smooth firewalls?

[killerpanel]

Show me what you did? I am not worried about the heater. don't plan on keeping it. I am toying with the idea of Moving the engine back a couple inches, and building a new firewall.or maybe just sectioning mine back and getting rid if the cowl seem. I have seen a couple different ideas for the brake master cylinder. just looking for ideas.

[SCHRUMGMC]

One thing I can't seem to understand if you shave it, where does all of the Wires etc go??, whats the point in doing it, to make it custom??

[marvgarr68]

The object is to have a clean firewall. I did mine, shaved heater and all the little holes for the inside insulation and little screw holes. I did not shave the fuse box or the grommet holes (speedo,oil line,washer,and rear lights).

[screaminchevypickup]

..

[killerpanel]

Well, the dash is gutted. I am cutting out a majority of the existing firewall. Saving the tunnel for the distributer, but am thinking I will be just putting a clean new piece of sheet metal over most of it. Wires will be hidden and rerun in another location.somehow, I also want to move the firewall back 3-4 inches. I want to set the engine back.

[ItsRandy]

Originally Posted by killerpanel

Well, the dash is gutted. I am cutting out a majority of the existing firewall. Saving the tunnel for the distributer, but am thinking I will be just putting a clean new piece of sheet metal over most of it. Wires will be hidden and rerun in another location.somehow, I also want to move the firewall back 3-4 inches. I want to set the engine back.

If you move the whole firewall back 4 inches won't that change the location of the pedals closer to the driver's seat and make the limited leg room even more limited? Couldn't you make the "dog house" deeper to set the motor back into, saving your leg room? I read some where, if you modify your firewall, NHRA rules require a roll bar even if you aren't going very fast (12's).

[cool68]

engine set back? going racing?

[Sean1985]

I was always curious what people did with the wiring. Where do you put the block that goes on the firewall. Not trying to jack your thread hopefully this might help you too.

[Mrmadmanmill]

[BurlyCrew]

And move the heater blower motor inside cab?

[aboesec10]

heater box/blower motor area had some rust. cut it all out and put in new sheetmetal. Planning on a vintage air unit behind the dash this spring/summer.

[killerpanel]

Well, I plan on surprising a few people when it hits the streets! I really want a totally smooth firewall. I am cutting out the entire firewall, and am planning on putting in just a flat sheet. and sectioning in the area for the distributer. I want to relocate the brakes also, either a street rod style, down under, or I was thinking of one of the reversed mounts they use on modified race cars. The only thing I want going through the firewall is the steering column.


The wiring will most likely be a Painless wiring kit, but what I have done before. is run the wire, through a grommet in the drivers kick panel just above the e-brake set up and run it under the fender lip to the rad support. The only wiring I need for the engine will be the alternator, which will come off the rad support, and the starter and distributer, which can get run up the trans tunnel.

that's the plan anyways. I am taking pics as I go with the firewall, and will post up as I make progress.

[oldschool18]

Most people don't shave the entire firewall just the stuff the not using, I haven't seen to many people shave the wiring. If you are bagging your truck and going with custom inner fenders a lot of the time you got to remove the heater core box and the blower cause the tires hit it. I had that problem in my 85 so I eliminated the heater box and mounted my battery there.

[killerpanel]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-5181/10002/-1
This is the pedal assembly he used in the Nova. 2 Rebco master cylinders.

[killerpanel]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And move the heater blower motor inside cab?

heater? nope. a removable 12 volt heater, hooked to the defroster ducts. Which comes out when racing. Getting this truck as light as possible is a major concern.

[killerpanel]

Couldn't you make the "dog house" deeper to set the motor back into, saving your leg room?

no, I am running a tall deck, big block, with a tunnel ran. The dog house is too small just to do that.

[dunyet]

here's what I did/doing..

[killerpanel]

Dunyet, I checked out your build page, nice work. What you did with the firewall is similar to what I want to do. What do you plan on doing for brakes?

[Fitz]

The PO chopped it up badly when he installed a 71 AC /Heater unit into my 67 so repaired his hacking then plumbed in a vintage air unit.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

There are some folks on this Forum that are incredibly talented.
I'm not. Just stubborn.

Here are a few things to consider while you are addressing the firewall and engine compartment that I missed:

I WISH I had done more to clean up the whole engine compartment while the front clip was off. Especially, the fire wall. I have changes planned.
And a few parts gained by the good graces of fellow Forumites. Including a beautiful machined aluminum panel and cap for the Vintage Air that I had
polished and anodized black.

When I pull the motor, I'll install that and re-route the a/c and heater hoses.

Also, I wish I had moved the engine-side firewall fuse block plugs into the cab. As you see it now, the M & H wire harness for the engine is routed from
the battery side; down next to the battery and along the bottom of the radiator core support, then inside the driver's fender "void", and plugs into the engine
side of the fuse block. You can see I sent the wires from the top engine side fuse plug that feeds the the starter and HEI, back into the cab and then had them
exit in lesser-seen firewall points closer to their points of use.

I use the window washers. So, I plumbed the washer bottle hose thru the same driver's fender "void" and back into the cab, and attached it to the washer pump
under the dash (near the radio). The hoses for the washer "sprayers" now go up through the bottom of the body under the cowl. That way, I could plug the washer
hose holes in the upper fire wall. Although I used good grommets for this install, I put a solid sheet metal under the cowl....don't need the outside air...Vintage Air
and windows take care of that.

Like I said, I wish I had done more while all the stuff was more "reachable".
Now, I'm simply too lazy to do any more until the engine is out for a freshen-up.

I bet a bunch of folks will chime in that have done stellar jobs of hiding or shaving or sweet, clean stock placements. These guys are really good. Some complete
customs under the hood blow my mind.

[C0UCH]

Probably the worst project to take on when trying to relearn how to weld but it's getting there. I cut the firewall off flush with the rearmost section of the original firewall. Passenger side is in place and for the most part welded in. Finishing the driver side hopefully this week, once I get some more wire. I have a Painless harness going in and will install the plug thru the firewall as far under the fender as possible. Aside from that the only other parts going thru the firewall will be the steering column and throttle cable. Brakes will be under the dash.

[killerpanel]

well, I completely cut out the firewall today, stop and get some tin someday this week, and start putting it back together. I am gonna work on hanging the new brake pedal while the firewall is out.

[BurlyCrew]

After shaving firewall and blower motor, anyone ever tried using a 12v electric heater of some sort??

[killerpanel]

They used to make a little 12 volt heater that we plugged into the defroster vents. I used a cigarette lighter plug on it. I took it out when i raced, or it was warm enough. Thats what I plan on doing here.