint.
I don't work for snap on but I wish I would have found this tool 20 years ago.

For 7, two lights are low beams, the other two are high beams. With the lights on, step on the dimmer switch (button on floor by your left foot). If they don't swap from low to high, clean the corrosion on the connection for the dimmer switch. That is a good spot to find a corroded connection.

[GASoline71]

You don't need a gasket for the rear diff seal. Pull the pan off and clean the mating surfaces and use a 1/4" bead of black RTV around the pan. Bolt it back on without the gasket. Been sealing diffs this way for about 30 years. No leaky.

Gary

[adricar1]

Progress today

the no 1 is sorted , reversed the truck and it came unstuck.
wipers i have a good idea on these and will sort these out tomorrow/so no 3 4 5 and 6 sorted

i have fitted a new power steering pump today, i foumd a bottle of trans fluid by the front light, the previous owner must have kept topping it up

also sorted out a major header leak, and replaced the missing bolts.


not so good the front of the inner wheel arch has rotted away, this did not show up on the photos , so when i get the heater out its repair the wheel arch.