IT HAS BEGUN!!!! kinda......

[mattcrp1]

Just a couple of pics of my 76 swb. I scored on a set of Trailblazer SS manifolds this weekend for $25 with down pipes. I also stuffed the eng/trans in the truck. I am using Dirtydingo slider mounts. They are the newer non welded style and I am planning on using the factory 4.8l a/c compressor in its factory location.

I decided to stuff the engine in before I did thew front suspension so I could have some weight on the springs. I had the firewall cleaned and cleared, but damaged it when I set the motor in.

[mattcrp1]

Dont mind the sledge hammer, thats my Ford tool.

[VroomVroom68]

Originally Posted by mattcrp1

Dont mind the sledge hammer, thats my Ford tool.

I have a grenade if you need it!

[truckdude239]

i dont know how different the 76 is but with the dirty dingo slider mounts ui bought they where non weld i couldn't get my compressor bracket to clear the sliders

[mattcrp1]

I actually had to un-mount the adapter from the block and as the engine came closer to the mount slip it in. It was tight going in with whole eng/trans assembly.

[solidaxel]

Well I guess I listened to DD salesman as he told me (before the swap) that I would have to replace the compressor as it would not fit my 78!!
So I have his upper bracket and slider motor mounts.

I do like the fact that the linkage is in the same location, and the drive shaft is in the exact location as the TH350, by looking at the seal marks on the yoke !!!

I am now looking at rebuilding the A arms while the dog house is off, what brand of bushings did you use, or were they rubber?

[mattcrp1]

I did have to set the whole thing as far foward as possible to get the compressor to fit. and the intake is a few inches from the firewall. Ill try and post pics of the spacing.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by mattcrp1

I did have to set the whole thing as far foward as possible to get the compressor to fit. and the intake is a few inches from the firewall. Ill try and post pics of the spacing.

Yes I did have to move the rear crossmember to the rear about 2 inches and re drill a few holes, and there is still clearance from the firewall

[mattcrp1]

OK so here are a few pics of the firewall and the a/c compressor clearance with the Dirty Dingo mounts. It is a little close on the electrical connector on the a/c compressor. I am not opposed to relocating the a/c compressor to an up position, but if I can keep it low I would prefer it.

On the other hand if I relocate the compressor, I can move the engine back and close the gap on the firewall. Any thoughts anyone?.....

I am modifying the transmission crossmember now to accept the single stud type transmount.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Yes I did have to move the rear crossmember to the rear about 2 inches and re drill a few holes, and there is still clearance from the firewall

I did a final and the crossmember is 3 inches to the rear and I changed the rear mount to a 2 bolt from the stud mount on the 4L60E.

I wonder how far to the rear the engine and transmission is now from the 350/350, did this combo change the weight bias front to rear?

[mattcrp1]

My crossmember is about 2-3inches back. I ended up removing my a/c from the stock position so i could go back further. I am eying a drive shaft from a 2004 2wd tahoe that measures 55 inches from center to center on u joint caps and the yoke sticks out 2.5" from extension housing. It will need to shortened about 2".

[First c10]

Hello, Is this issue with the a/c the reason some people move the pedestals back to the inline 6 spot and use the forward moving mount plates? I hope you understand what i am trying to ask???

[mattcrp1]

I believe so, I hadn't heard of moving the pedistals back for the inline 6 postion. that might work too. I know some people have used this mount set up had success with it. Anyone else know?

[mattcrp1]

So I ended up having to remove the a/c and bracket as well as move the eng/trans back to gain room for the drag link and loom for the starter. It does seem a little better with the whole thing moved back. The bottom pic shows the problem and the upper shows the clearance I now have. I removed the a/c wiring and moved the loom up and secured it out of the way.

On another note, the front end is back together and down on the ground. 3 inch drop spindles and one coil cut. I threw on a fender to get a picture of what it is going to look like. I should have a pic up soon. I also got my 87 fuel injected tank as well. More to come.

[mattcrp1]

I got my 87 tank and modified a fuel level sender for an 87 to take a fuel pump from a late model fuel pump recall. Hopefully get my fuel system done this weekend. I am going with the Dorman nylon fuel line.

[mattcrp1]

Got my bargin deal trailblazer ss manifold on as well. It fits like it was made for this swap.

[mattcrp1]

Also I got my fender jambed and installed with the inner fender panel. I used a custom mixed paint aerosol can from my local Napa auto parts with a paint store in it. Cataline Blue metalic laid out nicely.

[mattcrp1]

This is the doorman tool pressing the compression fitting onto the line.

[mattcrp1]

Got the tank straps on with some roofing paper and installed the fuel lines.

[mattcrp1]

Got the engine side of the fuel line ran and secured. This part takes the longest trying not to kink the nylon is the tricky part.

[dman1982]

Originally Posted by mattcrp1

Got the tank straps on with some roofing paper and installed the fuel lines.

are those compression fittings on the sending unit?

[solidaxel]

Good idea running the nylon line in a rubber hose.

[mattcrp1]

Yes they are. If you look at the expensive Russell AN fittings they are also compression fittings.

[mattcrp1]

I also added the clamp to be extra sure.

[dman1982]

I might try those man...seal good? No leaks?