Setting up new crate engine

[LSUMurse]

I got a new crate engine from Jegs.

They come set at TDC. Shouldn't I be able to put on my harmonic balancer and timing tab, mark them at 0 degrees, and drop in my distributor and use whichever point it's pointing to as #1 spark?

[Husker]

I think you have to pint it towards #1 cylinder then that is #1 plug wire when cap is on.
I have always pointed it at #1 not sure if it would work any other way.
Ron

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by LSUMurse

I got a new crate engine from Jegs.

They come set at TDC. Shouldn't I be able to put on my harmonic balancer and timing tab, mark them at 0 degrees, and drop in my distributor and use whichever point it's pointing to as #1 spark?

Yes, I have done it this way many times. If you are at TDC, drop in the distributor. Wherever the rotor points is #1, then just follow with the rest of the wires in the correct firing order.

[Husker]

Shows how much I know. LOL
Ron

[69SWB4X4]

Make sure you are on the compression stroke or you will be 180* off.

[msgdsrf]

Timing cover is on right. So install the harmonic balancer (it's keyed) and see if she is at TDC. Use an installer or longer threaded bolt not a hammer. You can just drop in the distributor as mentioned, but there is a standard of having #1 at about 4 o'clock. So clock the rotor to about 3 0'clock then install. Verify distributor end play.

[Tx Firefighter]

Jeez fellas, you're only giving part of the story.



There are two TDC events, only one is proper for dropping in distributor and pointing at number one. The other TDC event is for number 6.

You have to make sure you're at number one COMPRESSION before you drop the distributor in. Otherwise, you've got a 50/50 chance of being right.

[LockDoc]

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Be careful here. I'm in the process of bolting the accessories on mine and it is not @ TDC.

LockDoc

[swamp rat]

I would install the balancer, its keyed so not much room for error, not sure i'd trust any company's word about if its at TDC on #1, but if the balancer is marked the timing tab and mark will give you an idea. to be sure I'd pull the driver side valve cover and see if both rockers are level and the valves closed. If you need too pull all the plugs and rotate the engine while watching the rockers on #1, Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust, both rockers should be level with the valve closed. If you end up rotating watch for the #1 intake rocker to drop then come back up, then put your finger over the plug hole and feel the compression as it comes up, then line up the marks, that will get you close enough to install the Distributor. Look at the page link below, scroll down about 3/4 of the page to the V-8 section, Husker is accurate about pointing the rotor toward the #1 cyl, it may not be necessary but hey, i do it by the book.

http://www.mre-books.com/chevy/engin...ing_order.html

[LockDoc]

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Another thing I found out... I had a really nice used harmonic balancer that I wanted to use so I cleaned it up and painted it, slid it on the crank as far as it would go by hand and turned the engine over to TDC (#1 on compression). The timing mark on the balancer did not line up, so I went through the process again. Same thing. After checking with a mechanic friend of mine we finally figured out the balancer was off of an engine that used the 12 o'clock position for timing the engine. (he thought maybe some of the 307 engines)

Just something else to be aware of.

LockDoc

[airdale94]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Another thing I found out... I had a really nice used harmonic balancer that I wanted to use so I cleaned it up and painted it, slid it on the crank as far as it would go by hand and turned the engine over to TDC (#1 on compression). The timing mark on the balancer did not line up, so I went through the process again. Same thing. After checking with a mechanic friend of mine we finally figured out the balancer was off of an engine that used the 12 o'clock position for timing the engine. (he thought maybe some of the 307 engines)LockDoc

I went through this myself. Here's some good info on harmonic balancers SBC.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._TDC_lines_SBC

[Bigdav160]

I always set my balancer to 8º BTDC before setting the distributor. Make sure the slot on the oil pump drive shaft is pointing to cylinder #5 or the distributor will not set all the way down.

Is this an HEI? Take the rotor off and line the points of the magnets and lock the distributor down. The engine should fire right up.

[67ChevyRedneck]

For something as expensive as a crate engine, I would never leave something to chance. Also, since you seem new to this, I'll also recommend that you have a good break in oil that has lots of zinc in it (I'll have to research this myself for when I fire mine) AND make sure you prime the oil system before you even drop the distributor in. You can make your own priming tool out of an old junk distributor or they're less than $20 for one for your drill.

[LSUMurse]

Thanks for all the info and suggestions guys. I'm going to go ahead and get a piston stop, timing tape, and some patience and do it right. Like some have said, there's no reason to leave it to chance and then have to fight with it later.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

For something as expensive as a crate engine, I would never leave something to chance. Also, since you seem new to this, I'll also recommend that you have a good break in oil that has lots of zinc in it (I'll have to research this myself for when I fire mine) AND make sure you prime the oil system before you even drop the distributor in. You can make your own priming tool out of an old junk distributor or they're less than $20 for one for your drill.

It's sold by the General himself at the dealership parts counter or mail order houses. Nothing says "valid warranty" like buying the proper stuff from GM.

I even take pictures of myself putting it in the engine in case there's ever any beef about warranty.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Awesome!

So Kevin, what's your fire up process?

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Awesome!

So Kevin, what's your fire up process?

Personally, I drop in the distributor about 10 degrees before. Then when I start the engine, I ramp it up to 2000-2500 rpm for half an hour. Then shut off and cool down, change oil and begin tuning and driving. Then I change oil again at 500 miles. After that, normal 3k intervals.

There's probably some fellows who take issue with my methods, but they work well for me. I've read pretty much all the usual stuff about break in like most guys and have formed my opinions and methods.

[MusicMan70]

Subscribed; Great Info!

[67ChevyRedneck]

That's pretty much how I've been reading how to do it, it's also very similar to the instructions I got with my rebuilt motor I bought like 12 years ago. I was surprised to find zero info with my crate engine. Just some plastic, paper, and 12 and 2 o'clock timing tabs in a bag. I thought they would at least include a recommended break in procedure...

Also, what's your mixture with the assembly lube? I know rotella is about the only oil left with zinc, and of course the additive, do you add a bottle of the assembly lube to the break in mix?

[Tx Firefighter]

In the picture above, I used Rotella oil obviously. Then a bottle of GM EOS because I believe in it. Plus, a bottle of Comp Cams lube because they won't warranty a cam without using it.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't use the Comp Cams stuff for a normal GM crate engine.

[Longhorn 70]

Firefighter gave a good explanation. I think of it a little different.
An easy way to do this is.....


Put in your oil, break in and connect oil filter.
Use a pump drive tool to spin the oil pump and prime passages.
Remove all spark plugs EXCEPT #1
Us a ½" drive rachet to crank the engine around....You'll feel when #1 is coming up on compression.
Bring it to about 8º to 10º BEFORE Top Dead Center
Drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing about 3 o'clock. It really doesn't matter if it doesn't drop all the way to the oil pump drive.
If the distributor doesn't drop all the way down, just crank the engine 2 full revs to 8º to 10º BEFORE. It will drop.
The rotor should now point about 4 o'clock. It should match where #1 is on the cap.
Install the cap and fire it up and let run at 2000-2500 RPM for 30 mins or so UNLESS you hear weird noises, knocking, see overheating or????