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Old 12-12-2013, 12:46 PM   #1
Cheeseman
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stock wiring and stand alone operation

Ok gang, probably a very remedial question for many of you, but I am second guessing myself and some info I have been given (away from here). I have my LS1/4l60e installed and sent the harness and computer off for programming and harness thinning. I have everything back and installed. When I was begining to work on my factory underhood wiring harness installation, I wanted to thin out what will not be needed now that the motor is a stand alone unit. The new motor/computer will take care of the alternator, so is there a reason that I need the factory 1967 voltage regulator or its associated wires? I can see where all my headlight/marker lamp wires are routed and needed, but I did not know if I could thin out the 1967 alternator and voltage reg wires? There is the main red 12V 12 or 14 gauge wire that runs through that harness, am I overlooking its needed use in this facet? Does it feed power into the cab for powering up something needed in there? I was told by a source (that I do not have a lot of faith in) that I could just ditch all that stuff....I am thinking that I may need to keep that red 12V wire.....it is the wire that goes to the passenger fender to the junction block.


I have the pigtail to the starter figured out as well and think I am good there.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Cheese "wired and tired" Man
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:24 PM   #2
68GMCCustom
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Re: stock wiring and stand alone operation

I didn't use any of the trucks alt wiring, for one I used new Autometer gauges and replaced the Amp gauge with a Volt gauge. Also, the new alt is like 140amp vs 60-65amp or so originally? My custom stand alone harness had an alt connector...so its plugged into the ecm.
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'68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy
'72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close
'06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD
'18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver
'95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto...

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Old 12-12-2013, 01:28 PM   #3
Cheeseman
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Re: stock wiring and stand alone operation

That is how my new harness is as well, it was a "plug and play" unit with the ecm. I dont see a need to keep the voltage regulator now or the wires going to it. I am just not sure what would be feeding power into the cab if I got rid of that 12V wire from that factory harness?
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:36 PM   #4
68GMCCustom
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Re: stock wiring and stand alone operation

As I recall there are other feeds to the cab. I wound up wiring in a 7 circuit Painless Circuit Boss...all new power requirements are coming from it so that I am not putting too much load on the original wiring. Someday when I paint it I'll replace it all with an all new 12-18 circuit harness.
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Kurt -

'68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy
'72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close
'06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD
'18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver
'95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto...

my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken
A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:53 PM   #5
ls1nova71
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Re: stock wiring and stand alone operation

If you open the factory 67 harness you will find out that that 12v wire you're talking about splits off and runs to the voltage regulator and the cab, Just remove the regulator part. You still need the part that powers up the cab.
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